Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
700 Barrel Removal at Standstill
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Muddyboots" data-source="post: 2134174" data-attributes="member: 63925"><p>1 - It is a factory Remington LR Sendero contour (no flutes) barrel that was a .308Win reamed to 30-06AI by someone else so it is not a "virgin" factory barrel on original action which is causing all the issues. I am trying to remove a barrel that someone else mounted <u>not the factory</u>.</p><p>2 - I can see some seepage of crap coming out of the threads in receiver from the Kroil, PB, acetone injection so that is why I believe thread locker was used which is another reason why this barrel is such a PITA.</p><p>3 - Well aware of heat tempering which is why I use a IR scanner to monitor temps when using heat. I rather doubt most use a IR scanner to monitor heat so accurately. Which is why I stopped at 350F to provide adequate safety margin. I worked with a coal forge in another lifetime so well aware of metallurgy.</p><p>4 - I don't use a hammer to screw in a screw so I am more conservative than most when it comes to hauling off and smacking it with 10 lb sledge. I do use a cheater bar but that is with steady force and not seeing if I can twist the receiver in half.</p><p>5 - I have 12-14 weeks before new barrel arrives so plenty of time to try non destructive means to remove barrel.</p><p>6 - Barrel clamping systems are clearly the heart and soul of any barrel removal. The Wheeler wooden block setup served me well for a lot of barrels but when you run up against one like this one, a more positive barrel clamping system is definitely needed. I would recommend that if you are going to buy a barrel clamping system to consider a more robust steel/aluminum bushing style barrel clamp to insure you have solid barrel retention.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Hopefully this clarifies the facts of the situation and why I am trying different means to remove barrel with standard methods but with added steps like I have been trying. I think what I am doing can help others that somehow find themselves in same position of a stubborn barrel. removal.</p><p></p><p>I am keeping notes so I will post up all the different steps I have tried. If you are a trade gunsmith you won't give one iota about this thread since time is money and the barrel would have been cutoff in a few minutes of failure to remove but if you are like me and time is not a factor it is a challenge and worth doing on your own. </p><p></p><p><u>You cannot learn unless you fail</u> which is predominant reason I am trying every step imaginable.</p><p></p><p>At the end of the day, this barrel will likely be a really good tomato stake for this years garden!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Muddyboots, post: 2134174, member: 63925"] 1 - It is a factory Remington LR Sendero contour (no flutes) barrel that was a .308Win reamed to 30-06AI by someone else so it is not a "virgin" factory barrel on original action which is causing all the issues. I am trying to remove a barrel that someone else mounted [U]not the factory[/U]. 2 - I can see some seepage of crap coming out of the threads in receiver from the Kroil, PB, acetone injection so that is why I believe thread locker was used which is another reason why this barrel is such a PITA. 3 - Well aware of heat tempering which is why I use a IR scanner to monitor temps when using heat. I rather doubt most use a IR scanner to monitor heat so accurately. Which is why I stopped at 350F to provide adequate safety margin. I worked with a coal forge in another lifetime so well aware of metallurgy. 4 - I don't use a hammer to screw in a screw so I am more conservative than most when it comes to hauling off and smacking it with 10 lb sledge. I do use a cheater bar but that is with steady force and not seeing if I can twist the receiver in half. 5 - I have 12-14 weeks before new barrel arrives so plenty of time to try non destructive means to remove barrel. 6 - Barrel clamping systems are clearly the heart and soul of any barrel removal. The Wheeler wooden block setup served me well for a lot of barrels but when you run up against one like this one, a more positive barrel clamping system is definitely needed. I would recommend that if you are going to buy a barrel clamping system to consider a more robust steel/aluminum bushing style barrel clamp to insure you have solid barrel retention. Hopefully this clarifies the facts of the situation and why I am trying different means to remove barrel with standard methods but with added steps like I have been trying. I think what I am doing can help others that somehow find themselves in same position of a stubborn barrel. removal. I am keeping notes so I will post up all the different steps I have tried. If you are a trade gunsmith you won't give one iota about this thread since time is money and the barrel would have been cutoff in a few minutes of failure to remove but if you are like me and time is not a factor it is a challenge and worth doing on your own. [U]You cannot learn unless you fail[/U] which is predominant reason I am trying every step imaginable. At the end of the day, this barrel will likely be a really good tomato stake for this years garden! [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
700 Barrel Removal at Standstill
Top