Talley lightweight vs Picatinny rail and rings?

Thanks. I've got a similar set up, but it's a 6.5 Creedmoor with a fluted 3B on it, same scope. What ring height are yours?


The 30mm hybrids are equivalent to talley mediums I believe (1.09"). You can run a 50mm objective with them. He makes 1" and 34mm versions as well. I think he's only making one height of each but this was last year.. give him a call as there might be more options now.

Some pics from TS Customs FB page:
https://m.facebook.com/TSCustomsRif...61655195220/914175335393845/?type=3&source=54

https://m.facebook.com/TSCustomsRif...61655195220/914174192060626/?type=3&source=54

https://m.facebook.com/TSCustomsRif...61655195220/791532997658080/?type=3&source=54
 
I missed your comment about having the same scope... the bell clearance isn't excessive with the LRHS by any means. PM me your number and I can send more pics if you'd like.
 
Had Talley rings on a 300 WM and had problems with coming loose. Replaced with rail and rings and have had no issues since. Also, noticed a wee bit better accuracy with the rail and ring combo.
 
I use Talley rings with excellent results on all of my rifles including a full custom 300 win mag and a full custom 338 RUM. Both are braked, both weigh in the mid 7 lb range and both shoot heavy bullets. I personally think it's a shame to add the weight of a pic rail and pic rings to a relatively light rifle that is carried all day while hunting.

Both of my customs were built by Jim Borden and he uses Talley rings and recommends them as well.

I did recently try out Hawkins rings to get 25 MOA and they are great rings. The level on top of the ring is more or less useless as you cannot see the bubble when you're down on the scope. I swapped it out for a ring cap without a bubble. He does make a bubble built into a ring cap that is offset, but it's a bit of a hassle to get. I use a stand alone bubble.

There is a gunsmith that Talley recommends who will cut 20 MOA (or whatever MOA you want) into Talley rings as well.
 
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You have to use lok tight on your base and ring screws or they will /can loosen up. After mounting your scope and everything is perfect remove the ring screws one at a time to apply lok tight.
 
You have to use lok tight on your base and ring screws or they will /can loosen up. After mounting your scope and everything is perfect remove the ring screws one at a time to apply lok tight.

Almost all rail and ring manufacturers specifically do not recommend lock tight . I have many thousands of rounds fired without any thread locking compounds and mine have never come loose . Get a proper torque wrench and use it .
 
Almost all rail and ring manufacturers specifically do not recommend lock tight . I have many thousands of rounds fired without any thread locking compounds and mine have never come loose . Get a proper torque wrench and use it .

I don't use it on the rings, but I sure do on the bases. I use a Fat Wrench.
 
I would like opinions of those who have used both. I have two 7.5lb rifles which I built to try to balance long range with lightweight. I have zero doubt the picatinny set up is more reliable and flexible. My real question is is it worth the extra 4oz?
Dude seriously check out the DNZ game reaper one piece mount.
Weighs under 4oz and is available with a 20 moa base.
 
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