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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
300 Norma vs 300 Norma Imp
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<blockquote data-quote="Gamesniper19" data-source="post: 2281395" data-attributes="member: 95013"><p>Yeah it is a personal thing and I hear you. I guess for me it is around the word "better" and how much you tune. I would say for 97% of shooters who aren't competing, getting a rifle to shoot sub 1/2 min is completely fine. Yes, 1/4 or 1/5 min is better but IME and IMO that same 97% of shooters aren't capable of shooting consistent 1/4 min groups.</p><p></p><p>In my learning:</p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Different barrels mature differently, especially during the first 100 rounds. Some are mature in 30 and some take 80 +/-. Recommend that a new loader find a bbl manufacturer they like, stick with them to help with consistency in gauging maturity. They can also use your chrono to help with knowing - a mature bbl will many times pick up 10-20 fps (caliber dependent). A bore scope might help too but in a brand new well made bbl, most folks may not be able to see what matters</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Personally I have found in shooting a ladder, there has been very little difference in 1x fired brass -v- 3x fired brass in accuracy UNLESS i am going a complete wildcat like the 7-300NMi. 300 win mag and 6.5 CM wont make a significant difference</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">If your dies are off the shelf, which most are outside 100% wildcats, fire-forming to your chamber which was cut with who knows what reamer specs (for most guys with OTC calibers), may not be identical and you could be changing a small parameter when you bump it back - even more variance if you size full length -v- shoulder size. So fire-forming OTC brass to OTC specs may break your chamber-formed bras spec anyway. If you build a wildcat, send your reamer print to your die maker. Have them get it as close as humanly possible and stay within that spec</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Another way to help is to ask your smith for the print itself - that way you can engineer your brass to the chamber via the print. It will give you a great trim length and resizing bump to start with - you can always go up or down a thou or two once you shoot and get your results but you will be much better off from the start</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">If you buy a 300WM, 6.5CM or other well known mature cartridge, it is likely wont need as much baby sitting. If you get high quality brass and you have a high quality chamber and bbl, achieving sub 1/2 min accuracy should also be less time consuming and easier to achieve through consistent quality control in reloading. Hell I have seen the odd 6.5CM shoot factory under 1/2 min but that was also the day I went and bought a lottery ticket. Nope didn't win - if I had I would be in Africa for 6 months rather than writing this post</li> </ul><p></p><p>I am sure there is a ton more to say but I am not sure anyone want to read a 3 page document so I went with top of mind, especially at 730 in the morning with an old brain and only 1 cup of coffee so far LOL</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Gamesniper19, post: 2281395, member: 95013"] Yeah it is a personal thing and I hear you. I guess for me it is around the word "better" and how much you tune. I would say for 97% of shooters who aren't competing, getting a rifle to shoot sub 1/2 min is completely fine. Yes, 1/4 or 1/5 min is better but IME and IMO that same 97% of shooters aren't capable of shooting consistent 1/4 min groups. In my learning: [LIST] [*]Different barrels mature differently, especially during the first 100 rounds. Some are mature in 30 and some take 80 +/-. Recommend that a new loader find a bbl manufacturer they like, stick with them to help with consistency in gauging maturity. They can also use your chrono to help with knowing - a mature bbl will many times pick up 10-20 fps (caliber dependent). A bore scope might help too but in a brand new well made bbl, most folks may not be able to see what matters [*]Personally I have found in shooting a ladder, there has been very little difference in 1x fired brass -v- 3x fired brass in accuracy UNLESS i am going a complete wildcat like the 7-300NMi. 300 win mag and 6.5 CM wont make a significant difference [*]If your dies are off the shelf, which most are outside 100% wildcats, fire-forming to your chamber which was cut with who knows what reamer specs (for most guys with OTC calibers), may not be identical and you could be changing a small parameter when you bump it back - even more variance if you size full length -v- shoulder size. So fire-forming OTC brass to OTC specs may break your chamber-formed bras spec anyway. If you build a wildcat, send your reamer print to your die maker. Have them get it as close as humanly possible and stay within that spec [*]Another way to help is to ask your smith for the print itself - that way you can engineer your brass to the chamber via the print. It will give you a great trim length and resizing bump to start with - you can always go up or down a thou or two once you shoot and get your results but you will be much better off from the start [*]If you buy a 300WM, 6.5CM or other well known mature cartridge, it is likely wont need as much baby sitting. If you get high quality brass and you have a high quality chamber and bbl, achieving sub 1/2 min accuracy should also be less time consuming and easier to achieve through consistent quality control in reloading. Hell I have seen the odd 6.5CM shoot factory under 1/2 min but that was also the day I went and bought a lottery ticket. Nope didn't win - if I had I would be in Africa for 6 months rather than writing this post [/LIST] I am sure there is a ton more to say but I am not sure anyone want to read a 3 page document so I went with top of mind, especially at 730 in the morning with an old brain and only 1 cup of coffee so far LOL [/QUOTE]
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300 Norma vs 300 Norma Imp
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