Recent content by mountainman

The scopes I would buy would be in this order, Hensoldt,premier,S&B,US optic,Zeiss. If money wasn't a problem then Hensoldt or premier would be my choice but zeiss 6.5-20x50 would work just fine, just a matter of which reticle I needed. But sure would like the Hensoldt or premier.

The last I read in Dec. the Kowa 883 and 884 is the best followed by the zeiss 85 t fl then the pentex 100mm forget the model number then the swarovski 80mm. I bought the zeiss 20-75x85 T FL last january and I really like it and got it new for a steal. If it wasn't for that I would of bought...

From my understanding the Kowa model 884 and 883 ( same scope, one model is angled the other is straight)is the best on the market right now.

Your welcome, I will say though that when I fireform I go as cheap as I can. It's a load I'm not going to use for anything, thats just me. I wont use lead bullets other then in my sharps, just jacketed bullets, the cheapest I can find in any weight, the cheapest primers, not BR's, what ever...

If you were to size down the 300 case to the 7mm case like your asking about it will not have the exact shape of the factory 7mm case but it will chamber. so fireforming( shootform) the case by chambering the sized down, neckeddown case and shoot it to form it to the chamber and factory case...

I've never necked anything up, but I do neckdown 8mm mag brass to 7mm stw and 30.06 to 270. You do need to fireform the cases but do it with a reduced load to keep from over stretching or spliting the necks and to get the right dimensions. If someone gets ahold of my ammo and uses it a 8 mag or...

there's a zeiss victory diavari 4-16 T FL with a rapid z800 reticle on e-bay right now for 2100.00. There's your new scope you wanted.

SD, standard deviation, is a statistical measure of uniformity of your shot string. ( to much math to mess with) ES, Extreme spread of your shot string, high and low velocity spread. example; shot#1 3000 fps shot#2 3015 fps shot#3 3030 fps ES = 30...

check the lenght of your brass, if OK, then drop down .2 grs and try again. If it's pressure your not high by much. I would go down .2 grs at a time. If the bullet is against or close to the rifling back it out a little. Berger bullets like a jump to the rifling, .020 to .080 off the lands isn't...

The zeiss or s&b would be my first choice, but if you can't come up with the extra money then cameralandny have swarovski z6 on closeout right now. I would use talley 2 piece base and rings.

put your fired cases in your trimmer and turn your outside case neck walls down to the same thickness. Make sure you lube the inside of your cases before you resize, should solve your problem. Thats what I do and have no runout problems. Think about this, If you have a runout problem, and you...

personally, I will only go by a reloading manual only. Doesn't matter what brand of brass I use, I'll start low and work my way up looking for pressure signs. Hornady says a 308 ,150gr. using Varget, starting load is 35.9 grs with a max load at 44.9 grs. I would start at 37.0 grs and work my way...

I guess we have it made where I live. Own what you want, and only register it and background check when you buy from a dealer only. Buy or Sell to your buddy or stranger and don't worry about it, no checks. STOP the D#$n anti's. vote REP.

Your problem is lack of lube. I don't like the lubepad on bottleneck cases. I've been useing spraylube since it came out, what 20-25yrs ago and never had any problems at all. Also need to clean your dies for time to time. I load up my loadingblock with cases and spray 4 sides ( quickly) from a...

You could have a broken scope but that's rare for a zeiss but it does happen. I would lean toward Cabelas, take it back and have them check the base, see if its a flat or MOA base, it should be a flat base.I really don't think it's the operator and your groups are very good for a broken scope.I...