Ruger M77 Tang

[hugetacticles]

This is what the flat bolt looks like.

Thanks for the pic. I'm pretty sure mine is the round one.

 

[bikerbowhunter]

I have a tang safety M77 in .308. Bought it new in 1982. this past year I did everything mentioned above to get it to shoot less than 1 MOA. I would say that it is very sensitive to the torque on the action screws, and particularly over tightening the middle trigger guard screw. The rifle basix sear definitely smooths out the trigger. If you like the stock, then I would say the $150 is worth it.

 

[jdyoung]

Smith floated it, I shot it and it actually got much worse. I just checked the screws this morning and they were not tight at all. Here is a pic of the acriglass that dropped. Will this be something that affects how the action is seated?

[Q
If it raises the receiver up enough that there is no or limited contact between the front ring and the stock….yes.

It it raises the receiver up so there is uneven contact or causes the barreled action to be uncentered / unlevel in the stock….yes.

If it raised the receiver up enough to lessen the amount of the recoil lug that contacts the stock….yes again.

I would be greasing up that barreled action with Jarrows Inletting ink , (black, gold ), Dykem layout fluid, something that would leave highly visible marks where the barreled action makes contact with the stock .That way one can judge which contact is desirable and which is not.
Little story:
The first rifle I bought for my son as a surprise, a Rem 700 in 6mm with Redfield 2-7 scope, shot very well for me just after purchase. I then disassembled it to check things . I found a glob of the original factory finish in the inletting under one side of the receiver . Used my pocket knife and scraped it level with the rest of the surface. Reassembled it. Went shooting the next day with my friend . Using a Redfield target, at 100 yds. My aimpoint was the center diamond . Fired two shots. My buddy was on the spotting scope. He said , "were you shooting at the little diamond in the upper left corner?". Puzzled , I said "no". I fired a third shot to check, again using the center diamond aimpoint. Sure enough, it hit with the other two. Nice little group. Removing that little glob moved the group approximately 5 1/2" up and to the left. That Redfield scope had been adjusted almost to it's limits because of a little 1/8" glob of acrylic clear finish.

BUT the loose screws are a BIG FACTOR !!!!!

 

[greenejc]

I've got an elk hunt coming up in October, if covid doesn't get in the way. I've got a 1970's model Ruger M77 7mm rem mag tang safety that was passed down to me. I've shot 5 different boxes of ammo through from Barnes to Nosler, to Hornady. The best group I got was from the Barnes TSX 160 grain. It was a little under 2 inch group and it wasn't consistent. I'm having a smith float the barrel but he said he really only uses aluminum blocks for bedding and it would cost me $150 to do it. My question is this, if get the rifle back from the smith after floating and it's not shooting any better am I better off cutting my losses and putting the $150 into a different rifle? I've never bedded a rifle and I was thinking about attempting to glass bed it myself before going a different direction, but with no experience I'm wondering if I'll do more harm than good. I've been reading that tightening the lug and action in the correct sequence can do wonders for accuracy as well. I'll make sure and check it out once I get it back. I don't really need it to shoot 1/4 inch groups but getting down to a consistent 1-1.5 inch rifle would be nice. Anyone with experience with the Ruger M77 tangs have any words of wisdom they might impart on me?

I have two Ruger M77's currently. One is in 6mm Rem, and the other is a 30-06. Both shoot inside 1" with good handloads. Torque on the action screws is critical to accuracy on these rifles, and on any Ruger M77 series rifles. There's a sweet spot for torque. Its around 50 inch pounds on the front action screw, and 20-25 inch pounds on the back one. But check your barrel first for wear. As to getting 0.25 inch groups at 100 yards, good luck with that. Most custom rifles won't get near that with hunting weight barrels. But 0.75 inch groups will let you hit anything at any hunting distance inside around 800 yards. By the way, Ruger will re-barrel your rifle for you with plenty of time left for you to zero it and test it for accuracy before hunting season. They can also best tell you how to get accuracy out of it. You might write them about your issues. They will also give you torque figures for the rifle. If I recall correctly, its 90 inch pounds on the front screw and 25 inch pounds on the back one. My torque driver doesn't go past 60 inch pounds, so I torque to about 50 to 55 on my Ruger M77's. I get good results at that pressure level though, so I'm happy. And if you really want top accuracy out of the round and rifle combination, you'll need to start reloading, because factory ammunition won't do it. But try Remington and Federal ammunition, too. It may be more consistent.

