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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
300 WM Dies/Brass Prep
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<blockquote data-quote="Lenny Foffa" data-source="post: 2960921" data-attributes="member: 100742"><p>I love to hand load and look for reasons why I need more 'Stuff" !!! I think I need all that for competitive shooting. Who Knows for sure. I have talked to champion best rest shooters that say ,as an example , they NEVER anneal the brass. I bought case neck turning tool because I was sure it was necessary , only to learn there is so much clearance in that aera of my hunting rifles, it would just be a waist of time. Here what Little I know. Keep it simple when it relates to off the shelf Hunting Rifles and Hunting loads. The Reloading Manuales will take you step by step. I separate cases by weight, my 270 Win Brass is in 10 or 12 little blue plastic boxes that say . 270 Win. case Wt 186.0 to 186.4 Grn . ; the 186 .5 to 186.9!! Is that necessary, most likely No, but its all done so Ill never have to do it again. If I buy a new bag of brass, I just line up the blue boxes and add a case to the correct box. !!I test my CBTO 3.340; 3.343 ;3.45; ect ect. If you believe the targets, no real world difference for a hunting rifle and Hunting Load. I find the best way for ( ME) to become accurate with any load is to Shoot and shoot and shoot. Example ; I've been using 59.5 grns of H 4831 with a 130 grn. Nosler Ballistic Tip and Win primers for several years now. I have saved and dated every target in 3 ring Binders. 3017 to 3028 FPS Muzz vel. lab radar says . I have shot several 3 shot groups at 100 and 200 yards that are really excellent, and with the same loads shot some that looks like I shot the paper with a shotgun. Find the Load your rifle likes, and make those , and shoot those a lot , while you take other cases and slightly "tune " that load to see if you are making that load more accurate. If not ,stay with the load you are pleased with. When I can make bullet holes touch and shoot sub MOA at 100 ,200 and 300 yards, That , (to me ) is good hunting load. <strong>Now its up to me</strong> <strong>to maintain that level of accuracy, by shooting that rifle, with that load , a lot.</strong> <em>It is</em> <em>NOT a sin to find a really great load, that works terrific on deer, and stay with it. </em>It doesn't have to be complicated. last point. I've been making 06 loads for friends rifle, 165 Grn SST at 2700 fps. I Matched cases , CBTO measure and all made identical, Tested 4 different COAL's Finally got 3 shots extremely tight ,at both 50 and 100 yards, He hands me a box of Inexpensive Norma ammo ( $28.95 ) 165 grn, and ist same thing, ONE RAGGED HOLE at 100 yards. BUT the Norma factory ammo shot to the Middle of the Bullseye , my load shot at the right edge of the bullseye. So he says to me "the factory ammo is" better" than mine . What the hell am I going nuts for??? Next year Ill just give him the 28 bucks and tell him to go get the better ammo. Keep it simple buddy</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lenny Foffa, post: 2960921, member: 100742"] I love to hand load and look for reasons why I need more 'Stuff" !!! I think I need all that for competitive shooting. Who Knows for sure. I have talked to champion best rest shooters that say ,as an example , they NEVER anneal the brass. I bought case neck turning tool because I was sure it was necessary , only to learn there is so much clearance in that aera of my hunting rifles, it would just be a waist of time. Here what Little I know. Keep it simple when it relates to off the shelf Hunting Rifles and Hunting loads. The Reloading Manuales will take you step by step. I separate cases by weight, my 270 Win Brass is in 10 or 12 little blue plastic boxes that say . 270 Win. case Wt 186.0 to 186.4 Grn . ; the 186 .5 to 186.9!! Is that necessary, most likely No, but its all done so Ill never have to do it again. If I buy a new bag of brass, I just line up the blue boxes and add a case to the correct box. !!I test my CBTO 3.340; 3.343 ;3.45; ect ect. If you believe the targets, no real world difference for a hunting rifle and Hunting Load. I find the best way for ( ME) to become accurate with any load is to Shoot and shoot and shoot. Example ; I've been using 59.5 grns of H 4831 with a 130 grn. Nosler Ballistic Tip and Win primers for several years now. I have saved and dated every target in 3 ring Binders. 3017 to 3028 FPS Muzz vel. lab radar says . I have shot several 3 shot groups at 100 and 200 yards that are really excellent, and with the same loads shot some that looks like I shot the paper with a shotgun. Find the Load your rifle likes, and make those , and shoot those a lot , while you take other cases and slightly "tune " that load to see if you are making that load more accurate. If not ,stay with the load you are pleased with. When I can make bullet holes touch and shoot sub MOA at 100 ,200 and 300 yards, That , (to me ) is good hunting load. [B]Now its up to me[/B] [B]to maintain that level of accuracy, by shooting that rifle, with that load , a lot.[/B] [I]It is[/I] [I]NOT a sin to find a really great load, that works terrific on deer, and stay with it. [/I]It doesn't have to be complicated. last point. I've been making 06 loads for friends rifle, 165 Grn SST at 2700 fps. I Matched cases , CBTO measure and all made identical, Tested 4 different COAL's Finally got 3 shots extremely tight ,at both 50 and 100 yards, He hands me a box of Inexpensive Norma ammo ( $28.95 ) 165 grn, and ist same thing, ONE RAGGED HOLE at 100 yards. BUT the Norma factory ammo shot to the Middle of the Bullseye , my load shot at the right edge of the bullseye. So he says to me "the factory ammo is" better" than mine . What the hell am I going nuts for??? Next year Ill just give him the 28 bucks and tell him to go get the better ammo. Keep it simple buddy [/QUOTE]
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300 WM Dies/Brass Prep
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