No load data for Lapua, plenty for Winchester, Remington and federal

[jpfrog]

As mentioned before, hand loading for rifle is not like loading for shotgun or like opening a cookbook and choosing a recipe for an entree. Every rifle is different and will produce different velocities and pressure, and the minimum charge weight is a starting point because it has been deemed as safe by corporate lawyers. I have never paid attention to the brass used by loading manuals. Or the primer. I look at bullet and powder weights.

On a new rifle with new brass, start at the minimum load listed for your powder and bulllet type/weight. Go up from there- every rifle will be different. I have said that twice now, because it is important to understand.

As you get better and more experienced, you can start adjusting your starting loads based on your knowledge of your components and how they behave in your rifle. If you decide to dump your Lapua brass because nobody lists it in their loading manual, I might suggest giving up hand loading altogether. Lapua is the best, and is expensive, and publishers of loading manuals aren't going to use it. They use the most widely available brass they can find, which is often cheapest, and do not do brass prep. Piece to piece, their brass will have different capacity even from the same lot. That's why the starting loads are so low and safe. Lapua is VERY consistent from piece to piece within a lot. Your work on prep will be much less than on the lower quality brass, and your loads will be better/more consistent in velocity, which will be quite noticeable on paper down range. If you want to skip all the safety and testing/tuning, just buy factory ammo.

 

[brant89]

Sounds like I should dump the Lapua brass and go with one of the factory 3 above, would be a whole lot less trouble, I've used mostly Winchester and federal brass and had no problems with em as long as I stayed in normal parameters, I'd like to think using a recipe from either of those would get me fairly close to the load data provided for them on the Lapua…..

What you need to do is ignore the headstamp, pick a STARTING load, and work up normally while looking for pressure signs. No book or any person on here is going to be able to tell you what load is going to work best YOUR rifle. If you use a STARTING load for the bullet and powder combo you have, in a well built and properly functioning rifle, you will 100% be fine regardless of what brand of brass you are using. Work up to accuracy from there, and monitor any signs of pressure. If you are unsure of how to do this then I would suggest finding someone in your area who you trust and is highly experienced in precision reloading to teach you.

Dumping Lapua brass for Win, Rem, of Fed would be a terrible mistake. None of those are going to match Lapua quality and consistency without a lot of prep and sorting.

 

[7stwnut]

Check out the VV web site.

 

[brant89]

As mentioned before, hand loading for rifle is not like loading for shotgun or like opening a cookbook and choosing a recipe for an entree. Every rifle is different and will produce different velocities and pressure, and the minimum charge weight is a starting point because it has been deemed as safe by corporate lawyers. I have never paid attention to the brass used by loading manuals. Or the primer. I look at bullet and powder weights.

On a new rifle with new brass, start at the minimum load listed for your powder and bulllet type/weight. Go up from there- every rifle will be different. I have said that twice now, because it is important to understand.

As you get better and more experienced, you can start adjusting your starting loads based on your knowledge of your components and how they behave in your rifle. If you decide to dump your Lapua brass because nobody lists it in their loading manual, I might suggest giving up hand loading altogether. Lapua is the best, and is expensive, and publishers of loading manuals aren't going to use it. They use the most widely available brass they can find, which is often cheapest, and do not do brass prep. Piece to piece, their brass will have different capacity even from the same lot. That's why the starting loads are so low and safe. Lapua is VERY consistent from piece to piece within a lot. Your work on prep will be much less than on the lower quality brass, and your loads will be better/more consistent in velocity, which will be quite noticeable on paper down range. If you want to skip all the safety and testing/tuning, just buy factory ammo.

Gmac and jpfrog, both raise a valid point. Birddog 68, myself, and many others on here are comfortable starting above the starting loads because we have years of experience in load development, and probably a fair amount of wildcatting. I would NEVER recommend this to a beginner. Use a starting load.

 

[MtnOak]

I will definitely be starting in the lower ends of data first

 

[Shane Lindsey]

Sound advice about starting at the bottom.

If a new rifle and you do not know its personality, start low.

I am working with one now that is a new to me wildcat and any data provided has been very hot in this rifle. I had to re-think my load process for it.

I typically, like most start in the middle (because we are all over achievers). Ruined components later has taught me to lean on the conservative side.

 

[Dmagna]

I will definitely be starting in the lower ends of data first

I don't know how long you have been reloading for but it sounds like you need to put some time in at the bench and range. Lapua is some of the best brass on the planet. The load data in books is general data nothing is perfect. That's why everyone on this site or any other site when posting their data always says start low and work up. Everything is different from one reloading book to another, brass is the least of your worries.

 

[MagnumManiac]

I use Lapua 300WM brass, both the older stuff made by Norma and the newer stuff…they DO NOT hold the same amount of H2O, so that tells me the newer Lapua brass is heavier in the web.
I had to run about a grain lighter than my normal loads using either Remington or Winchester brass. It is much less capacious than Norma brass. It is not as thick as ADG brass but is very tough in the head. My testing was limited and now that my shooting career is over, the testing will go no further.
It is fantastic brass and all you need to do is work up from 5% below max as I did. Shot very well with 210g ABLR in 3 of my rifles, as did newly made Remington brass once sorted and checked for capacity.

Cheers.

 

[MtnOak]

I use Lapua 300WM brass, both the older stuff made by Norma and the newer stuff…they DO NOT hold the same amount of H2O, so that tells me the newer Lapua brass is heavier in the web.
I had to run about a grain lighter than my normal loads using either Remington or Winchester brass. It is much less capacious than Norma brass. It is not as thick as ADG brass but is very tough in the head. My testing was limited and now that my shooting career is over, the testing will go no further.
It is fantastic brass and all you need to do is work up from 5% below max as I did. Shot very well with 210g ABLR in 3 of my rifles, as did newly made Remington brass once sorted and checked for capacity.

Cheers.

Thank you for the info magnum maniac, some of the most informative not to mention positive I've received on the brass and I do appreciate all others info too… but the "grain lighter" and "5% below max" was the info I been looking for. Thank you.

 

[tturner6]

What gives here?
I can find data for all the above except Lapua and just ordered 100 new 300 win brass, my Speer book shows nothing for loading that brass, is there a load data book out there that does?? Maybe Sierra or Berger?
Ive always used the other 3 name brand brass and never give it any thought until now…

Lapua has a book. I have it. I always buy Lapua when available.

 

[swabby56]

What gives here?
I can find data for all the above except Lapua and just ordered 100 new 300 win brass, my Speer book shows nothing for loading that brass, is there a load data book out there that does?? Maybe Sierra or Berger?
Ive always used the other 3 name brand brass and never give it any thought until now…

I have called Lapua and told the what caliber and bullet I am shooting and they have emailed me a data sheet with load data for a out 10 different powders. Give them a try

 

[GavinB]

To answer the question - My understanding is Lapua only supports Vihtavuori powders - you can find load data for Lapua on the Vit web site. Another interesting thing is that Lapua also tells you to only neck size their brass.

 

[smokepoler]

Best practice is to use the same brand of brass for a particular firearm. Trying to mix and match loads, primers and brass for one firearm can be an expensive and fruitless rabbit hole.

 

[katakenm]

Call me crazy, but I've never paid any attention to the brand of brass or primers used in the reloading manual. Reloading manuals are guidelines, not the gospel. Starting loads are extremely watered down for this exact purpose.

Exactly! In my 338LM I use several brands. Peterson Cartridge is my favorite!