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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
6.5-303 load data
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<blockquote data-quote="Blueflint" data-source="post: 1121058" data-attributes="member: 92275"><p>Up until 2002, I had my own shop and was a full time riflesmith. For me it was just a matter of threading and chambering a barrel blank and I had a set of 25-303 reamers from Clymer (both a case sizer and a finish reamer). </p><p></p><p>I have a nice unfinished project packed away from that time I am thinking about. It is a No.1 Mk.III with the charger bridge removed and it has a No. 1 "Long Lee" bolt mated to it, has the safety mounted on the bolt instead of the receiver. I am thinking about barreling it to either a 25-303 or some sort of 35-303. Originally it was to be a 35-303 using a 35 Remington reamer and a set of dies but still using the rimmed 303 brass. On the back burner but still thinking about it.</p><p></p><p>A no. 4 barrel (or any L.E.) is easy, it has a .997" major thread diameter and is 14 tpi. The shank length is approximately .687" long but measure each receiver as it can be a little different. Measure from the inner collar to the bolt face, hopefully it is in the .064" to .067" range. If less, then cut the chamber until the rim cut increases the appropriate amount . If too long, you can use a different bolt head to make this less or custom machine the shank to make up the difference. Once fitted up, scribe where the extractor goes, remove it and cut it, using a old barrel as a guide. Polish the extractor cut and reinstall and test fit. It is no harder than barreling any other rifle, any competent gunsmith can do one.</p><p></p><p>15 years ago, barrel blanks were a LOT cheaper...good ones. I got away from the industry around 2003 or so then came back a few years ago... so maybe 9 or 10 years away and wow, I was surprised how things changed. I used only Douglass and/or Wilson barrels, most of my work was custom commercial (Remingtons, Winchesters, Savages, etc.) or military mausers but I did a lot of L.E. too. </p><p></p><p>Good luck. Tony</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Blueflint, post: 1121058, member: 92275"] Up until 2002, I had my own shop and was a full time riflesmith. For me it was just a matter of threading and chambering a barrel blank and I had a set of 25-303 reamers from Clymer (both a case sizer and a finish reamer). I have a nice unfinished project packed away from that time I am thinking about. It is a No.1 Mk.III with the charger bridge removed and it has a No. 1 "Long Lee" bolt mated to it, has the safety mounted on the bolt instead of the receiver. I am thinking about barreling it to either a 25-303 or some sort of 35-303. Originally it was to be a 35-303 using a 35 Remington reamer and a set of dies but still using the rimmed 303 brass. On the back burner but still thinking about it. A no. 4 barrel (or any L.E.) is easy, it has a .997" major thread diameter and is 14 tpi. The shank length is approximately .687" long but measure each receiver as it can be a little different. Measure from the inner collar to the bolt face, hopefully it is in the .064" to .067" range. If less, then cut the chamber until the rim cut increases the appropriate amount . If too long, you can use a different bolt head to make this less or custom machine the shank to make up the difference. Once fitted up, scribe where the extractor goes, remove it and cut it, using a old barrel as a guide. Polish the extractor cut and reinstall and test fit. It is no harder than barreling any other rifle, any competent gunsmith can do one. 15 years ago, barrel blanks were a LOT cheaper...good ones. I got away from the industry around 2003 or so then came back a few years ago... so maybe 9 or 10 years away and wow, I was surprised how things changed. I used only Douglass and/or Wilson barrels, most of my work was custom commercial (Remingtons, Winchesters, Savages, etc.) or military mausers but I did a lot of L.E. too. Good luck. Tony [/QUOTE]
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