New To Reloading Please Help!

[emp1953]

Do you mean use that RCBS tool specifically or use a tool like it? I have one of those that looks nearly identical it came in a Lee case trimmer set. I will do some more testing later, I have been running the tool to remove any burrs and feeling for it with the prongs on the tool when I am done but I am not doing it enough to get a beveled edge on the inside of the case mouth.

Sounds like that is one of my issues.

Thanks.

One like it will be fine.

 

[bluedog69]

Do you mean use that RCBS tool specifically or use a tool like it? I have one of those that looks nearly identical it came in a Lee case trimmer set. I will do some more testing later, I have been running the tool to remove any burrs and feeling for it with the prongs on the tool when I am done but I am not doing it enough to get a beveled edge on the inside of the case mouth.

Sounds like that is one of my issues.

Thanks.

I can see a shiny beveled edge on mine. This may be your only problem.
I use an RCBS Brass Boss case prep center. Expensive but man does it speed things up.

 

[emp1953]

I can see a shiny beveled edge on mine. This may be your only problem.
I use an RCBS Brass Boss case prep center. Expensive but man does it speed things up.

And that Brass Boss will keep all your case prep very consistent, from case to case.

 

[epoletna]

I don't think you went wrong with the RCBS dies. There are other brands out there, obviously, and many of them are very good in one way or another. But there is nothing really wrong with the RCBS dies, although you can make some changes (like lapping the seating stem) to make them better. Bottom line, thoiugh, is give them a chance. Don't rush out and try another brand right away. Do try the chamfering tool that is recommended above, and see if that solves your bullet-shaving issue.

You will hear people recommend Lee tools. I have had a few, and still have two Lee die sets. They have some advantages, especially the crimp dies. But I prefer the knurled nuts on the RCBS dies (even though someone above correctly points out that they end up being tightened with pliers), and if you absolutely hate them you can replace them with hex nuts you can loosen and tighten with an open-end wrench.

I really don't think you'll be happier with Lee or Hornady or any other dies. RCBS dies are utilitarian and I've been using them for more than 60 years. That's got to mean something (aside from than the fact that I'm doggone old.). And their customer support is to die for -- just last week I called to tell them I had lost a power transformer for an electronic powder dispenser. It was not broken, it was LOST, and that was my own fault. They sent me a replacement in two days at no cost! Try that with another product.

 

[Mark37082]

It is amazing how many things you will acquire over time. Learn to use what you have and add on as you go. My cheap Lee die sets produced some very good ammo. The only problem is if you are like me, you will keep upgrading. The buy once cry once in reloading is something that holds true if you fall deep into the passion. I have many dies sets that sit on a shelf that don't get used.

 

[GBA1776]

Sounds like you are doing a lot of good things with the equipment you have. I agree with others to make sure you chamfer well and have the right seating stem for your bullet. I do think your biggest issue with shaving copper is that you have too much neck tension. Measure your brass neck diameter with a micrometer before and after you seat the bullet. If the difference is more than .002 you have too much neck tension (the mouth is significantly smaller than the bullet diameter and it takes too much force to seat the bullet). This is hard on the bullet and hard on your equipment. To fix this buy a mandrel. After resizing you can run a mandrel through the case neck to open it back up so it is .001 smaller than the bullet.

Hope that helps.

I just resized 5 cases and my case neck diameter fresh out of the die is .245 or .2455 (with the small 5 next to the measurement flashing on my digital caliper) and a loaded round has a neck diameter of .246 with the small 5 flashing so I guess I am good in that respect.

I more aggressively chamfered the inside of the case mouths I had a .010" bevel on it and the seating process was smooth, very low effort and I didn't see any shavings. Thanks!

That bevel should be fairly repeatable I have my case holder from the trimming tool in a drill and I lay it on its back so the case is spinning sitting straight up and I let it rotate 5 times as slow as the drill will go with just the weight of the tool doing the cutting.

 

[Koda_]

I just resized 5 cases and my case neck diameter fresh out of the die is .245 or .2455 (with the small 5 next to the measurement flashing on my digital caliper) and a loaded round has a neck diameter of .246 with the small 5 flashing so I guess I am good in that respect.

I more aggressively chamfered the inside of the case mouths I had a .010" bevel on it and the seating process was smooth, very low effort and I didn't see any shavings. Thanks!

