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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
AR15/10 Rifles
Accuracy build help
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<blockquote data-quote="budlight" data-source="post: 2974884" data-attributes="member: 2939"><p>Yes that brass slug is a great fix for short gas tubes like carbine and mid length that cause the bolt to beat the cud out of the buffer tube weights. The real fix is to not create the higher pressure in the first place by having smaller diameter gas ports and or longer gas tubes.</p><p></p><p>I use the lightest standard buffer tube weights (sub 3 oz) and messed with even taking weights out. Not the H1 or heavier buffer tube weights.</p><p></p><p>Another thing I played with was the diameter of the hole on the back of the buffer tube. I reasoned that they are cheap, so I drilled the hole bigger. Bigger hole is less air compression resistance to the buffer weights travel back and less resistance to it cycling forward. I also played with springs and spring lengths. The silent flat wound are the best.</p><p></p><p>ARlife4me did some posts about what is the correct diameter for the gas hole. All my barrels were made with tiny holes down in the .068 - .070 not the monster .090 So I did some research and then thought over about what I'm doing different. The big thing is that I reload to .556 and above to the @60,000 psi level. I never shoot off the shelf 223. If I put in some cheap round from say Scheels I would have ejection problems from being way under gassed.</p><p></p><p>My advice is to reload to 556 pressure levels, buy barrels with the smallest gas tube hole diameter, and use the longest gas tubes. I've had to call the barrel manufactures and have them drill the smaller holes out at rifle length and +2 inches. I have never had to drill the hole bigger and my only adjustable gas blocks rifles are my piston guns.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="budlight, post: 2974884, member: 2939"] Yes that brass slug is a great fix for short gas tubes like carbine and mid length that cause the bolt to beat the cud out of the buffer tube weights. The real fix is to not create the higher pressure in the first place by having smaller diameter gas ports and or longer gas tubes. I use the lightest standard buffer tube weights (sub 3 oz) and messed with even taking weights out. Not the H1 or heavier buffer tube weights. Another thing I played with was the diameter of the hole on the back of the buffer tube. I reasoned that they are cheap, so I drilled the hole bigger. Bigger hole is less air compression resistance to the buffer weights travel back and less resistance to it cycling forward. I also played with springs and spring lengths. The silent flat wound are the best. ARlife4me did some posts about what is the correct diameter for the gas hole. All my barrels were made with tiny holes down in the .068 - .070 not the monster .090 So I did some research and then thought over about what I'm doing different. The big thing is that I reload to .556 and above to the @60,000 psi level. I never shoot off the shelf 223. If I put in some cheap round from say Scheels I would have ejection problems from being way under gassed. My advice is to reload to 556 pressure levels, buy barrels with the smallest gas tube hole diameter, and use the longest gas tubes. I've had to call the barrel manufactures and have them drill the smaller holes out at rifle length and +2 inches. I have never had to drill the hole bigger and my only adjustable gas blocks rifles are my piston guns. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
AR15/10 Rifles
Accuracy build help
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