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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
6.5 143 eld-x
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<blockquote data-quote="coyotezapper" data-source="post: 2514091" data-attributes="member: 20438"><p>Its been awhile since this thread has had any activity. My opinion of these bullets have not changed. They fly great and perform great on game.</p><p></p><p>To address the above questions starting with the 2016 post.</p><p></p><p>The ring left by the seating stem is a common problem and easily fixed. I have seen this from most all die makers but more out of Redding. The fix is to remove the seating stem from the die and chuck it up in a drill. Then put a little lapping compound on the bullet you are using and run the drill on low speed and run the bullet in the stem. It takes no time at all to remove the small burr that is in the seating stem. I have never had any problems with concentricity after doing this step. You would have to really try to screw up the stem to where it would not seat straight. In most cases it actually improves concentricity. </p><p></p><p>Necks can be too clean and this is why I don't wet tumble with stainless pins. When I do seating depth testing I seat everything long and then take my Harrell's press with seating die with me to the range. I noticed that if a few days went by before I went to the range that the bullets would stick or pop once I seated them to the target depth. There is some kind of binding property that happens between the copper and brass and causes this. I don't remember the actual terminology for this but its real. I also found if I didn't address this that weeks later my ES would be higher than when testing right after seating. My first step after dry tumbling the brass is to run a dedicated brush through the neck to knock down / out any loose carbon. I then lube the neck with hBN. I tried quite a few neck lubes but ended up using hBN in alcohol and a qtip. I impact tumble all of my 17 caliber bullets in hBN and I have never had problems with those sticking so rather than adding something new I went with something that was already proven to work.</p><p></p><p>As stated above make sure your seating stem matches the ogive of your bullet. VLD's need a vld seating stem. </p><p></p><p>Now, back on track with the original subject. The ELDX bullets are not perfect but no bullet is. If kept at a good velocity and weight / caliber for game they perform as designed. If you take them out of the good velocity and energy window then not so much.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="coyotezapper, post: 2514091, member: 20438"] Its been awhile since this thread has had any activity. My opinion of these bullets have not changed. They fly great and perform great on game. To address the above questions starting with the 2016 post. The ring left by the seating stem is a common problem and easily fixed. I have seen this from most all die makers but more out of Redding. The fix is to remove the seating stem from the die and chuck it up in a drill. Then put a little lapping compound on the bullet you are using and run the drill on low speed and run the bullet in the stem. It takes no time at all to remove the small burr that is in the seating stem. I have never had any problems with concentricity after doing this step. You would have to really try to screw up the stem to where it would not seat straight. In most cases it actually improves concentricity. Necks can be too clean and this is why I don't wet tumble with stainless pins. When I do seating depth testing I seat everything long and then take my Harrell's press with seating die with me to the range. I noticed that if a few days went by before I went to the range that the bullets would stick or pop once I seated them to the target depth. There is some kind of binding property that happens between the copper and brass and causes this. I don't remember the actual terminology for this but its real. I also found if I didn't address this that weeks later my ES would be higher than when testing right after seating. My first step after dry tumbling the brass is to run a dedicated brush through the neck to knock down / out any loose carbon. I then lube the neck with hBN. I tried quite a few neck lubes but ended up using hBN in alcohol and a qtip. I impact tumble all of my 17 caliber bullets in hBN and I have never had problems with those sticking so rather than adding something new I went with something that was already proven to work. As stated above make sure your seating stem matches the ogive of your bullet. VLD's need a vld seating stem. Now, back on track with the original subject. The ELDX bullets are not perfect but no bullet is. If kept at a good velocity and weight / caliber for game they perform as designed. If you take them out of the good velocity and energy window then not so much. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
6.5 143 eld-x
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