That bevel should be fairly repeatable I have my case holder from the trimming tool in a drill and I lay it on its back so the case is spinning sitting straight up and I let it rotate 5 times as slow as the drill will go with just the weight of the tool doing the cutting.

Neck tension is a personal preference, several things can affect how much to choose. I personally like .003" in my gas guns as Ive had issues with inertia changing seating depth. Some cases are softer brass too like Nosler brass may warrant more neck tension (plus a crimp). Find what tension you need for your rifle and components.

dont over chamfer, I know you just got a positive result but IMO .010" is a lot as the wall thickness isnt much on a 223 neck. It might depend on what bullet your using? and if its a flat base or a boatail? Hold the bullet with your fingers on the case neck as long as possible in the seating step will help keep it in line.

 

[GBA1776]

Neck tension is a personal preference, several things can affect how much to choose. I personally like .003" in my gas guns as Ive had issues with inertia changing seating depth. Some cases are softer brass too like Nosler brass may warrant more neck tension (plus a crimp). Find what tension you need for your rifle and components.

dont over chamfer, I know you just got a positive result but IMO .010" is a lot as the wall thickness isnt much on a 223 neck. It might depend on what bullet your using? and if its a flat base or a boatail? Hold the bullet with your fingers on the case neck as long as possible in the seating step will help keep it in line.

Im using boat tail bullets, I have a couple boxes of Hornady 73 ELD's and I just got 500 55gr Boat tail soft points as a rebate from Hornady.

I will try using less of a chamfer and bump it up a bit as soon as I run into more jacket shaving issues.

Thanks.

 

[xsn10s]

I use a tool like this on all my VLD type bullets. No more shaving. Works just fine on my 73 gr ELDM loads for my AR. https://www.grafs.com/catalog/product/productId/10544

 

[Koda_]

Im using boat tail bullets, I have a couple boxes of Hornady 73 ELD's and I just got 500 55gr Boat tail soft points as a rebate from Hornady.

I will try using less of a chamfer and bump it up a bit as soon as I run into more jacket shaving issues.

Thanks.

definitely dont need .010" chamfer with boatails.
on 223, I think the wall thickness is barely thicker than that, just an edge break as small as you need to mitigate jacket shavings, the other part of that is a clean neck ID and holding the bullet straight with the case as long as possible into the seating die and you shouldnt need much of an edge break just a consistent one.

 

[Troutslayer2]

I think you should get some kind of media tumbler. It's a pretty inexpensive piece of equipment and at the least will save you some energy but also probably serve to keep the rest of your tools cleaner.

 

[GBA1776]

I use a tool like this on all my VLD type bullets. No more shaving. Works just fine on my 73 gr ELDM loads for my AR. https://www.grafs.com/catalog/product/productId/10544

I will probably get that tool just for the handle and I think the steeper angle will work better for knocking the burr of anyway. Thanks.

 

[GBA1776]

I think you should get some kind of media tumbler. It's a pretty inexpensive piece of equipment and at the least will save you some energy but also probably serve to keep the rest of your tools cleaner.

A tumbler is going to be my next purchase or perhaps gift if I can wangle it that way I know you can dry tumble or wet tumble what do people think of each? I know I need a dryer if I wet tumble so I am leaning towards a dry medium. What are everyone's opinions on each?

 

[nksmfamjp]

Welcome to reloading! It is a bit like the song Hotel California!

I am hand cleaning my used brass, brake clean for the outside and a good wipe down

Hand cleaning can work, but I'd be afraid Brake Cleaner might be hard on brass. I don't know this. I do know a corn cob tumbler should be under $100 to get going.

I then lay cases out on a blue shop towel usually 10 at a time and spray them down with Hornady case lube that came with the kit,

you might try putting them in an open box and spraying down at 45 deg to the neck. Then mix up and let dry for like 10 min.

I am running into an issue where I get rings from the seating rod around the tips of my bullets they aren't deep but I assume that cant be good for consistency and it seems like I am really having to push on the load lever pretty hard, some cases it takes more effort to seat the bullet than it did to size them

This is usually neck tension, need for neck lube or bullet fit to seating plug. It sounds like you are struggling with not enough lube in neck or maybe neck tension.

Last, we are all enablers. Try to collect data from your targets and your process. If you notice an issue, try shooting some good ones vs some bad ones. Use that to drive your decision