To barrel block or not to barrel block

GJW

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Joined
Nov 22, 2006
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11
ok im using a BAT M 1.55 x 8.5 action, tooley MBR stock, just ordered a 36" Krieger SS 1.450 straight taper to 1.000 at Muzzle, its going to be a (338/416 35 improved) do u think that this barrel would put too much strain on the action free floating it, ive never used or had a barrel block but ive seen a lot and people swear by them! please give me any feedback on the good and the bad, thanks

Greg
 
yes I would block it I have the same action in a Light Gun I shoot 1000 Yard BR and 1 Mile matches with and my barrel is 1.250 taper to .950 and 30" long with no block. I also have a 10x2" Bat with a the barel you are getting but 34" long that started out with out a block and now has a block and shoots better than it did before. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Appreciate the info Crow Mag! any companies or people make quality products that you can give me a few names or just one!?


Greg
 
Now if you want a block you have to decide, steel or aluminum, removable or glue-in, profile, finish and placement. I have been thinking about all that stuff myself and certain smiths prefer certain styles so that will be part of picking builder/block. The 1000 BR smiths are a good place to start. Do you have someone picked to build your rifle? If so they can probably build you the block.
 
Bruce Baer has done a lot of testing on this and determined that a nine inch is the best length. You also do not want a one piece block, go with the split or two piece block. A one piece is a real pain (ie more expensive) to rebarrel

BH
 
yeah Mark King in PA was who I was going to go with, I have seen his work and I like it a lot and he is a nice outgoing guy
 
yeah I was thinking two piece because of rebarreling too, and with all the info I could find most choose the two because of the simple fact its easier
 
are you building a carry type rifle or a bench gun. reason i ask is a 2 pc clamp style is going to be steel and it makes the stock very wide in this section. i've never seen a clamp style used on a hunting gun unless it's a big mo-fo.i built a carry gun with a block this year but i used a 1 piece glue on.in my opinion a block does everything to help the accuracy.
 
its going to be a bench gun only, how hard would you say it is to change barrels with a one piece vs a two piece ??
 
2003 LG winner in Iowa was a self-built ( not me, now) stocker who used a vented 2 pc aluminum barrel block. That design is now under production review by Dave Kiff at Pacific Tool And Gauge, www.pacifictoolandgauge.com. The mounting means are many including bedding the lower half allowing for fast action and or barrel changes. I have one on a tac carry rifle. These will adapt nicely to the Joel Russo modified A-5L stock shown elsewhere on this forum. Overbore
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
I'm not a gunsmith but, I do play one at home and I am in the process of stocking and reblocking a big old target rifle I aquired. Probably built in the early 80's. I weighed 58lbs when I started and had a 3.5 in by 3.5 in steel block in a wood stock. I am changing the block to alunimum and the stock to sythetic hooking the block to the aluminum frame in the stock. When I build another block it will be one piece insted of two. I am not forsure about the accuracy of the rig in two vs one but I can tell you it would be a whole lot easier to fabricate if it only had one slit down one side. Then just drill and tap the one side for the clamping function. If you gonna buy get two. Will let you change the whole rig if you ever want to.
 
I like the 1 pc block Bruce has. When I need to take out the barrel I just heat it up on my stove to break the glue loose. Then I have a 1.5" hole in my bench I put the barrel in and like a slide hammer pull the barrel off the block.

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