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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
270 SS Build
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<blockquote data-quote="johnlittletree" data-source="post: 1499750" data-attributes="member: 105653"><p>That sounds nice. I have not nitrided a bolt before I have only had barrels nirtrided. With some up coming builds I am going to have the barrel and the receiver both done. Not sure if I would do the bolt. </p><p></p><p>My thoughts are thus when you build a push rod engine you either have hard push-rods and soft guides or hard guides and soft rods but never hard/hard. I could be way off on this but if the bolt is harder than the receiver than you will wear the receiver away instead of wearing the bolt lugs. A bolt is far easier to replace from a wear and tear stand point. The receiver can be re-cut on most actions their is enough meat but finding someone to do it might be hard. This is why a setback on a Mauser is not the end of the world but back when you could by them $25 who would ever pay the machining cost better to part it out and pitch the receiver and get a new one! </p><p></p><p>I am not sure you really gain anything from nitriding the bolt either sense they are not a hi wear item. On the other hand you can double sometimes more than double the life of the barrel. Down side is that when you might think about taking a 1/4-1/2 inch off each end and - and re-crowning/re-chambering years down the road that is not an option on a nitrided barrel. When I was young it was common to take a "shot-out" target gun re-chamber and re-crown the barrel and toss it on a hunting rifle, truck or tractor rifle. Often you could buy such a barrel far cheaper than even a cheap barrel and it was the best hunting rifle you ever owned etc....Once you surface harden anything to that level it is tough on tooling. So you have to pick and chose when it makes sense to do. The receiver though always make sense after it has been trued not before. Just my $.02 though YMMV! </p><p></p><p>I have actually shaped a stock similar to the Manners stock you showed. It is in Walnut though and it is for a truck rifle built on a Mauser. It will be rebarreled in 8mm Mauser in fact NOS M48 barrel. I am going to shorten it and Belgium Blue it when done. My edges are a bit crisper than the Manners. It will have a 3X9 Vari X II or III on it when done. If a friend or relative shows up and wants to go hunting with me they can use it etc. Anything well under 500m and it is just as deadly on an Elk, Black Bear or Deer as a .338 Win Magnum for instance. I seldom take shots further out than that on animals unless I just have great conditions like shooting down with decent light and plenty of grass or crops or large body of water to read the wind. If I am going to miss it is because I did not read the wind well enough 9 out of 10 times. It is also nice to have a beater you can keep in the car or truck just in case! LOL</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="johnlittletree, post: 1499750, member: 105653"] That sounds nice. I have not nitrided a bolt before I have only had barrels nirtrided. With some up coming builds I am going to have the barrel and the receiver both done. Not sure if I would do the bolt. My thoughts are thus when you build a push rod engine you either have hard push-rods and soft guides or hard guides and soft rods but never hard/hard. I could be way off on this but if the bolt is harder than the receiver than you will wear the receiver away instead of wearing the bolt lugs. A bolt is far easier to replace from a wear and tear stand point. The receiver can be re-cut on most actions their is enough meat but finding someone to do it might be hard. This is why a setback on a Mauser is not the end of the world but back when you could by them $25 who would ever pay the machining cost better to part it out and pitch the receiver and get a new one! I am not sure you really gain anything from nitriding the bolt either sense they are not a hi wear item. On the other hand you can double sometimes more than double the life of the barrel. Down side is that when you might think about taking a 1/4-1/2 inch off each end and - and re-crowning/re-chambering years down the road that is not an option on a nitrided barrel. When I was young it was common to take a "shot-out" target gun re-chamber and re-crown the barrel and toss it on a hunting rifle, truck or tractor rifle. Often you could buy such a barrel far cheaper than even a cheap barrel and it was the best hunting rifle you ever owned etc....Once you surface harden anything to that level it is tough on tooling. So you have to pick and chose when it makes sense to do. The receiver though always make sense after it has been trued not before. Just my $.02 though YMMV! I have actually shaped a stock similar to the Manners stock you showed. It is in Walnut though and it is for a truck rifle built on a Mauser. It will be rebarreled in 8mm Mauser in fact NOS M48 barrel. I am going to shorten it and Belgium Blue it when done. My edges are a bit crisper than the Manners. It will have a 3X9 Vari X II or III on it when done. If a friend or relative shows up and wants to go hunting with me they can use it etc. Anything well under 500m and it is just as deadly on an Elk, Black Bear or Deer as a .338 Win Magnum for instance. I seldom take shots further out than that on animals unless I just have great conditions like shooting down with decent light and plenty of grass or crops or large body of water to read the wind. If I am going to miss it is because I did not read the wind well enough 9 out of 10 times. It is also nice to have a beater you can keep in the car or truck just in case! LOL [/QUOTE]
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