Stuck Brass

[lejuch]

Hello, longtime reader but this is first post. Reloaded 338 Lapua Ammo for a Sako TRG42 3-4 times with Lapua brass. FL sized with Redding "S" type die. Sold that rifle to build a custom comprised of Deviant action and Barlein barrel. Reset Redding die to fit new custom chamber while using Lapua brass that has been shot 3-4 times. My problem is brass sticks in chamber every 4-5 shots. I was interested in members opinion on cause of sticking. I have not annealed the brass, I'm thinking that will fix this. Light loads, no pressure signs on brass. What say you?

 

[Dmagna]

Sounds like you need it annealed and a shoulder bump measurement.

 

[Jud96]

I would check and see how much you're bumping your shoulders when sizing.

 

[bigedp51]

Your cases were fired in another chamber and formed to that chamber, what you are dealing with is brass spring back after sizing.

I buy bulk once fired Lake City 5.56 and 7.62 brass fired in a multitude of chambers. The 7.62 cases give me the biggest problem because they were fired in larger machine gun chambers. I use a small base die to size the cases the first time to reduce then to minimum dimensions.

What you can try is to full length resize the cases again and pause 4 or 5 seconds at the top of the ram stroke. This will reduce the brass spring back after sizing and might fix your problem.

NOTE, with semi-auto rifles after sizing the case diameter should be .003 to .005 smaller than their fired diameter. This ensures the case will spring back from the chamber walls and extracts reliably.

Chambers and dies vary in size but you may be forced to buy new brass to eliminate the problem. That being said I have a .223 Lee full length die that will reduce the case body diameter more than my .223/5.56 RCBS small base die.

Coloring the case with a black felt tip marker will tell you where the fired cases are rubbing. The case may be rubbing on the shoulder and require more shoulder bump. Or if its the case body rubbing only a small base die or pausing at the top of the ram stroke will help reduce the body diameter.

 

[lejuch]

Thanks everyone for the tips. Other than length via shoulder measurements, OAL, and neck dimension, are there any other measurements on brass any of you perform? If so, where/what are they? Thanks again for any insight.

 

[bigedp51]

Thanks everyone for the tips. Other than length via shoulder measurements, OAL, and neck dimension, are there any other measurements on brass any of you perform? If so, where/what are they? Thanks again for any insight.

Your cases were fire formed for another chamber and after sizing the case wants to "spring back" to its fire formed size. You need to find out if the shoulder is rubbing or the case body is rubbing or possibly both.

Again the case needs to be sized smaller than the chamber so it will spring back from the chamber walls after firing. This may be as simple as bumping the shoulder back a little further on your cases. And coloring the case with a black felt tip marker, and chambering the case will tell you where the case is rubbing.

 

[bigedp51]

Basics: Resizing - Case Dimension Changes
Resizing - Case Dimension Changes
by: Germán A. Salazar
https://web.archive.org/web/2015031...6/basics-resizing-case-dimension-changes.html

Measuring the Case
by: Germán A. Salazar
https://web.archive.org/web/2015031...pot.com/2010/03/reloading-measuring-case.html

 

[eshorebwhntr]

What bigedp said is true.

Your always taking a gamble on having these issues using fired brass between different chambers.

 

[L.Sherm]

I bet like biged said your new chamber is probably a little bigger at the .200 line than your old one the brass was fired in.

 

[fiftybmg]

Size the brass to factory first, not to the chamber.

Then after firing in the new chamber, size to chamber.

 

[MagnumManiac]

I have found similar issues going from brass fired in one chamber and not fitting another rifles chamber.
As mentioned, the point .200" up from the base has given me the most trouble, it is this area that I would place soot from a candle or use a Sharpe and chamber a sticky case to find where the sticking is occurring.
Often, I find the spot after firing 'cause it leaves a shiny Mark, but the soot works very well.

Cheers.

 

[Litrfoot]

My advice, buy some new lapua brass and forget the old brass. Should have sold it with the Sako. Maybe send to the individual that purchased the rifle from you? I'm sure they would appreciate it!

Moving from a factory to a custom, the chambers can be quite different! In my experience its not worth messing with brass fired from another rifle. Why expend barrel life to get something to work and possibly never get the upmost accuracy from your new custom rifle.

I never transfer brass between rifles that have been cut with different reamers. Since you have gone custom I would spend the money and buy your own reamer. Going forward you will avoid this problem.

I don't shoot 338 Lapua, so I not sure how many rounds you'll get out of that barrel? You should be able to get 10+ reloads out of the Lapua brass, so 200 pieces should take you through the life of the barrel.

 

[CaptnC]

There are a bunch of guys who will never shoot brass from another rifle in a new rifle, especially if the new rifle is a custom.

I'm not quite so picky, but I've had the same issue with a 6.5x284. Even sent the barrel back and got into a heated exchange about using once fired brass in his barrel.

But one of the members here told me about using a small base die. That did the trick! So for that one rifle...any new to me brass goes through the small base die first so I dont have any issues.

 

[bigedp51]

Below three types of Forster .308/7.62 resizing dies. But nothing is written in stone, I have a standard Lee .223 full length die that will reduce the case body diameter more than my RCBS .223 small base die.

That being said using a small base die on Lake City 7.62 cases that were fired in a machine gun brings the cases back to SAAMI minimum diameter. And these cases function without binding in my Savage bolt action .308.