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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
.5moa vs. .25moa elevation adjustment
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<blockquote data-quote="SES50" data-source="post: 190269" data-attributes="member: 7753"><p>You are pretty much building the same rifle I am about to reciever from my gunsmith. This is my second USO scope and I am really happy with my first one but there were somethings on the first one that I would do over. My first one is a 3.8-22 SN3 with a 35mm tube that I put on my 50 BMG. This had the adjustable objective front lens and I did not care for the fact that the buttler creek scope cover was always in a different location as I adjusted for different distances. Plus the scope is close enought to my barrel that if the scope cover is open and I am adjusting the objective, the scope cover sometimes hits the side of the barrel and does not allow me to fully adjust the objective to where I want to go with out removing the buttler creek cover. So this time I ended up going with a SN3 T-Pal in the 3.2-17 so that the front obective would be fixed. </p><p></p><p>The EREK knob is the only way to go. Going with the EREK knob and the .25MOA adjustment it is two full turns for full travel. if you go .5MOA then it is 1 full turn for full travel. I do not feel that the extra full turn is that big of a deal so I went with the .25MOA knob on this scope again. I also went with a 30mm tube on the new scope that I am getting. When talking to the guys at USO the light transmission through the 30mm and the 35mm scope tubes are exactly the same since they use the same internal mechanism. The only thing you gain on the 35mm tube is travel. If you put a 20MOA scope base on your rifle the 30mm tube should get you well over 1000 yards. Plus, this rifle ended up being fairly heavy in my opinion after putting the scope on. The 30mm Tube with the T-Pal option comes out to something like 2.25 lbs for the scope. I figured I did not need the extra weight of going to the 35mm tube and then the added weight in ringes and not really gain anything. The 35mm tube scope looks ok on my 50BMG since it is a pretty substantial rifle. IMHO I think the 35mm Tube would look too big when placed on a standard sized rifle.</p><p></p><p>I do not know where you live but I live in California and when ordering the scope for this rifle I would have had to pay tax on it. I talked to my gunsmith and he said he would order it for me since he lived in Iowa and would not have to pay tax. That save me a bunch of money. Then when he was ordering it he found out he could sign up to be a distributor and he got me another 10% off the price of the scope. So he saved me a bunch more money there. Just an idea for you if you are going to order one while you are having the rifle built.</p><p></p><p>Hope this info helps.</p><p>SES50</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SES50, post: 190269, member: 7753"] You are pretty much building the same rifle I am about to reciever from my gunsmith. This is my second USO scope and I am really happy with my first one but there were somethings on the first one that I would do over. My first one is a 3.8-22 SN3 with a 35mm tube that I put on my 50 BMG. This had the adjustable objective front lens and I did not care for the fact that the buttler creek scope cover was always in a different location as I adjusted for different distances. Plus the scope is close enought to my barrel that if the scope cover is open and I am adjusting the objective, the scope cover sometimes hits the side of the barrel and does not allow me to fully adjust the objective to where I want to go with out removing the buttler creek cover. So this time I ended up going with a SN3 T-Pal in the 3.2-17 so that the front obective would be fixed. The EREK knob is the only way to go. Going with the EREK knob and the .25MOA adjustment it is two full turns for full travel. if you go .5MOA then it is 1 full turn for full travel. I do not feel that the extra full turn is that big of a deal so I went with the .25MOA knob on this scope again. I also went with a 30mm tube on the new scope that I am getting. When talking to the guys at USO the light transmission through the 30mm and the 35mm scope tubes are exactly the same since they use the same internal mechanism. The only thing you gain on the 35mm tube is travel. If you put a 20MOA scope base on your rifle the 30mm tube should get you well over 1000 yards. Plus, this rifle ended up being fairly heavy in my opinion after putting the scope on. The 30mm Tube with the T-Pal option comes out to something like 2.25 lbs for the scope. I figured I did not need the extra weight of going to the 35mm tube and then the added weight in ringes and not really gain anything. The 35mm tube scope looks ok on my 50BMG since it is a pretty substantial rifle. IMHO I think the 35mm Tube would look too big when placed on a standard sized rifle. I do not know where you live but I live in California and when ordering the scope for this rifle I would have had to pay tax on it. I talked to my gunsmith and he said he would order it for me since he lived in Iowa and would not have to pay tax. That save me a bunch of money. Then when he was ordering it he found out he could sign up to be a distributor and he got me another 10% off the price of the scope. So he saved me a bunch more money there. Just an idea for you if you are going to order one while you are having the rifle built. Hope this info helps. SES50 [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
.5moa vs. .25moa elevation adjustment
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