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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
30 WOLF
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<blockquote data-quote="Guest" data-source="post: 24379"><p>Brent </p><p> </p><p>The bolt ring can not be put on every rifle. Some actions are not straight enough, to straighten them would remove so much metal it would not be practical. I have noticed over the years that the stainless actions in Rem 700 are significantly straighter on average than the non stainless. I believe that these actions are machined first and then heat treated. They all collapse in the same direction related the the ejection port cut out. The bolt on a typical gun is jacked up in the back by the forces of cocking the firing pin spring. You can usually pushdown on the back of the bolt after cocking, and feel the amount of slop, it will spring back. </p><p> </p><p>Nesika has addressed this problem by placing what they call Borden bumps on the shank of the bolt just behind the recoil lugs. I like to true the action by removing material in the back just behind the ejection port cut out to co-axial align the I.d. of this area with the cylinder I.D. in front of the cut out. Then I place a bolt ring of the proper fit on the bolt just in front of the bolt handle. </p><p> </p><p>This has 2 advantages it greatly improves the lug engagement, and it allows the bolt to travel freely when unlocked and pulled back a few mm. </p><p> </p><p>The guys that place a bolt ring up front seem to have trouble with binding in real world hunting conditions, and I don't think it helps much once the rear of the bolt is fitted properly. Target rifles will not suffer from a ring in the front and back, if properly fitted.</p><p> </p><p>Chris, </p><p></p><p>Most guys charge around 90 to 110 dollars, if your action is straight enough to true up for a bolt ring. <img src="http://images/icons/smile.gif" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Guest, post: 24379"] Brent The bolt ring can not be put on every rifle. Some actions are not straight enough, to straighten them would remove so much metal it would not be practical. I have noticed over the years that the stainless actions in Rem 700 are significantly straighter on average than the non stainless. I believe that these actions are machined first and then heat treated. They all collapse in the same direction related the the ejection port cut out. The bolt on a typical gun is jacked up in the back by the forces of cocking the firing pin spring. You can usually pushdown on the back of the bolt after cocking, and feel the amount of slop, it will spring back. Nesika has addressed this problem by placing what they call Borden bumps on the shank of the bolt just behind the recoil lugs. I like to true the action by removing material in the back just behind the ejection port cut out to co-axial align the I.d. of this area with the cylinder I.D. in front of the cut out. Then I place a bolt ring of the proper fit on the bolt just in front of the bolt handle. This has 2 advantages it greatly improves the lug engagement, and it allows the bolt to travel freely when unlocked and pulled back a few mm. The guys that place a bolt ring up front seem to have trouble with binding in real world hunting conditions, and I don't think it helps much once the rear of the bolt is fitted properly. Target rifles will not suffer from a ring in the front and back, if properly fitted. Chris, Most guys charge around 90 to 110 dollars, if your action is straight enough to true up for a bolt ring. [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img] [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
30 WOLF
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