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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
7mm STW
Adding a brake
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<blockquote data-quote="Brewer" data-source="post: 1042973" data-attributes="member: 71923"><p>JE, </p><p> </p><p>I thought after I made my last post that I should have said something about not fighting. this is a friendly conversation as far as I am concerned. </p><p> </p><p>you are correct about the sharpness of a tap and/or drill bit. especially on longer holes, when the hole starts to move at all, it becomes exponential very quickly. however, once you have the hole drilled, reamed or bored, I would find it very hard to believe that if you introduced a tap (dull though it be) into that straight hole , it would want to go anywhere but the path of least resistance, which would be right smack dab in the middle of the hole. </p><p> </p><p>now, having said that. anything that is bigger than 1/2" I cut threads with a boring bar with a threading insert. and I have never had a problem with any of the suppressors that I have made on a .223. even ones that were 9" long. I over size my holes .020" and I rarely notice a point of impact shift of more than 1/2" at 100 yards. and I believe you could contribute most of that to barrel harmonics, not concentricity. </p><p> </p><p>but that is just my experience. I perform all my functions (if possible) when the piece is chucked. I rarely have to dial it in because I turn my outside when its on the rifle and all the inside work is don't during one chucking. </p><p> </p><p>I also either build or buy blanks for breaks, I ream a bigger hole and cut the threads myself so I don't have to deal with a piece that is out of center. </p><p> </p><p>of course, most factory barrels are out of center somewhere in the neighborhood of 5 to 15 thousandths. so making them look good on the outside is a little tricky I either have to get the outside of the barrel fudged to center or fudge your break to the barrel. </p><p> </p><p>Id be interested in hearing how you do this with factory barrels because it seems like there has to be a better way. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Brewer, post: 1042973, member: 71923"] JE, I thought after I made my last post that I should have said something about not fighting. this is a friendly conversation as far as I am concerned. you are correct about the sharpness of a tap and/or drill bit. especially on longer holes, when the hole starts to move at all, it becomes exponential very quickly. however, once you have the hole drilled, reamed or bored, I would find it very hard to believe that if you introduced a tap (dull though it be) into that straight hole , it would want to go anywhere but the path of least resistance, which would be right smack dab in the middle of the hole. now, having said that. anything that is bigger than 1/2" I cut threads with a boring bar with a threading insert. and I have never had a problem with any of the suppressors that I have made on a .223. even ones that were 9" long. I over size my holes .020" and I rarely notice a point of impact shift of more than 1/2" at 100 yards. and I believe you could contribute most of that to barrel harmonics, not concentricity. but that is just my experience. I perform all my functions (if possible) when the piece is chucked. I rarely have to dial it in because I turn my outside when its on the rifle and all the inside work is don't during one chucking. I also either build or buy blanks for breaks, I ream a bigger hole and cut the threads myself so I don't have to deal with a piece that is out of center. of course, most factory barrels are out of center somewhere in the neighborhood of 5 to 15 thousandths. so making them look good on the outside is a little tricky I either have to get the outside of the barrel fudged to center or fudge your break to the barrel. Id be interested in hearing how you do this with factory barrels because it seems like there has to be a better way. :) [/QUOTE]
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7mm STW
Adding a brake
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