Recent content by dstancu

Those recommendations are all good, however bleach (can be either sodium hypochlorite, or calcium hypochlorite, or peroxides) DO NOT destroy the prions, nor do pure acids... Bleach is great to clean utensiles (knifes included), but so is any decent detergent/soap. I don't think one needs to get...

Hi all, I always liked this forum because I found a relatively high level of knowledge, expertise, and experience for the topics related to shooting (mostly) and hunting (to a certain degree). Of course, I found here and there some opinions that made me scratch my head, but that's ok, this is...

I understand that you want a budget build, but I am not sure why you have to use the 307 action if they don't offer the short action with mag bolt face? Maybe you should look at other makers (either full rifle makers, like Tikka, making amazing actions, or specialized action makers). Using a...

Nowadays a larger gap between the barrel and the stock is preferred, especially for precision shooting, and definitely needed when pre-loading for the shot. The old $1 bill trick no longer cuts it for me. My simple test is if I apply presure, e.g. clamp both the barrel and the end of the stock...

I would respectfully disagree. There is a problem, albeit for just a subset, or a fraction of people handloading. The reason many users of belted cartridges never noticed that they needed to resize the web area of the wall (right above the belt) is simply because their rifles were chambered a...

I bought from darnfineshot, and I can attest thatit's not only legit, but the owner is also customer-oriented, and he answered my questions/comments... He's just not that computer-savvy (reminds me of my father), and he does not even seem to realize that his site kinda sucks. His store stocks...

It works as advertised. I use it for my 300 win mag, and noticed that hornady brass tends to bulge above the belt after 2-3 firings, and then the LW die does the trick really well. Higher quality brass (Peterson, Lapua) tends to be way more stable, and it takes way more firings to develop any...

If you are talking big game, I assume you have a large caliber, the likes of 30-06 or 300 win mag. You have a T3x Superlight, that means in the current configuration it will kick real hard (I have 10+ years experience, when I was younger, with a 300 win mag T3x lite in factory config, and it was...

My first thought is that 0.6 grains interval is too large, hence the possibility to miss the "flat(ter)" portion of the curve. I used 0.2gr intervals for both Hornady ELD-X 143 and Berger EOL 156, and eventually found a couple "flatter" portions each to choose from. The rifles were 2 Tikka T3x...

here's a common powders listing for temperature sensitivity, it's a good start

It is probably the twist rate: if your rifle is 1:11, or possibly even 1:10, the bullet is too long to be stabilized. I had this problem trying to load ELDX 212gr in my Tikka T3x 300 wm super varmint, which had a 1:11 twist rate, and could not tighten the group no matter what I did in my...

I shot a moose bull a few weeks ago at about 130y with Berger 210 VLDH from a 300 win mag. It was quartering away and to the right, I shot just in front of the belly. It dropped instantly, and that was all. When I opened it, it no longer had a heart! Just a sea of blood, small pieces of heart...

I love the heavily tested and true Finnish knives vrom Varusteleka, the "Terävä Jääkäripuukko" of 140mm or 110mm blades. I have quite a few other knives, including high end (e.g. the Swedish Falkniven), but I used/abused the Finish one - it is a true workhorse, definitely not expensive (around...

They do! I have 2 T3x CTR in 6.5 PRC

Same here, I bought a Tikka T3x CTR in 6.5 PRC, used MDT chassis and muzzle brake, and it shoots better than any other rifle I have (among other rifles, I have 6 more Tikkas in different calibers, including a TAC-A1, they all shoot excellent). At 100 meters, many of my 5 groups of the 6.5 PRC...