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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
7mm STW
Adding a brake
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<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 1042946" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>Thanks'</p><p></p><p>Again , not to start an argument but Taps tend to find there comfort zone and may /can Move off center because of the sharpening. (All teeth are not as sharp as others on the same taps just like chamber reamers rarely cut the same from one flute to the next.</p><p></p><p>Even if they are chucked up in the tail stock they can/will move off center sometimes.</p><p>Drills can/do move of center also even though they are chucked up there is enough flex in </p><p>the bit to allow it to move off center. </p><p></p><p>One of the main problems I find with taps is the tendency to taper the threads based on wear(The more a tap is used the more it wears on the front because the front is where most of the cutting is done) so the taped hole ends up tapered just enough to make a quality fitting thread get tighter as it is made up.</p><p></p><p>I have bought muzzle brakes that were tapped and had to custom fit the brake to the barrel tenon </p><p>to get the proper fit. I have not found this to be the case when a thread mill was used on the muzzle brake.</p><p></p><p>Again, I am not comfortable with taps and dies for any gun work (Just me Maybe) except maybe scope/site mounting holes.</p><p></p><p>Thanks </p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p> </p><p></p><p>Cutting threads with the single point tool in a lathe is still the best and most accurate method In </p><p>My opinion</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 1042946, member: 2736"] Thanks' Again , not to start an argument but Taps tend to find there comfort zone and may /can Move off center because of the sharpening. (All teeth are not as sharp as others on the same taps just like chamber reamers rarely cut the same from one flute to the next. Even if they are chucked up in the tail stock they can/will move off center sometimes. Drills can/do move of center also even though they are chucked up there is enough flex in the bit to allow it to move off center. One of the main problems I find with taps is the tendency to taper the threads based on wear(The more a tap is used the more it wears on the front because the front is where most of the cutting is done) so the taped hole ends up tapered just enough to make a quality fitting thread get tighter as it is made up. I have bought muzzle brakes that were tapped and had to custom fit the brake to the barrel tenon to get the proper fit. I have not found this to be the case when a thread mill was used on the muzzle brake. Again, I am not comfortable with taps and dies for any gun work (Just me Maybe) except maybe scope/site mounting holes. Thanks J E CUSTOM Cutting threads with the single point tool in a lathe is still the best and most accurate method In My opinion [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
7mm STW
Adding a brake
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