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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
700 Barrel Removal at Standstill
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<blockquote data-quote="Muddyboots" data-source="post: 2136816" data-attributes="member: 63925"><p>I think I can say we ALL had a terrific journey and I have say even with all the <img class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" alt="🤬" title="Face with symbols on mouth :face_with_symbols_over_mouth:" src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f92c.png" data-shortname=":face_with_symbols_over_mouth:" />set backs it was fun learning experience! The Wheeler with correct diameter blocks, rosin, clean dry barrel and OEM rifle from factory is likely to work fine. But I also learned how to make better oak blocks and use hickory flooring as backing plates to increase compression. A 4' 2x4 oak cost same as replacement oak block so you have way more to work with in a 2x4! I increased the size of the blocks twofold but you need to add in backing plates to give solid compression. PB, Kroil and acetone mixed and injected into first base hole with syringe can help penetrate deeper into threads. The overnight 24 hours in freezer didn't really do anything. Hammers of Thor didn't work even on cheater. Tried heating with heat gun and even with Mapp gas monitoring with an IR scanner to insure the max temp of 350 I wanted wasn't exceeded. Trailer hitch wrench from Walmart for about $15 gives huge torque to Wheeler vise nuts. I even tried CO2 to "freeze" barrel from receiver but that didn't work either. A lot of these steps might break a normal barrel but when Red Loctite is used all bets are off. I thought about using dry ice but did not get into that. Soaked threads vertical muzzle up and receiver up for days on end to no avail. Tried using teak as barrel blocks and they may still be a good option if you have it around. Pretty dense wood! Tried sheetrock tape around barrel but didn't get any help with it. The dang loctite!</p><p></p><p>The real problem is how do you dissolve thread locker on barrel threads torqued into receiver so you can apply enough force to break the adhesion. Heat is probably best solution but I am very conservative applying heat. Because of the thread locker, I just could not get sufficient compression on barrel to hold it tight enough to break the thread locker adhesion. Even in a steel vise with aluminum bushing it took extra torque on the setup to hold barrel to break it free so it was one tough setup!</p><p></p><p>Keep plenty of band aids nearby too, just saying! Then again plenty of top shelf bourbon!! My wife thanked me for increasing her vocabulary she heard coming from basement<img class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" alt="😱" title="Face screaming in fear :scream:" src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f631.png" data-shortname=":scream:" />.</p><p></p><p>BTW the hickory flooring make great reloading blocks using forstner drill bits which leave nice flat bottom to drill hole.</p><p></p><p>Hopefully the thread was at least entertaining if not informative!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Muddyboots, post: 2136816, member: 63925"] I think I can say we ALL had a terrific journey and I have say even with all the 🤬set backs it was fun learning experience! The Wheeler with correct diameter blocks, rosin, clean dry barrel and OEM rifle from factory is likely to work fine. But I also learned how to make better oak blocks and use hickory flooring as backing plates to increase compression. A 4' 2x4 oak cost same as replacement oak block so you have way more to work with in a 2x4! I increased the size of the blocks twofold but you need to add in backing plates to give solid compression. PB, Kroil and acetone mixed and injected into first base hole with syringe can help penetrate deeper into threads. The overnight 24 hours in freezer didn't really do anything. Hammers of Thor didn't work even on cheater. Tried heating with heat gun and even with Mapp gas monitoring with an IR scanner to insure the max temp of 350 I wanted wasn't exceeded. Trailer hitch wrench from Walmart for about $15 gives huge torque to Wheeler vise nuts. I even tried CO2 to "freeze" barrel from receiver but that didn't work either. A lot of these steps might break a normal barrel but when Red Loctite is used all bets are off. I thought about using dry ice but did not get into that. Soaked threads vertical muzzle up and receiver up for days on end to no avail. Tried using teak as barrel blocks and they may still be a good option if you have it around. Pretty dense wood! Tried sheetrock tape around barrel but didn't get any help with it. The dang loctite! The real problem is how do you dissolve thread locker on barrel threads torqued into receiver so you can apply enough force to break the adhesion. Heat is probably best solution but I am very conservative applying heat. Because of the thread locker, I just could not get sufficient compression on barrel to hold it tight enough to break the thread locker adhesion. Even in a steel vise with aluminum bushing it took extra torque on the setup to hold barrel to break it free so it was one tough setup! Keep plenty of band aids nearby too, just saying! Then again plenty of top shelf bourbon!! My wife thanked me for increasing her vocabulary she heard coming from basement😱. BTW the hickory flooring make great reloading blocks using forstner drill bits which leave nice flat bottom to drill hole. Hopefully the thread was at least entertaining if not informative! [/QUOTE]
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700 Barrel Removal at Standstill
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