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Hunting
Long Range Hunting & Shooting
1000 ya hunting/target rifle
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<blockquote data-quote="aburdett" data-source="post: 1422648" data-attributes="member: 105326"><p>Thanks for all the replies and definitely keep them coming lol and yes the rabbit hole is deep ughhhh the reloading equip and tumblers, magneto speed all that is gonna be as much as the gun. </p><p></p><p>I will be bedding the entire action. I am trying to find hornady one shot case line to use as a protector for parts I don't want epoxied. I am assuming I want epoxy aroundthe entiee recoil lug so would material off the bedding block behind it need removing or can it be left alone and just epoxy around? Imo aluminum is soft so I would think epoxy would handle the steel recoil lug better? </p><p></p><p>Another question is does a trigger bed block make sense? It's aboit $30 and fills the trigger space. Also inletting screws for centering? </p><p></p><p>Where my confusing with the bedding block comes in is the fact that regular guns with pillars use that for support and the bed as just that. My gun is a large block and it might not even press on the bed block around the receiver bolts. </p><p></p><p>So I should be ok to basically inlet the sides of the stock to get epoxy there and then skim bed the bottom and up the sides and a 1.5" passed the recoil lug. And wrap with electrical tape? Making sure I use dowels or inletting screws with tape or whatever is required to fill the hole so it's centred?</p><p></p><p>I also have a timney 520ce trigger to go in as it was a good price and I ordered magpul well and 2 clips to get rid of the pesky drop floor. </p><p></p><p>I also am unsure of a quality picatinny rail in steel. So if you guys have some suggestion I'm all ears. And if anyone knows weather the 700 long range comes with 6x48 or 8x40 screws on top I'd appreciate it. I'd assume 6x48. </p><p></p><p>I want to bed everything once and get it over with before the rifle is even fired. I hate doing things twice.</p><p></p><p>Are the heavier bullets recommended with the 9.25" twist?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="aburdett, post: 1422648, member: 105326"] Thanks for all the replies and definitely keep them coming lol and yes the rabbit hole is deep ughhhh the reloading equip and tumblers, magneto speed all that is gonna be as much as the gun. I will be bedding the entire action. I am trying to find hornady one shot case line to use as a protector for parts I don’t want epoxied. I am assuming I want epoxy aroundthe entiee recoil lug so would material off the bedding block behind it need removing or can it be left alone and just epoxy around? Imo aluminum is soft so I would think epoxy would handle the steel recoil lug better? Another question is does a trigger bed block make sense? It’s aboit $30 and fills the trigger space. Also inletting screws for centering? Where my confusing with the bedding block comes in is the fact that regular guns with pillars use that for support and the bed as just that. My gun is a large block and it might not even press on the bed block around the receiver bolts. So I should be ok to basically inlet the sides of the stock to get epoxy there and then skim bed the bottom and up the sides and a 1.5” passed the recoil lug. And wrap with electrical tape? Making sure I use dowels or inletting screws with tape or whatever is required to fill the hole so it’s centred? I also have a timney 520ce trigger to go in as it was a good price and I ordered magpul well and 2 clips to get rid of the pesky drop floor. I also am unsure of a quality picatinny rail in steel. So if you guys have some suggestion I’m all ears. And if anyone knows weather the 700 long range comes with 6x48 or 8x40 screws on top I’d appreciate it. I’d assume 6x48. I want to bed everything once and get it over with before the rifle is even fired. I hate doing things twice. Are the heavier bullets recommended with the 9.25” twist? [/QUOTE]
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