Should I bed? B&C M40 with Al Block

[CGWVU]

So I've seen multiple options, should I cut the head of a long hardware bolt and use it as a guide screw or use the action screws?

 

[CGWVU]

Then wrap the guide screw with masking tape to give some space so the action screws aren't sitting against the epoxy?

 

[johnnyk]

I went with long bolts with heads removed and tape the entire shaft. I use them for alignment into the stock once the epoxy has been applied and then use inner-tube straps and electrical tape to hold the barreled action in the stock for cleanup and curing.

 

[redneckdan]

If you tape anything other than the bottom of the recoil lug you just defeated the purpose of bedding the lug in the first place.

You pays yer money and makes yer choice. Every thing is a trade off. If I was going after every last bit of accuracy, I'd go with a glued in action.

For a hunting/prs rifle I'll trade the slight increase in accuracy for the easy of disassembly. In humid minnesota, my blued rifles need to be stripped down and oiled somewhat regularly. Same as bumping shoulders versus past traditional practice of neck size only in bechrest. Just cause they do it doesnt mean it's right for everything.

I have seen cases where a tapered recoil lug started bearing on the sides rather than on the receiver ring. Maybe it was a botched bedding job, maybe something shrank in the stock or the glass. Who knows. I'd rather not have to worry about that so I bed mine with a few thou clearance.

 

[MagnumManiac]

On these bedding block rifles, which I have several, all get the recoil lug bedded, with tape on the bottom and sides, nothing behind the lug...unless there is a need for it.
I do not bed forward of the lug, but I do 'skim bed' behind the lug. I use 2 layers of electrical tape on the sides and bottom of the lug...Only on Rem actions. Each rifle type I bed gets a different approach in regard to the room left.
I found that if the lug touches the bottom of the recess, heat from the barrel CAN cause walking POI. Not in all cases of course, so I just avoid the issue in the first place.

Cheers.

 

[gbett308]

Hi all,

I have a rem 700 lr in 300 wm with the factory m40 stock. I haven't been impressed with with the accuracy as I'm getting around 1.25 moa at 100 yds. My question is, should I bed the rifle even though the stock has an Al bedding block. The recoil lug area is huge on the stock and it looks like there is some unusual wear on the tang and back of recoil lug. Would this help my accuracy? I've already replaced the trigger. I've never needed a rifle but I feel like with some pointers I could get it done. Thoughts? Should I just replace the stock with an H and S precision or save the money for a better barrel?

My bro-in-law had a similar issue with the Rem 700 lr in 300wm even after the stock was bedded. He ended up sending the rifle back to Remington and they repaired/replaced with no problem. Rifle shoots well now, no issues with B&C stock. I personally like the B&C M40 stock, very solid in my 308 and favorite. Timney trigger is definitely a mandatory upgrade though.

 

[762x51]

i always bed the recoil lug in aluminum stocks. you can do it very quickly and it takes away any movement you might have.

you can bed an action for about $15. i use johnsons paste wax as a release agent which is $7 for a giant tub. i use the regular action screws once i've coated them with the paste wax. then i use jb weld to bed it. works great and you can always use a dremel to cut it away if you rebarrel and/or get a different recoil lug.

 

[Mram10us]

On these bedding block rifles, which I have several, all get the recoil lug bedded, with tape on the bottom and sides, nothing behind the lug...unless there is a need for it.
I do not bed forward of the lug, but I do 'skim bed' behind the lug. I use 2 layers of electrical tape on the sides and bottom of the lug...Only on Rem actions. Each rifle type I bed gets a different approach in regard to the room left.
I found that if the lug touches the bottom of the recess, heat from the barrel CAN cause walking POI. Not in all cases of course, so I just avoid the issue in the first place.

Cheers.

That sounds like a lot of heat to make it all the way down to the bottom of the recoil lug. Your poor barrel

 

[Backcountry sports]

Hi all,

I have a rem 700 lr in 300 wm with the factory m40 stock. I haven't been impressed with with the accuracy as I'm getting around 1.25 moa at 100 yds. My question is, should I bed the rifle even though the stock has an Al bedding block. The recoil lug area is huge on the stock and it looks like there is some unusual wear on the tang and back of recoil lug. Would this help my accuracy? I've already replaced the trigger. I've never needed a rifle but I feel like with some pointers I could get it done. Thoughts? Should I just replace the stock with an H and S precision or save the money for a better barrel?

Hs precision will be the best and reduce you accuracy

 

[25WSM]

Before you go and do anything look at the recoil lug area on the stock with a magnifying glass. Looking at the picture you provided there appears to be a burr on your aluminum block pushing on the upper right corner of your lug. This burr will cause the lug to not touch evenly causing your issues. Scrape or file or sand the burr away and try it again before doing anything else.
Shep

 

[dave_halsey]

I picked up the same model of rifle in a RUM a few weeks ago and had the local gunsmith bed the action to lock everything in nice and tight. A triggertech trigger and a muzzle brake along with the bedding, and its shooting like a dream! Those aluminum blocks aren't made to tight enough specs, but I think they just have to get them close just because of all the different receiver tolerances.

 

[Bang4theBuck]

I would recommend bedding it. Mine was rebarrelled and didn't shoot as good as I hoped (around 3/4 moa). I bedded the action just to eliminate variables, and the groups wee cut in half. Also, (i'm not a hearsay guy, usually) my smith told me that he had seen quite a few B&C stocks that had bedding blocks that were not completely square to the centerline of the bore. I had a hard time believing that, at the time, but since the groups improved considerably, I am tending to believe him. Also, I have not has a bedding job degrade accuracy in the 10 or 12 rifles that I have bedded, so other than the cost (if you aren't doing it yourself), you shouldn't be out anything.

 

[Exarcher]

I used to build custom rifles, & i have had it both ways.. I built a 7mm-08 on a custom action & threw it in an HS precision (aluminum block) stock & it shoots with my bench guns.. (i gave this to a friend) I decided to build another for my grandson, same action, stock & it would barely group 1moa.. After bedding it premium factory ammo under 1/2 moa... If it don't work to suit you,, bed it!! It won't hurt (assuming you leave the barrel floating!)

 

[D-mon]

Well I d say those Remington actions are not to exact spec either. A couple of years ago I did measure about 6 to 8 different Remington 700 receivers from different years of manufacture ( 80's,90's and recent) and none of them had the same exact outside diameter. Tikka rifles are more consistent. The barrels on those Remington long range with the b&c stock are going from very good to not great at all in term of straightness and accuracy. The one I have at the moment in 300rum shoots good despite the very ugly tool marks inside the bore .