Recent content by Senecahammer554

I actually had a similar experience with a CZ 457 I used to own. Loved the gun, but the minute I screwed on my Dead Air Mask, groups would open up and I'd get those frustrating miscellaneous flyers you mentioned. Take the can off, and it would go back to stacking quarters. Drove me nuts until I...

If you shoot paper or steel as much as you hunt, get the Mil-C. If you're 100% a hunter who never dials or holds for wind, stay with the Mil-R. But based on you saying you love the scope and use it at the range... you already know you want the dot. Just buy the Mil-C.

For a hunting scope, I actually prefer the Trijicon to a razor-sharp, narrow-eyebox scope. The fact that you can get on target fast without your eye being perfectly aligned is a massive advantage when an animal is in front of you. I've missed opportunities with a super tight, precision scope...

It's a tool with a very specific job. If you are a glass and stalk hunter who sets up on a tripod most of the time and just needs a bipod for a final, short, controlled shot on a range where you know the terrain, the weight savings are worth it.

If you can, go to a store and put a Kowa 99 side-by-side with a Swaro 95 at dusk, looking at a dark object (like a brown fence post) 300 yards away. The one that lets you see it first, and see it clearest, is the one you should buy. For my eyes, that was the Swaro.

I switched to the Accu-Tac for my .300 PRC, and honestly? I haven't looked back. The Spec-4 is the one with the little flat feet on the bottom, right? It's an absolute brick shithouse.

Since you've already got the suppressor and you've felt what that 7STW can do to your head, I'd stick with the can and just accept that you have to manage a little more recoil. Your future self and your future hearing will thank you.

For Raynaud's, go with the McMillan Mountain Tracker LR or the Manners LRH-TK, and here's why: they're not just carbon fiber, they're carbon fiber layered in a thick epoxy composite. There's no metal skeleton conducting cold from the action screws to your palm. It's just inert material.

Honestly? I think you had two problems at once. That old ammo was probably degraded, giving you those anemic velocities. Then one round either had a primer pocket that was loose, or the bolt didn't fully close on that cartridge (maybe a piece of debris or a burr), causing the firing pin to hit...

I'm glad you guys finally got some. I know that 2-3 inches might not sound like much to folks in the heavy snow belts, but when you've been staring at bare ground since fall, that's a million-dollar sight.

For what you are describing, I'd strongly suggest looking at the Benro GH2 or the GH5C. I know, I know—they look like video gear, but hear me out. I switched to the Benro GH2 for my heavy rigs, and it was a game-changer. Unlike a camera ball head, which relies on friction from a single knob, a...

Whatever you choose, please ignore the little drywall anchor that came with the $15 Amazon hanger. An elk skull is a 10-15 pound pendulum. If you hit it with a broom, or if you get a minor earthquake, that thing is coming down if it's not in a stud.

Go find a bottle of Evan Williams White Label. It's cheap enough that if you don't love it, you're not out much, and it's good enough that it will likely become your new I miss Early Times remedy. It's the closest thing to that honest, no-nonsense, high-value BiB that we all miss.

The general consensus from guys who run thermals hard is that ATNs are buggy. The menus are slow, the user interface is frustrating, and they have a habit of freezing up or glitching right when you need them most, like when a coyote is at 80 yards and about to bolt. Buying one used for $600...

Yes, you'll almost certainly be able to zero at 100 yards with a 20 MOA rail. You'd have to try pretty hard not to be able to.