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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
action truing
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<blockquote data-quote="Kevin Cram" data-source="post: 1343839" data-attributes="member: 2215"><p>When I blueprint a Remington action I'm charging for everything that needs to be done. There are plenty of extras you can have done to make the Remington work even better though. For example I'm squaring up the receiver face and internal locking lugs with a single point boring bar perfectly perpendicular to the center line of the receiver. I'm then single point boring the tops of the threads until I get a 100% clean up. I then single point re-cut the receiver threads for a 100% clean up and a match up to the correct amount of oversize of the bore. All of this is done in one single set up. On average most Remington actions receiver face and internal locking lugs are out .002" - .003". The threads are typically the worst with on average I need to bore and re-cut the threads .020" oversize. I've had some as little as .005" and some over .040" out. I also include a new recoil lug that we mfg. in house ( similar to a Holland ) and is double disc ground to within .0002" of parallelism and I bore out the hole the appropriate amount for however much the threads are oversized. The Remington bolts can be frustrating as I have yet to ever find a factory bolt that is truly round and straight. They usually are .001" - .004" out of round and have a slight curvature to them. I've found the best way to get the bolt face and backside of bolt lugs square is holding the bolt in a Labounty bolt fixture and dial it in true while splitting the difference for any out of roundness. I made up a special carbide boring bar to allow me to re-cut the bolt face and leave the factory extractor in place while fully cleaning up the bolt face. For this I charge $250 and is the minimum that needs to be done. </p><p> I also offer re-timing and tig welding the handle for proper cam performance. Re-timing the cocking piece for smoother roll over and firing pin fall. Bushing the firing pin hole for minimum clearance around the firing pin and eliminates cratering of the primer. A new aftermarket firing pin assembly is another good upgrade but not always necessary depending on how far into a Remington action you want to get. To get everything done to bring a Remington up to it's peak performance you'll end up sinking about $600 into it plus the cost of your action. Your not far from the cost of a good custom action at this point with all these issues corrected from the get go. I still do a lot of Remington action blueprints but occasionally sometimes it's just financially better to go custom. </p><p> Here's a link to a youtube video I did on my process of blueprinting an action to see what all goes into having it done.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?fr=yhs-adk-adk_sbnt&hsimp=yhs-adk_sbnt&hspart=adk&p=Remington+action+blueprint#id=3&vid=59c45dba9674b7ffdda518459a2fba44&action=click" target="_blank">https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?fr=yhs-adk-adk_sbnt&hsimp=yhs-adk_sbnt&hspart=adk&p=Remington+action+blueprint#id=3&vid=59c45dba9674b7ffdda518459a2fba44&action=click</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Kevin Cram, post: 1343839, member: 2215"] When I blueprint a Remington action I'm charging for everything that needs to be done. There are plenty of extras you can have done to make the Remington work even better though. For example I'm squaring up the receiver face and internal locking lugs with a single point boring bar perfectly perpendicular to the center line of the receiver. I'm then single point boring the tops of the threads until I get a 100% clean up. I then single point re-cut the receiver threads for a 100% clean up and a match up to the correct amount of oversize of the bore. All of this is done in one single set up. On average most Remington actions receiver face and internal locking lugs are out .002" - .003". The threads are typically the worst with on average I need to bore and re-cut the threads .020" oversize. I've had some as little as .005" and some over .040" out. I also include a new recoil lug that we mfg. in house ( similar to a Holland ) and is double disc ground to within .0002" of parallelism and I bore out the hole the appropriate amount for however much the threads are oversized. The Remington bolts can be frustrating as I have yet to ever find a factory bolt that is truly round and straight. They usually are .001" - .004" out of round and have a slight curvature to them. I've found the best way to get the bolt face and backside of bolt lugs square is holding the bolt in a Labounty bolt fixture and dial it in true while splitting the difference for any out of roundness. I made up a special carbide boring bar to allow me to re-cut the bolt face and leave the factory extractor in place while fully cleaning up the bolt face. For this I charge $250 and is the minimum that needs to be done. I also offer re-timing and tig welding the handle for proper cam performance. Re-timing the cocking piece for smoother roll over and firing pin fall. Bushing the firing pin hole for minimum clearance around the firing pin and eliminates cratering of the primer. A new aftermarket firing pin assembly is another good upgrade but not always necessary depending on how far into a Remington action you want to get. To get everything done to bring a Remington up to it's peak performance you'll end up sinking about $600 into it plus the cost of your action. Your not far from the cost of a good custom action at this point with all these issues corrected from the get go. I still do a lot of Remington action blueprints but occasionally sometimes it's just financially better to go custom. Here's a link to a youtube video I did on my process of blueprinting an action to see what all goes into having it done. [URL]https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?fr=yhs-adk-adk_sbnt&hsimp=yhs-adk_sbnt&hspart=adk&p=Remington+action+blueprint#id=3&vid=59c45dba9674b7ffdda518459a2fba44&action=click[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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