 

[greenejc]

I have a Timney trigger in my M77 MKII, but in the M77's, I'm staying with the original triggers. They're adjustable and were set before the current Lawyer Epidemic. So they're already adjusted to a good shooting and hunting poundage. And yes, the middle screw is a sensitive item in torquing the action in. Basically, you don't torque it over around 10 inch pounds, and you put a little blue locktite in the treads to keep it from backing out. I haven't had either Ruger glass bedded, but I'm thinking I might do that in the near future. However, with good reloads, they shoot inside 1 inch at 100 yards, and while that's not one hole groups, its good enough with the light, 0.550 diameter at the muzzle barrel that's on the Rugers I have. I really wish the barrel was a little thicker, though. Also, when this rifle first came out, Ruger contracted some of its barrels out, and quality varied. That has long since been corrected, and Ruger makes very good hammer forged barrels, which are quite accurate for standard production rifles. Your barrel's muzzle diameter is probably closer to 0.625, because it should be a magnum contour. If you can't get accuracy out of the rifle, just re-barrel it, and you will have an accurate, durable and extremely strong rifle without spending $1000's of dollars chasing unobtainium. If you get less than 1" at 100 yards from 5 shots out of a standard hunting rifle's barrel, that is excellent accuracy. If you want better, you will have to get Hart, Douglass, Shilen, kreiger or Lilja to re-barrel it, and then it might shoot 0.5 inch. GunWerks might get it to shoot that tight, also. You'll spend at least a thousand on it. And it will only do it with hand loads.

 

[Alibiiv]

Smith floated it, I shot it and it actually got much worse. I just checked the screws this morning and they were not tight at all. Here is a pic of the acriglass that dropped. Will this be something that affects how the action is seated?

From the photo for me this rifle is "not" bedded properly; and....I'm not trying to bang anyone!! The wood around the recess for the recoil lug (including underneath the recoil lug) ought to be removed clear back, almost breaking through the wood and into the magazine well. Usually I will leave about 1/16th of an inch of wood between the clearanced wood and the magazine well so that it does not break through, then I use modeling clay inside of the magazine box to help hold in the squeezed out epoxy. The recoil lug has to be bedded to for the job to be done properly, and....the barrel ought to be floated from 4 inches in front of the recoil lug.

 

[Alibiiv]

From the photo for me this rifle is "not" bedded properly; and....I'm not trying to bang anyone!! The wood around the recess for the recoil lug (including underneath the recoil lug) ought to be removed clear back, almost breaking through the wood and into the magazine well. Usually I will leave about 1/16th of an inch of wood between the clearanced wood and the magazine well so that it does not break through, then I use modeling clay inside of the magazine box to help hold in the squeezed out epoxy. The recoil lug has to be bedded to for the job to be done properly, and....the barrel ought to be floated from 4 inches in front of the recoil lug.

 

[hugetacticles]

Quick update. I shot 2 groups after work quick after tightening the screws to the action. I didn't have a inch pound torque wrench so I just hand tightened them with a screw driver. First two shots were a half inch apart the third was 2 inches from the first. Let the barrel cool and shot three more. The first two shots were and inch and a half a part and the third one split the difference. I found a smith that seems knowledgeable on m77 that said he would glass bed it. I may get an inch pound torque wrench first to get the screws to specs. It was promising to say the least.

