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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
7mm STW
7mm STW Reloading Thread
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<blockquote data-quote="dougduey" data-source="post: 2684434" data-attributes="member: 33159"><p>I'm assuming you resize your brass in 2 steps with a body die first, then the neck sizer using a bushing. I bump the shoulder back .002" with a full sizing die. I do have the body die and neck sizer with bushing combo, but have found I get such great results with minimal run out using the FS die, so I rarely do the 2 step method. That being said, the body and NS die will serve you well. </p><p></p><p>Crimp after the bullet is seated Search for ButterBeans post called "why I crimp" and it will answer every and all questions you may have. </p><p></p><p>FYI, Hammers don't mind jump. Most of us who have been loading Hammers for some time, prefer to seat them deeper to the point of the last drive band (towards the tip). The crimp works better into the area between (the "valley") the drive bands.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="dougduey, post: 2684434, member: 33159"] I’m assuming you resize your brass in 2 steps with a body die first, then the neck sizer using a bushing. I bump the shoulder back .002” with a full sizing die. I do have the body die and neck sizer with bushing combo, but have found I get such great results with minimal run out using the FS die, so I rarely do the 2 step method. That being said, the body and NS die will serve you well. Crimp after the bullet is seated Search for ButterBeans post called “why I crimp” and it will answer every and all questions you may have. FYI, Hammers don’t mind jump. Most of us who have been loading Hammers for some time, prefer to seat them deeper to the point of the last drive band (towards the tip). The crimp works better into the area between (the “valley”) the drive bands. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
7mm STW
7mm STW Reloading Thread
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