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1st elk hunt need rifle advice
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<blockquote data-quote="Locknload" data-source="post: 1593511" data-attributes="member: 20333"><p>Recoil is, like ballistics, a mathematical problem. You increase the velocity, the bullet weight, the powder charge and reduce the rifle weight and you have more recoil. You can reduce the felt recoil by putting a thumb hole stock and a muzzle break on the rifle. If you use an integral break you do not increase weight.</p><p></p><p>We of the SE can have a real problem with the mountains, a lack of our normal oxygen supply. So you need to prepare physically.</p><p></p><p>Every PH or guide will ask you if you own a 30-06 when you ask them about a thin shinned game rifle. Why? Because it really works and ammo is all over the world. It is not exotic, no, but it works. If the 06 is too plane Jane, go to the 300 WM. But, practice, practice with the range reading and scope adjustments for one shot hits. The WM cost to reload is about the same as a 06.</p><p></p><p>Scope, look for a Night Force, you can not hit what you can not see. The scope's power is not near as important as the glass' clarity. A good laser range finder is a must, it should have a setting for rain, fog, under 150 yards, etc. I prefer something that keeps on ticking VS a wonderful warranty in the brush on top of a mountain.</p><p></p><p>If you have a ballistics program and a chrono, set a trajectory program using actual bullet weight, BC and velocity, to 25 yard increments, print a colum, cut it out, then with wide clear tape over, put the table of adjustments on your front bell.</p><p></p><p>Rifle, look at the Montana Rifle Co 1999 action, select a barrel and they will put it together for you. Their 1999 action combines the best attributes of the pre 64 Win and the 98 Mauser, it is a formitable actin, barrel combo. I own three of their 99 actions, one with an MRC barrel and 2 with Lothar Walther barrels.</p><p>Ed</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Locknload, post: 1593511, member: 20333"] Recoil is, like ballistics, a mathematical problem. You increase the velocity, the bullet weight, the powder charge and reduce the rifle weight and you have more recoil. You can reduce the felt recoil by putting a thumb hole stock and a muzzle break on the rifle. If you use an integral break you do not increase weight. We of the SE can have a real problem with the mountains, a lack of our normal oxygen supply. So you need to prepare physically. Every PH or guide will ask you if you own a 30-06 when you ask them about a thin shinned game rifle. Why? Because it really works and ammo is all over the world. It is not exotic, no, but it works. If the 06 is too plane Jane, go to the 300 WM. But, practice, practice with the range reading and scope adjustments for one shot hits. The WM cost to reload is about the same as a 06. Scope, look for a Night Force, you can not hit what you can not see. The scope’s power is not near as important as the glass’ clarity. A good laser range finder is a must, it should have a setting for rain, fog, under 150 yards, etc. I prefer something that keeps on ticking VS a wonderful warranty in the brush on top of a mountain. If you have a ballistics program and a chrono, set a trajectory program using actual bullet weight, BC and velocity, to 25 yard increments, print a colum, cut it out, then with wide clear tape over, put the table of adjustments on your front bell. Rifle, look at the Montana Rifle Co 1999 action, select a barrel and they will put it together for you. Their 1999 action combines the best attributes of the pre 64 Win and the 98 Mauser, it is a formitable actin, barrel combo. I own three of their 99 actions, one with an MRC barrel and 2 with Lothar Walther barrels. Ed [/QUOTE]
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