Wet tumbling with stainless pins are causing a burr on insidevof my case mouth.
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That's why I chamfer/debur all brass, even virgin brass after running through sizing die.
Alex Wheeler did some significant testing and research with "Wet Tumbling" and stainless pins and came to the conclusion that it's not for him. Was causing too many issues with the "necks" of his brass and consistency. There's a post somewhere in here on it and was very interesting. Personally I just wash my brass in warm dish soap water, then tumble in cob or Walnut shell media and has served me well. My brass doesn't look brand new but it doesn't need to.
ericbc7
Well-Known Member
The easiest way to reduce "peening" of the case mouths is to use more stainless media. If you normally use 5 lbs of pins, try using 10 lbs or more (I think I use about 15 lbs). It won't eliminate the problem but should significantly reduce it. Also fill the tumbler completely (or nearly so) with cleaning solution. Time of tumbling may have some effect also but that for me is the last thing to adjust.
Btw my tumbler is the Frankford arsenal large one.
Btw my tumbler is the Frankford arsenal large one.
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QuietTexan
Well-Known Member
I have gotten neck dings/burrs from wet SS tumbling. I use only pins in one primer size, and shapes mix in the other (can't remember which right now, but IIRC shapes get stuck in SRPs), and they seem to do about the same if I leave the cases in for awhile. Like @ericbc7 i use a lot of media and fill the container completely.
My solution was clean only when necessary, and even then clean as little as possible. Normally I use rice in a vibratory because that seems to be the most mild method I've come across.
I don't. I also don't overly clean brass every firing either, and rarely trim. About the only exception is using a Giraud to trim and chamfer some varmint/benchrest cases at the same time. If a case mouth isn't bent while extracting or doesn't land on concrete, usually they stay in very good shape.
My solution was clean only when necessary, and even then clean as little as possible. Normally I use rice in a vibratory because that seems to be the most mild method I've come across.
I don't. I also don't overly clean brass every firing either, and rarely trim. About the only exception is using a Giraud to trim and chamfer some varmint/benchrest cases at the same time. If a case mouth isn't bent while extracting or doesn't land on concrete, usually they stay in very good shape.Carey Farmer
Well-Known Member
I quit wet tumbling because of the extent of damage to case mouths. I had to take off too much material in subsequent deburring to get rid of the bell shaped damage to case mouths. Now I just I clean cases in a vibratory tumbler with dry medium.
I still touch up the trim, chamfer and deburr with a 3-in-1 carbide cutter every reloading, but need to remove hardly any material.
I still touch up the trim, chamfer and deburr with a 3-in-1 carbide cutter every reloading, but need to remove hardly any material.
leclairk
Member
I used to wet tumble with ss pins. Recently tried Brass Juice with no pins and can say without a doubt they are as clean as tumbling with pins. Won't ever use pins again.
lyle2231
Well-Known Member
Iosso has a process using their brass liquid cleaner as well. Closely follow the instructions. Acceptable results.
You are getting pressure from not lubing your bullets when seating them in brass that has been cleaned with the pins. The bullets can gall to the neck and will increase pressure. I stopped using the wet tumbling with pins a long time ago as there are too many other problems induced from the pins and the brass too clean.
Svashtar
Well-Known Member
I understand and have seen this mentioned online, but I have a ton of range pickup pistol brass, and I definitely use pins with that. Nothing gets that type of brass cleaner. I don't use the FA pins that came with the large FA tumbler, but some better aftermarket ones that are a bit smoother and a fraction longer and I haven't had them get stuck in primer pockets or inside cases. Can't recall the brand. I use a small amount of Armor All Car Wash & Wax and just 1/4 tsp of Lemishine and run them for an hour and they look great. For rifle brass if they've started clean I'll usually just dry tumble in corn cob media with Dillon Rapid Polish. I did have about 600 cases of once fired Lake City M2 ball brass that had been sitting for about 55 years and that definitely got the full wet tumble with pins treatment the first time.
I've seen some shooters online swear that they get better ES and SD performance by dry tumbling only, but I use an expander mandrel (with Redding dry lube if it's a steel mandrel, but not if it's TiNi) after FL sizing, then trim, chamfer, debur, then a case neck brush with dry lube before bullet seating, so cleaning the brass wet or dry doesn't matter to me. Some F-Class guys are using Neolube inside the case neck before bullet seating to minimize seating force, but a dry lube works for me.
For wet tumbling with pins I think the key is not to do it too long. My older FA has a 90 minute max, but the newest version has a "no limit" setting.
I already have enough stuff bought for wet of dry tumbling so buying yet another thing (Brass Juice) when I can make my own solution doesn't appeal to me. I already have some Lyman brass cleaner I made up years ago from concentrate to use with a ultrasonic cleaner if anyone remembers those, but the Armor All Wash & Wax and Lemishine seems to be working great, and a bottle of each will last me the rest of my life.
Svashtar
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't consider lubing the bullets, but the inside of the case. Using Redding dry lube or Neolube works.
QuietTexan
Well-Known Member
Yes. I got a cheap auto-shut off timer that you hit a button for 10-20-30-60m options and it starts a timer:
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