 

[Alibiiv]

Quick update. I shot 2 groups after work quick after tightening the screws to the action. I didn't have a inch pound torque wrench so I just hand tightened them with a screw driver. First two shots were a half inch apart the third was 2 inches from the first. Let the barrel cool and shot three more. The first two shots were and inch and a half a part and the third one split the difference. I found a smith that seems knowledgeable on m77 that said he would glass bed it. I may get an inch pound torque wrench first to get the screws to specs. It was promising to say the least.

I did PM you before I read this reply; glad to read this posting. WHEELER makes a pretty good torque screwdriver in inch-pounds, usually Midway USA has them as well as a few others. The factory recommends 90 inch pounds on that front recoil lug screw (20-30 on the very rear screw), I have found that 65 works well for me. I'm afraid that if I go to factory specs it will strip out the threads.

 

[bomberodevil]

Quick update. I shot 2 groups after work quick after tightening the screws to the action. I didn't have a inch pound torque wrench so I just hand tightened them with a screw driver. First two shots were a half inch apart the third was 2 inches from the first. Let the barrel cool and shot three more. The first two shots were and inch and a half a part and the third one split the difference. I found a smith that seems knowledgeable on m77 that said he would glass bed it. I may get an inch pound torque wrench first to get the screws to specs. It was promising to say the least.

As a very rough rule of thumb, tighten the front screw about as tight as you can with a hand screwdriver, tighten the rear screw about half the front, and barely snug the middle screw. But a Wheeler torque screwdriver is reasonable and accurate. Again, in my humble opinion, the Ruger M77 have the potential to be an accurate hunting rifle. My 30.06 shoots sub .500 MOA with a few loads.

 

[DSheetz]

I have found that Rugers can be made to shoot well for their intended use . I don't think they were ever meant to be bench rest rifles just an affordable hunting rifle . Some people understand them and others don't they are kind of patterned on a Mouser or an older model 70 Winchester I have fun with them getting the best out of them for myself but not asking too much of them if I want a custom or one that shoots like a bench rest rifle then that's what I'll buy. Some of mine have sentimental value more then any thing else .

 

[jdyoung]

I did PM you before I read this reply; glad to read this posting. WHEELER makes a pretty good torque screwdriver in inch-pounds, usually Midway USA has them as well as a few others. The factory recommends 90 inch pounds on that front recoil lug screw (20-30 on the very rear screw), I have found that 65 works well for me. I'm afraid that if I go to factory specs it will strip out the threads.

Amazon has those torque screwdrivers , and because of Corona 19 you will probably get it quicker

 

[Wyomingmike]

I've got an elk hunt coming up in October, if covid doesn't get in the way. I've got a 1970's model Ruger M77 7mm rem mag tang safety that was passed down to me. I've shot 5 different boxes of ammo through from Barnes to Nosler, to Hornady. The best group I got was from the Barnes TSX 160 grain. It was a little under 2 inch group and it wasn't consistent. I'm having a smith float the barrel but he said he really only uses aluminum blocks for bedding and it would cost me $150 to do it. My question is this, if get the rifle back from the smith after floating and it's not shooting any better am I better off cutting my losses and putting the $150 into a different rifle? I've never bedded a rifle and I was thinking about attempting to glass bed it myself before going a different direction, but with no experience I'm wondering if I'll do more harm than good. I've been reading that tightening the lug and action in the correct sequence can do wonders for accuracy as well. I'll make sure and check it out once I get it back. I don't really need it to shoot 1/4 inch groups but getting down to a consistent 1-1.5 inch rifle would be nice. Anyone with experience with the Ruger M77 tangs have any words of wisdom they might impart on me?

I have the same rifle I glass bedded it and it shoots 1". Love my rugers. I also have the 270 and 25.06.

 

[Andrew Cowling]

I have bedded mine and floated the barrel. 3 stain less pillars and stainless steel Devcon. Perfect fit and as long as the bolts are tight is shoots well. Doing a little extra stock work atm too.