Which scope rings and mounts would you use???

Discussion in 'The Basics, Starting Out' started by Dave King, Nov 11, 2001.

  1. Dave King

    Dave King Well-Known Member

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    It's no secret to most folks that follow my posting that I recommend Badger Ordinance rings and bases. There are others in the same category but the Badgers are easy to come by and the quality is great. The bases provide 20 MOA of taper and the rings 'return to zero' on removal and reinstall is very good.

    You can order then from Premier Reticle at 540.868.2044 they'll be in the 225 to 250 U.S.D. range.

    Richard Near and D. D. Ross also make these tactical style setups, Leupold also had the Mark IV series (there is no taper in the Leupold versions).

    The screws torque to 15 inch pounds and the ring attachment bolts are 65 inch pounds.

    They're a little heavier than most hunters use but they are NOT going to slip or get bumped off from rough handling.

    Leveling the reticle, use the little leveler device available from Sinclair International or use the carpenters level on the bases to level the rifle and then place the level on the top turret of the scope upon installation. I don't worry about it too much, I install the scope and rotate the scope so the verticle stadia points to the center of the Rem 700's rear bolt protrusion.
     
  2. Adam Williams

    Adam Williams Member

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    I have a sendero stainless fluted on the way in 300 Ultra. I'll be shooting either 220gr Matchkings or 240 Matchkings which ever is more acurrate from this rifle. I'm just getting into long range shooting and I would like to know what you guys would consider the best bases and rings out there for a potential longe range rifle like this 300 Ultra. Accuracy under recoil and reliability are my #1 concernes. I should mention that the scope is a Leupold Vari XIII 6.5X20X50 with side focus and a 30mm main tube so I'll need 30mm rings. Also what method do you guys use for getting your scopes cross hairs straight (centered with the bore).

    [ 11-11-2001: Message edited by: Mo yote ]
     

  3. Adam Williams

    Adam Williams Member

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    Thanks Dave,
    That's what I was looking for but I have another question. Will I need tapered bases for this set up? I plan on working my way out to only 1000 yards with this particular gun. Will the Leupold have enough elevation adjustment for the 220 Matchkings leaving the muzzle at 3000fps at that distance?

    Mo yote
     
  4. Boyd Heaton

    Boyd Heaton Well-Known Member

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    I have the same gun you have.I am using the same bullet and about the same velocity.I just ran a drop chart for mine today at 2986.The same load in warm weather give's 3026.Anyway I am using a 6.5-20x44 Nikon with Burris Pos Align ring's with .20 insert's.The bases I use are Leoupld dual dove tail.I have been through three of the adjustable rear one's.I am only using 4 click's from the bottom for a 100 yard zero.I have enough click's to get to 1300.I am sure they make them for a 30mm tube.
     
  5. Dave King

    Dave King Well-Known Member

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    Mo Yote

    The Badger Ordnance bases come with 20 MOA of taper, this will be plenty for your setup. Order these through Premier Reticle, an authorized distributor.
    http://www.badgerord.com/catalog/sel6.html

    The Leupold DoveTail system locks into place by twisting the ring into the base, this requires some degree of looseness and therefore movement. This is a good system probably better than the Leupold adjustable rear version but not as tight a system as the afforded by the Picatinny type system used by Badger, Leupold Mark IV, DD Ross and the Near systems. In these systems, the lockup is controlled by a large clamp system that claws onto the rail with rather massive set of clamps. About the only way to 'knock the scope off zero' is to break the screws holding the base to the rifle.

    [ 11-12-2001: Message edited by: Dave King ]
     
  6. Adam Williams

    Adam Williams Member

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    Like I said I'm new to long range shooting. Maybe you guys can explain to me how inserts or tapered rings work to give you more adjustment. I'm intriged by taking game cleanly at 1000 yards and beyond. I have taken game at what most would consider long range but probably not you guys. I took a bull elk last year by holding over at 701yards as measured by my rangefinder. I'll be the first to admit I got real lucky (broke his back on the last round in the gun). I would never have taken that shot if I didn't already have him wounded from shorter shots. I've taken a few deer at close to 500 yards also holding over with flat shooting rifles but I can clearly see that using your techniques I can extend my effective range much further W/O having to guesstimate holdover.
    My rifle of choice for that elk hunt was a remington 700 BDL SS in 300 Ultra mag shooting 180 gr. Partition handloads. This rifle does'nt have the accuracy I will need to extend my range much further so I've ordered the same caliber in a sendero stainless fluted. How far can I expect to be able to take game cleanly with this setup? As I said I'll be shooting 220 or 240 gr. Matchkings. I will primarily be hunting powerlines and bottom hayfields here in Mo. I should mention that I won't be shooting off a portable bench just prone off bipods. I know alot depends on the man on the trigger and while I'm no Darryll Cassel,Dave King, or Len Backus I would consider myself a good shot and dedicated to getting better. So is 1000 yard shots off bipods with this setup feasable if I work up to it or am I dreaming? I know this is getting long but at this point I feel like a sponge and I'm trying to soak up as much info from guys actually in the know rather than making alot of mistakes along the way and wounding game. I better quit now but I'll be back with more questions I'm sure when I get my rifle.

    Mo yote

    [ 11-13-2001: Message edited by: Mo yote ]

    [ 11-13-2001: Message edited by: Mo yote ]
     
  7. Boyd Heaton

    Boyd Heaton Well-Known Member

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    The insert's go between your scope and the mount.If you use the .20 insert's it will raise the rear of the scope .20.The down slope of the scope (back high front low) will cause you to shoot high on the target.A good rule to follow from what I've been told is that .05 is worth 5 inches and .10 is worth 10 inches at 100 yard's.I've been working to get mine where I wanted it for a couple of month's.Four click's from the bottom is close enough for me.Go luck with your gun.And unless you are KING KONG you will need a brake on it.With out one' they are nasty....
     
  8. HoytemanPA

    HoytemanPA Well-Known Member

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    Mo Yote,
    I too am new to the long range game but for what its worth I am exactly at the same point you are. I too just bought the identical scope as you. Using the RCBS ballistics software a 220 matchking at 3000 would require an adjustment of 25.5 inches at 100 yards. The scope we have allows 72" of elevation adjustment. So basically with standard 30mm rings, assuming being in the center of adjustment, You should still have about 10" left to spare. I am personally going to keep the extra hundred bucks in my pocket until the targets prove otherwise.
     
  9. Dan Conzo

    Dan Conzo Well-Known Member

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    On the bases and rings, Bruce Baer makes about the best rings for the picatinny rail I've seen in 30mm with 4 screws per ring. They are really nice, they won't mar your scope and the screws won't strip out like one famous makers will. He also has tapered bases (20 moa).

    Dan
     
  10. HoytemanPA

    HoytemanPA Well-Known Member

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    I'd like to retract my previous post and now I am at the point of being humbled by disregarding you gentlemen's suggestions in an attempt to save a few bucks.
    I finally got to shoot my accumark with the 6-20x50 long range with leupold 2 piece bases with adjustable rear and leupold rings and guess what.
    I was dead wrong in my assumption of "being somewhere in the middle" After zeroing at 100, Out of the initial 72 inches of sight adjustment, I have about 16 left for elevation. It looks like an adjustment of 20 moa will get me at least back into the middle.