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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
700 Barrel Removal at Standstill
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<blockquote data-quote="D-mon" data-source="post: 2130745" data-attributes="member: 1523"><p>Kroil is good. But make sure you degrease your action and barrel and the inside of your bushings with acetone before clamping in the wise. </p><p>If you are going to heat something to melt the locktite, heat the barrel Shank rather than the action. You can use an infra red thermometer to check and control the temperature you apply.</p><p>The closest your aluminium bushings are to the dimension of the receiver and the outside profile of the barrel, the less chances of them slipping . Also clamping the barrel as close to the recoil lug as possible is important, less energy applied to the wrench gets dissipated in flexing the barrel.</p><p></p><p>And tikka barrels are easy as to remove ;-)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="D-mon, post: 2130745, member: 1523"] Kroil is good. But make sure you degrease your action and barrel and the inside of your bushings with acetone before clamping in the wise. If you are going to heat something to melt the locktite, heat the barrel Shank rather than the action. You can use an infra red thermometer to check and control the temperature you apply. The closest your aluminium bushings are to the dimension of the receiver and the outside profile of the barrel, the less chances of them slipping . Also clamping the barrel as close to the recoil lug as possible is important, less energy applied to the wrench gets dissipated in flexing the barrel. And tikka barrels are easy as to remove ;-) [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
700 Barrel Removal at Standstill
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