Jeffrey Van Zandt
Well-Known Member
yes 5/8 and they sell the drill with pilot for them best out there and there beeding is easy to use and does a nice job
Score High adjustable pillar diameter?
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Score High's PDF instructoins for bedding the Winchester and the Remington 700 state that you have to drill a 5/8ths. inch hole in the stock if this helps you at all. Brownells sells adjustable pillars, their specs on their pillars read ".560" thousandths diameter for their adjustable pillars, so......I suspect that High Score's pillars measure .560 or 9/16ths inch diameter. And......also if they make a counterbore with a pilot it makes the job a whole lot easier and less likely to drill a hole off center and ruin a stock. I've done several pillar bedding jobs without the counter-bore, and found it quite difficult to drill the holes without drilling off center and ruining a stock. I've been using solid pillars that run around 1/2" and have been using a 9/16s inch three flute drill and a fixture that I made out of wood. It's been okay, but.....just bought the counterbore with a pilot that is the same size as the trigger guard screws. The pilot will align the counterbore in the existing factory holes. Good luck with your project
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Frank Kalisz
Well-Known Member
Here's a 1/2-wide pillar that you can get cheaply at any hardware store.
3/8-in x 1/2-in x 1-in Seamless Steel Spacer https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-3-8-in-x-1-2-in-x-1-in-Seamless-Steel-Spacer/3012477
3/8-in x 1/2-in x 1-in Seamless Steel Spacer https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-3-8-in-x-1-2-in-x-1-in-Seamless-Steel-Spacer/3012477
I've read where people have used the tubing for lamps and steel material like that. My concern about using steel is that it will rust because it is not blued or treated with some form of rust preventative. Also.....unless you have a lathe or milling machine available to use, fitting the steel is going to be a whole lot more difficult then filing and machining aluminum. IMHO
25WSM
Well-Known Member
I don't know why people are guessing. I actually measured one with a caliper and stated the dia on the first page. We're only on page 2 and guys haven't even read page one.
Shep
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Frank Kalisz
Well-Known Member
I had to get smallest possible pillars in order to clear internal support pins in the Boyds Stock that I bedded - so the steel worked best for me. I found it surprisingly easy to fit steel tubing for my pillars. It was just a matter of chopping it with a hacksaw and fine tuning length with a file - plus of course I roughed up the outside of the steel tube to bond to epoxy. And I never expect corrosion to be an issue since my steel pillars are fully bedded with epoxy. I wish you good luck with whatever you decide to do.
25WSM
Well-Known Member
I read them all before I post to know what's been said that I like and don't like before I give an opinion. It's fun too me or I would just walk away from this site. I know your joking but really guys on threads are saying the same stuff on page 10 that was said on page 1. We wonder how threads get so long.
Shep
Shep
25WSM
Well-Known Member
They are smaller so that when you push the bushing down the hole it doesn't scrape away all the epoxy. These are made to attach to the action and glued in while bedding the action. They are not glued in by their self. The scorehigh system works perfectly ever time I do it. Perfectly centered pillers and the curve of the action fits in the pillers perfectly. So by design they have slop. If you want to glue pillers in as a separate step then don't use these.
Shep
Shep
25WSM
Well-Known Member
The 598 number is probably spec'ed at . 600 and mine are slightly small. It's not A metric number and the . 600 Piller is designed to work with the . 625 drill. It's a system and a dang good one.
Shep
Shep
