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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
700 Barrel Removal at Standstill
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<blockquote data-quote="Susquatch" data-source="post: 2133101" data-attributes="member: 31264"><p>OK, thanks for the photos. I use a barrel wrench that is more or less a copy of yours that I made myself based on a design I saw in a gunsmithing book I bought 10 million years ago. The burnishing marks in your wood blocks are a testimony to your efforts....... </p><p></p><p>I use exactly the same wrench (a trailer hitch ball wrench) to tighten my barrel vice. I've never considered a bigger one. That wrench used on those nuts can totally crush the hardest oak block I've ever found.</p><p></p><p>Your action wrench design isn't totally clear to me though. I don't see a bar for it, nor can I see if it uses a screw to engage the front action screw in the action. If it doesn't do that, then I highly recommend adding that feature. But since you have not mentioned it, I assume your action wrench does not slip and all the slippage is in the barrel vice.</p><p></p><p>Earlier in your post, I believe you described the barrel as a Remington sporter. If so, the taper can be a huge issue. For a few factory rifles, with heavily tapered barrel contours, I have had to make special bushings out of epoxy to guarantee a good tight fit. I roughly described that process earlier. It has never failed me yet. (Knock on wood.) </p><p></p><p>That said, there are some actions that are too weak to trust. I never try to use a barrel vice to pull Browning X-Bolt barrels. I chuck them in my lathe and cut the lug out. (as I and others have already suggested in this thread). </p><p></p><p>BTW, I laughed when I saw the horse shoe. But I do think you might need a new one..... I have a son who has a million of them up his xxx. He just pulls one out whenever he gets in trouble.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Susquatch, post: 2133101, member: 31264"] OK, thanks for the photos. I use a barrel wrench that is more or less a copy of yours that I made myself based on a design I saw in a gunsmithing book I bought 10 million years ago. The burnishing marks in your wood blocks are a testimony to your efforts....... I use exactly the same wrench (a trailer hitch ball wrench) to tighten my barrel vice. I've never considered a bigger one. That wrench used on those nuts can totally crush the hardest oak block I've ever found. Your action wrench design isn't totally clear to me though. I don't see a bar for it, nor can I see if it uses a screw to engage the front action screw in the action. If it doesn't do that, then I highly recommend adding that feature. But since you have not mentioned it, I assume your action wrench does not slip and all the slippage is in the barrel vice. Earlier in your post, I believe you described the barrel as a Remington sporter. If so, the taper can be a huge issue. For a few factory rifles, with heavily tapered barrel contours, I have had to make special bushings out of epoxy to guarantee a good tight fit. I roughly described that process earlier. It has never failed me yet. (Knock on wood.) That said, there are some actions that are too weak to trust. I never try to use a barrel vice to pull Browning X-Bolt barrels. I chuck them in my lathe and cut the lug out. (as I and others have already suggested in this thread). BTW, I laughed when I saw the horse shoe. But I do think you might need a new one..... I have a son who has a million of them up his xxx. He just pulls one out whenever he gets in trouble. [/QUOTE]
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700 Barrel Removal at Standstill
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