Should I bed? B&C M40 with Al Block

[robert l]

Hi all,

I have a rem 700 lr in 300 wm with the factory m40 stock. I haven't been impressed with with the accuracy as I'm getting around 1.25 moa at 100 yds. My question is, should I bed the rifle even though the stock has an Al bedding block. The recoil lug area is huge on the stock and it looks like there is some unusual wear on the tang and back of recoil lug. Would this help my accuracy? I've already replaced the trigger. I've never needed a rifle but I feel like with some pointers I could get it done. Thoughts? Should I just replace the stock with an H and S precision or save the money for a better barrel?

sounds like the action is moving. i use b@c m 40 and i bed them and they work great.if you change stocks you will still need to bed that stock allso.

 

[jimbires]

I bedded a bell and Carlson stock with the aluminum block . the rifle was previously bedded and the bedding material was cracking and falling out . I removed all the old bedding . I did use Ernie the gunsmith accurisers . these risers act like pillars when the job is done . my bedding block was counter sunk at the pillar a little , so I put a couple of the risers washers in to make this a little higher than the rest of the block . I bolted the action in place then took a note card and passed it between the action and stock to be sure there was no contact anywhere other than the accurisers . I put a couple layers of tape on the bottom of the recoil lug . then I bedded it with 10110 devcon . it turned out good and shoots good too .

 

[73driver]

I have a new Howa 1500 6.5C in the Hogue plastic stock with pillars. The Howa shot the first time 1MOA groups with ELDX and 140ELD match ammo. When I put the Howa in a BC stock with the aluminum bedding block it shot 2 inch groups. So yes I will be epoxy bedding the BC stock, the aluminum bedding block ends up being a hi tech pillars.

 

[DDWing]

Hi all,

I have a rem 700 lr in 300 wm with the factory m40 stock. I haven't been impressed with with the accuracy as I'm getting around 1.25 moa at 100 yds. My question is, should I bed the rifle even though the stock has an Al bedding block. The recoil lug area is huge on the stock and it looks like there is some unusual wear on the tang and back of recoil lug. Would this help my accuracy? I've already replaced the trigger. I've never needed a rifle but I feel like with some pointers I could get it done. Thoughts? Should I just replace the stock with an H and S precision or save the money for a better barrel?

I have the same rifle. With factory ammo, I was getting on average 1.5 in. groups at 100 yrds. I had it steel bedded, installed a Timney trigger, and a muzzle break. I'm now getting.0.5 in. groups at 100 yrds. using 180gr. Barnes ttsx.

 

[baldhunter]

Let's see,B&C M40 stocks,three different rifles.All I do is wrap and tape enough folded paper on the barrel to keep it centered in the barrel channel of the stock and then bed the recoil lug.The 7mag is a stock Rem Long Range.The 338-06 was a 30-06 Rem Long Range rebore Range

 

[atblis]

I say bed. I have one in 300 RUM that after bedding shoots better than I expected.

Make sure the aluminum block is in the stock correctly. Sometimes they get molded in crooked. If it's bad enough, I'd get another stock.

 

[Dean2]

I say bed. I have one in 300 RUM that after bedding shoots better than I expected.

Make sure the aluminum block is in the stock correctly. Sometimes they get molded in crooked. If it's bad enough, I'd get another stock.

Just so you know, if it is bad enough, Remington will replace the stock for free.

 

[robert l]

I have bedded a bunch of these and they shot very well. I don't see a need for the washers, but that is just me. I try to skim coat and don't want to make new action screws. As BG said, front recoil lug is the important part. Now you have to decide how you tape it up

i use pva which is used when building fiberglass parts.its water based its easy to use you just brush it on and let it dry put three coats on your barrel and action then you just bed your action with devcon or what you choose screw it down and let it dry and take it apart and wash the pva off and you are off to the races.

 

[robert l]

I bedded a bell and Carlson stock with the aluminum block . the rifle was previously bedded and the bedding material was cracking and falling out . I removed all the old bedding . I did use Ernie the gunsmith accurisers . these risers act like pillars when the job is done . my bedding block was counter sunk at the pillar a little , so I put a couple of the risers washers in to make this a little higher than the rest of the block . I bolted the action in place then took a note card and passed it between the action and stock to be sure there was no contact anywhere other than the accurisers . I put a couple layers of tape on the bottom of the recoil lug . then I bedded it with 10110 devcon . it turned out good and shoots good too .

now that is a nice clean bed job.copy that and your rifle should under 1/2 moa @ 100 yds.

 

[MagnumManiac]

That sounds like a lot of heat to make it all the way down to the bottom of the recoil lug. Your poor barrel

Have you experienced how hot a 338-416 Rigby Improved barrel gets after a 5 shot or 10 shot string in only a few minutes?
Trust me, the barrel gets HOT, not warm.
And yes, POI walked on this rifle with a tight bed. It is built on a CZ 550 SAFARI action.

Cheers.

 

[Mram10us]

Have you experienced how hot a 338-416 Rigby Improved barrel gets after a 5 shot or 10 shot string in only a few minutes?
Trust me, the barrel gets HOT, not warm.
And yes, POI walked on this rifle with a tight bed. It is built on a CZ 550 SAFARI action.

Cheers.

I don't shoot my big boomers in 5 shot strings. Definitely not 10 shot. I wouldn't doubt that would get hot if you shoot it like that. The trigger would overheat

 

[CGWVU]

I bedded a bell and Carlson stock with the aluminum block . the rifle was previously bedded and the bedding material was cracking and falling out . I removed all the old bedding . I did use Ernie the gunsmith accurisers . these risers act like pillars when the job is done . my bedding block was counter sunk at the pillar a little , so I put a couple of the risers washers in to make this a little higher than the rest of the block . I bolted the action in place then took a note card and passed it between the action and stock to be sure there was no contact anywhere other than the accurisers . I put a couple layers of tape on the bottom of the recoil lug . then I bedded it with 10110 devcon . it turned out good and shoots good too .

Did you remove any material from the stock? I ordered the accurisers and placed them in the stock. Tightened to 10 inch lbs and can pass a piece of paper through. My question is, should my rifle be so tight fitting? Is there enough room for the epoxy? Thanks

 

[jimbires]

Did you remove any material from the stock? I ordered the accurisers and placed them in the stock. Tightened to 10 inch lbs and can pass a piece of paper through. My question is, should my rifle be so tight fitting? Is there enough room for the epoxy? Thanks

I think I used like a recipe note card to check for clearance . I'm guessing it's about as thick as a business card . I answered one of your other post with a write up of when I did mine . any questions just ask . hope this helps .

 

[LoneTraveler]

I had a chance to buy a Rem. 700 .223 Rem. Took it to the range and it shot in like 2 seperate groups. I pulled the Tupperware stock and put a S&H Precision stock on it. It appeared the Aluminum bedding block was off ever so little. I took it to the range and it shot about like the Tupperware stock did. Laying on the rest a dollar bill would not slide through the barrel channel. I cleaned the bedding block with a touch of 400 sand paper. Centered the barrel in the stock with business cards, waxed the action and bedded the action to the contact spots of the block with JB weld metal filled Epoxy. Now it shoots .200 with a load it likes.
My 338 WM has a aluminum bedding block stock that worked great straight out of the box.