Recent content by b6graham

jacob bynum demonstrating how incredibly simple this is it doesn't need to be anywhere near as complicated as y'all are making this out to be. not even close. you don't even need wrench flats. just get a cheap *** viper barrel vise. tighten it. and whack it.

QC actions are extremely overrated barrel vice and if you want a torque wrench. add wrench flats to the barrel and you need neither besides that why you would ever want to drill and tap an action is wayyyy beyond me

neck sizing is dumb in the first place. just FL size and poof magic...problems gone forever

size your brass... what can look like pressure with clickers/sticky bolt can easily be brass that isn't getting FL sized enough (see non-OCD alpha brass for tons of examples)

this would be useful info...if you shot the same length bullets together in a separate test to determine if it's the length that produced the flyer or just you/rifle combo i'd also never waste time measuring bullets nor have i seen this flyer issue (nosler RDF don't count) with any number of...

used for about 500 rounds at most. 6mm 5/8 x 24 nitride $130 shipped

zeiss S5

i have a 6.5CM barrel throated for bergers. running hornady factory ammo i was jammed. shot great. but i'd rather shoot bergers

that seems unnecessarily large and heavy and honestly probably not great performing especially for its size

the only time i use a 45 is if the position requires it or really funky ground. normal flat bench/prone i'd never use 45 having the right foot for the surface makes a difference too

loading a bipod is pretty basic unless you have ski feet and a bunny ear rear 'bag' like BR and F Class i don't understand having 100% rigidity

except some 'play' in a bipod isn't a bad thing...

closest you can easily get is a TacOps

.060 off the lands and be done

tikka or a seekins PH2/Element would be my pick from factory options but i'd save a little more and build one first that gives a lot more options down the road. -origin, proof, xlr element magnesium.