Recent content by gr8whyt

I'm getting comfortable with my droid and I bought the Shooter app, so I thought I might give this old thread a bump. Lots of good info here, and they update the app from time-to-time with new features and capabilities. One thing I was noticing was that although they have lots of bullets in...

Ask your smith. What is he looking for? And why? Good reason to spend a little time getting to know him and what he prefers. It's what I'd do. -- gr8whyt

I will respectfully disagree. I'd get a good RCBS kit. Sure I have some things from just about everyone that I've collected over the years, but to get started making safe ammo that goes bang, and kills critters every bit as dead as that spendy stuff in the stores, get a kit and a good manual...

+1 on what J E Custom says for the Remington 700. But if you want a really strong stainless steel controlled round feed action, take a look at the Model 1999 actions from Montana Rifle Company. -- gr8whyt

I love the 25-06AI I had built last winter, and I'm still working on loads for it. I have not shot a factory load through it yet and probably never will. I've been handloading so long, that's the only ammo I use in anything I shoot. If a person does not handload I would recommend avoiding the...

I would have it bushed by a smith you trust. I wouldn't hassle with the factory. Just me. -- gr8whyt

Yep...what BountyHunter said. Also that Rem action will respond nicely to a quality blueprint job as part of the rebarrel. -- gr8whyt

6 gr of 2400 is pretty light. try 7 then 8 gr. This will help clean the CoW out. Hope this helps. -- gr8whyt

I'll play the devils advocate here. There are a couple of reasons you might want the 25-06 instead of the 257 Wby. Cheaper to shoot...Wby brass is damned expensive, and less powder per shot with the 25-06. Less recoil...not much, but some. No messing with the bolt face. With the barrel length...

I just had a 700 rem rebuilt. As part of the blueprinting, my smith spends a bit more time than most in that area. He bores out and threads the firing pin hole, then solders in a threaded bushing. After the bushing is installed the bolt face is re-cut. Next the firing pin hole is re-drilled to a...

No, the leade is straight (no taper) from 2.0488 inch to 2.1388 then begins a taper to 2.3025 inch. This is from the SAAMI drawing here -- gr8whyt

onzah is right. The rifling in the barrel is cut, swaged, or some other method the full length of the barrel at a rate of 1 full turn in 10 inches. Faster twist rates would be 1 in 9 or one in 8. Slower rates would be 1 in 12 or 1 in 14, for example. The chamber is reamed and a very small area...

Hobaugh was a barrel maker/gunsmith of some reputation in Montana (Philipsburg, I believe) in the 50s - 60s. My brother had post 64 mod 70 30-06 re-chambered to 30-338 Win Mag by Mr Hobaugh. I know that doesn't help with your situation, but the name caught my attention. I had not heard that name...

+1 on the false shoulder advice. I've also been loading fireform loads lately for the .25-06 AI. Sounds like yours is a little generous on head space and the firing pin is driving the cases forward so some don't fire. I bought a Redding tapered expander ball to bring the necks up to .270. Then...

Exactly the way I figured it, JE. Thanks for the input. A lot of the barrel makers huff and puff about how this method of rifling or that method is better. But the key to what makes the barrel better is the finish lapping. Oh, and the chamber, throat, and crown are big too. -- gr9whyt