What oil is best for inside of barrels after a cleaning?

So for years i have used G96 for long term storage. Besides shooting "a lot", i am also a collector. Every Christmas Holiday season i would take all my rifles out of storage and spray them down with G96. This year i decided to sell 100 rifles. Many of them i had never shot.

2 in particular that had not been shot in 20 years bit sprayed every year with G96. Both were gummed up in the the bolt that they were not working. I had the spray the bolts down with Brake Cleaner.

I discussion with another collector told me he had the same problem and he switched to Birchwood Casey Barricade and that problem went away.

Regular shooters that get cleaned and lubed, G96 is perfect. For collections that don't get shot, i am
Not so sure anymore.

BTW, hunting camp always has a can of G96 to spray down rifles that get rained or snowed on. I love that product.
 
G-96 was originally designed for the Aerospace Industry NASA.
We use it on all our firearms. Comes in Aerosol.
We also use TW25b Synthetic Gun Grease on areas where a lot of metal-to-metal contact.
To Prevent Rust, you have to shoot them often. Lets go to the range... Well, maybe not right now... it's 20 degrees here!
 
A buddy of mine gave me a gallon container of Break-Free CLP. I've been using it for the last 30yrs and it will definitely outlast me. I bought some Hornady One Shot just for the heck of it but I don't see how it would be any better than the CLP.
 
I don't know and don't really care what the "best" is for protection. I will say that Kroil does a good job and generally the first shot is in the group. A number of the others mentioned WILL require several "fouling" shots before the rifle shoots to point of aim again. So, that makes Kroil the best for me.
 
Long term storage, I'd probably go with RIG. But my final step after cleaning, I usually use Qmaxx black or blu . I found this product in the shotgun world, my boys would go through about 25,000 rounds a year and problems like removing plastic from choke tubes and carbon build up in pistons, this stuff was great. Even better, the next cleaning was easier and the water repellency was also great.
 

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5-30, 0-20, etc. etc. motor oil. Not a joke at all. Why waste stupid money when motor oil is designed to withstand 100 times the wear and heat of clp, rem oil, etc. etc. etc.. Bonus is it is 1/1000 of the cost and available all over the world.
Thought I was the only one who used some amsoil 5w50 from my Ford performance cars closet. Lol
Stuff is made to stay on long term and prevent rust. Works great in semi autos also.
 
SHORT TERM:
Bore: Butch's Gun Oil
SS and matte steel: Rust Prevent (penetrates well and dries well without leaving tacky)
Bright blued steel: Boeing T-9
Hoppes gun oil on a rag for all quick touch ups

LONG TERM (yrs):
Bore: RIG
Metal Exterior: Brownells LTS (dries to a hard coat)

I use synthetic oil and grease on bolt and cramming surfaces
I have avoided using synthetics in the bore due to concerns of drying out, and leaving residual particles in the pores of the bores surfaces that will affect accuracy, especially first several shots.
 
Two quick questions:

1. Bore Tech Eliminator and several other products say they will not damage the bore if left in the bore, and will also serve as a rust preventative. I am a little old fashioned, and have always removed it once done and then oiled the bore. Has anyone had any experience with this, and if so, how long will it protect?

2. I clean and oil my rifle bores after every use because I can not be sure how long it will be before they are shot again. However, there has been some discussion about not cleaning the bores for several hundred rounds or until accuracy falls off in some disciplines. In these case, is any bore treatment used — ie. Is the barrel dry patched to remove ash and dirt, and then oiled with a patch to prevent rust, or the bore just left dirty??

Thanks,
Mike D
 
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