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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
.308 Project -seeking advice-
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<blockquote data-quote="trebark" data-source="post: 411639" data-attributes="member: 19172"><p>First thing....don't worry about ordering the stock. Work out what you want with your gunsmith and have HIM order it. I'm sure that they will give you the military discount although you might have to make a call after your gunsmith orders the stock.</p><p> </p><p></p><p> </p><p>Nomad is right. Length of pull is the distance from buttstock to trigger. Try to find rifles with different LOP and try them all and in different positions (standing, sitting/kneeling, prone). Find a length that works for you.</p><p> </p><p></p><p> </p><p>Again, don't sweat it. Work this detail out with your gunsmith. Generally speaking, the heavier your barrel, the stiffer it will be and the conventional wisdom says it will be more consistant. Of course,the fatter the barrel, the heavier. If you want an all-around rifle, you will want a mid-size barrel. While you're out checking out LOP on rifles, take a look at their barrels. Generally barrels are 1.25" at the action and taper down from there so measure the muzzle diameters. </p><p> </p><p>How barrel contours are described will be different with virtually every barrel company out there. For instance Krieger numbers their's 1 thru 5. I have a Hart that is a #4 Douglas Taper and it is nowhere near what a Krieger #4 is. </p><p> </p><p></p><p> </p><p>Yes. But like I said - don't sweat it. Let your gunsmith order the stock.</p><p> </p><p></p><p> </p><p>You probably are 'standard.' I am 6' 2" with long arms. So my rifles have a fairly long length of pull at 14.5". Most of my buddies in the 5' 10 to 6' range use 13.5 to 13.75.</p><p> </p><p></p><p> </p><p>None of my rifles have detachable magazines and I quite frankly don't know much about them. I do know that my gunsmith really likes the Wyatt's extended box magazines. </p><p> </p><p></p><p> </p><p>Currently I have two rifles. One is my 'carry' rifle. It is chambered in 280Rem and has a 24" #4 douglas taper contour. The barrel is .650" at the muzzle. With the scope the rifle weighs 9lbs.</p><p> </p><p>My other rifle is a 260 and it's my 'sit here and shoot there' rifle. Because I don't have plans to carry it around a lot, the barrel is 28" long and if you start from the action, it has 3" that are 1.25" in diameter, then tapers down to .875" at the muzzle. It also has a McMillan A3 stock. Overall this scope weighs about 14lbs. </p><p> </p><p>My 260 was build from from a Rem700 SPS varmint rifle. The original barrel was factory Remington 26" and had a much quicker taper ending at the muzzle at .820". .820" at the muzzle is what Remington considers a varmint taper.</p><p> </p><p>So as you can see, it depends on what you want as to the taper you choose. Given that you want an all-around rifle, you will probably want a taper that falls somewhere between my two barrels.</p><p> </p><p>As an FYI...just to keep the conversation lively, none of this begins to discuss the various types of fluting you can have cut into your barrel.</p><p> </p><p>To give you some ideas about barrel contours....</p><p> </p><p>Here's a link to my 280...</p><p> </p><p><a href="http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-280-updated-32771/" target="_blank">http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-280-updated-32771/</a></p><p> </p><p>and a link to my other rifle when it was a 308....</p><p> </p><p><a href="http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-280-updated-32771/" target="_blank">http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-280-updated-32771/</a></p><p> </p><p>Finally, just for fun, here's a link to my nephew's rifle that wears a factory barrel from Remington. The barrel is their 'standard' and it is .657" at the muzzle.</p><p> </p><p><a href="http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/nephews-transformed-rifle-53634/" target="_blank">http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/nephews-transformed-rifle-53634/</a></p><p> </p><p>Also, to get a sense of what others have done in terms of barrel contour, check out the Gun Photos section and you will see/get lots of ideas for your rifle build.</p><p> </p><p>Keep the questions coming.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="trebark, post: 411639, member: 19172"] First thing....don't worry about ordering the stock. Work out what you want with your gunsmith and have HIM order it. I'm sure that they will give you the military discount although you might have to make a call after your gunsmith orders the stock. Nomad is right. Length of pull is the distance from buttstock to trigger. Try to find rifles with different LOP and try them all and in different positions (standing, sitting/kneeling, prone). Find a length that works for you. Again, don't sweat it. Work this detail out with your gunsmith. Generally speaking, the heavier your barrel, the stiffer it will be and the conventional wisdom says it will be more consistant. Of course,the fatter the barrel, the heavier. If you want an all-around rifle, you will want a mid-size barrel. While you're out checking out LOP on rifles, take a look at their barrels. Generally barrels are 1.25" at the action and taper down from there so measure the muzzle diameters. How barrel contours are described will be different with virtually every barrel company out there. For instance Krieger numbers their's 1 thru 5. I have a Hart that is a #4 Douglas Taper and it is nowhere near what a Krieger #4 is. Yes. But like I said - don't sweat it. Let your gunsmith order the stock. You probably are 'standard.' I am 6' 2" with long arms. So my rifles have a fairly long length of pull at 14.5". Most of my buddies in the 5' 10 to 6' range use 13.5 to 13.75. None of my rifles have detachable magazines and I quite frankly don't know much about them. I do know that my gunsmith really likes the Wyatt's extended box magazines. Currently I have two rifles. One is my 'carry' rifle. It is chambered in 280Rem and has a 24" #4 douglas taper contour. The barrel is .650" at the muzzle. With the scope the rifle weighs 9lbs. My other rifle is a 260 and it's my 'sit here and shoot there' rifle. Because I don't have plans to carry it around a lot, the barrel is 28" long and if you start from the action, it has 3" that are 1.25" in diameter, then tapers down to .875" at the muzzle. It also has a McMillan A3 stock. Overall this scope weighs about 14lbs. My 260 was build from from a Rem700 SPS varmint rifle. The original barrel was factory Remington 26" and had a much quicker taper ending at the muzzle at .820". .820" at the muzzle is what Remington considers a varmint taper. So as you can see, it depends on what you want as to the taper you choose. Given that you want an all-around rifle, you will probably want a taper that falls somewhere between my two barrels. As an FYI...just to keep the conversation lively, none of this begins to discuss the various types of fluting you can have cut into your barrel. To give you some ideas about barrel contours.... Here's a link to my 280... [URL]http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-280-updated-32771/[/URL] and a link to my other rifle when it was a 308.... [URL]http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-280-updated-32771/[/URL] Finally, just for fun, here's a link to my nephew's rifle that wears a factory barrel from Remington. The barrel is their 'standard' and it is .657" at the muzzle. [URL]http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/nephews-transformed-rifle-53634/[/URL] Also, to get a sense of what others have done in terms of barrel contour, check out the Gun Photos section and you will see/get lots of ideas for your rifle build. Keep the questions coming. [/QUOTE]
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