Need help with 2285 yard shot.

[MontanaRifleman]

I think your going to need an aiming point higher than the target to get it done, I would get an idea with the scope to see about where your going to need to place the upper aiming point and give yourself some MOA to play with after a sighter. We do this with the BPCR rifles cause often times you can't get a good site picture on the target so you site in using another target. You will have enough time to look through a spotting scope mounted near you to spot your hit.
Or shim you base. I use shim stock and shim the rear of my base to the desired height, then use JB weld between all the layer and under the front of the base, lube up the base and action so nothing is permanent then torque to 12 in lbs when dry I torque all the way then shoot.

He's going to need an aiming point 46' above the target just to get to the bottom of his field of view. Another 25' might get him to the bottom of the reticle.

EDIT... just looked through the scope again and it's maybe 5-6 MOA field of view below the reticle which puts the bottom of his field of view about 27 MOA above the target which is about 54' out of view. How tall are the trees there?

 

[bigngreen]

I was thinking about 75ft or so, it sound like he has some terrain, if you have a hill behind the target to aim up on that would work. This way your really shooting at one target and scoring on another. The only way to aim at the main target and hit at that range seems to be something more extreme in the base or scope mounting system.
This sounds real fun but it could also be a real headache.

 

[Tyler Kemp]

I would shim your base. I shimmed a 25 moa base to about 60 for my 300 Weatherby so I had PLENTY of elevation for a mile and well beyond.

 

[MontanaRifleman]

I would shim your base. I shimmed a 25 moa base to about 60 for my 300 Weatherby so I had PLENTY of elevation for a mile and well beyond.

There's an idea. He needs about a 40 MOA shim.

Now what about when the bullet goes sub sonic?

 

[liltank]

That is why I suggested the Z-Rings from Burris. With shimming you have to be careful shim the whole base in an even taper. If you don't it will cause binding on your scope. The rings allow the scope to rotate within the rings in the amount of taper you want without shimming the base. +20 and -20 will give you the 40MOA you will need.

Tank

 

[Topshot]

Ok, thanks for some great advice.


Now normally I would not consider shooting this distance but this is such a great location. In the photo below you can see me shooting at a 1000 yard target at the location.
This cleared fire break goes back for another 2000 yards behind me and has been graded to remove most vegetation. Any bullets that strike the ground show up with a big burst of dust and are very easy to see. I have a spot pegged out 1285 yards behind where this photo was taken from.

The area behind the target is also graded and I can set up an aiming mark, (say a water drum), way back up behind the target. This I hope will give me enough elevation to make up for the limitations of my scope and 20 MOA rail.

As I am in the Southern Hemisphere, and the direction of the shot will be on a bearing of 7 degrees. I have worked out Coriolis of 22" left and +3" elevation which is nothing. A 1: 10 twist barrel gives me a spin drift of 66" right. So only 44" right drift to worry about if it is dead still. Anyone agree with these figures? If it is not dead still, I wont shoot till I get a morning when it is.

This is just shooting for fun so no harm in giving it a go. I think time of flight will be 4.5 second so we may have to wait a while for the dust to fly.

I will take some photo's on the morning when I do the shooting and post the results. Should be interesting!

 

[bigngreen]

I got 59 in of spin drift and about 14 in for Coriolis for a grand total of 115 MOA up and 1.9 left. Velocity 923.8 fps, 4.55 TOF. It will be interesting how it does going trans sonic, some come out of it and some hit the dirt.
The numbers seem close considering the nut doing the data input and the range.
That is an awesome spot, I can see why you can't pass it up. Absolutely perfect

 

[4xforfun]

Why won't this work (but be gentle on me)?

First.....the NSX R1 retical marks are 1 moa at 22x. Then they are 2 MOA at 11X, and 4 MOA at 5.5x. 4x20= 60 MOA of holdover + the 61 MOA of dial up gives you 120+ MOA of elevation to work with. Just back the scope off to 5.5, dial up to your max (you must know how far that will get you), and just hold over for the rest.

Granted, you may have a hell of a time seeing your target, but you should have plenty of time to dial up to see the impact.

Again, be gentle!!!!

 

[theodore]

Shooting at a shiny object 2285 yards on 5.5 power? Sounds like a plan!

 

[Topshot]

Why won't this work (but be gentle on me)?

First.....the NSX R1 retical marks are 1 moa at 22x. Then they are 2 MOA at 11X, and 4 MOA at 5.5x. 4x20= 60 MOA of holdover + the 61 MOA of dial up gives you 120+ MOA of elevation to work with. Just back the scope off to 5.5, dial up to your max (you must know how far that will get you), and just hold over for the rest.

Granted, you may have a hell of a time seeing your target, but you should have plenty of time to dial up to see the impact.

Again, be gentle!!!!

Good thinking 4xforfun.
I don't think I would shoot on 5.5 power, but it sure gives me a good idea.

I will be able to use this idea to help me work out where my aiming mark needs to be further back up the hill. It will also quickly tell me if this plan is at all possible.
I will go and check it out tomorrow.
Also need to recheck my elevation turret range, seems strange only 61 MOA of elevation travel left.

 

[MontanaRifleman]

Why won't this work (but be gentle on me)?

First.....the NSX R1 retical marks are 1 moa at 22x. Then they are 2 MOA at 11X, and 4 MOA at 5.5x. 4x20= 60 MOA of holdover + the 61 MOA of dial up gives you 120+ MOA of elevation to work with. Just back the scope off to 5.5, dial up to your max (you must know how far that will get you), and just hold over for the rest.

Granted, you may have a hell of a time seeing your target, but you should have plenty of time to dial up to see the impact.

Again, be gentle!!!!

This is a good idea IMO. I have scoped rocks and such @ around 1500 yds with my scope set on 5.5x I would think you should be able to see a piece of plywood on that power @ 2285 yds. It would minimize parallax and mirage. Interesting...

 

[Shawn Carlock]

We have used this same technique for shoot really long. As long as the target is still big enough to quarter with the crosshairs it works fine. We used a 40 moa base and turned down to 11x and it worked fine. I did have trouble using the bottom of the reticule for aiming, seems for me at least that the act of looking at the target through bottom of the circle as it were caused some definition issues for me. Good luck with this.

Also 60 some moa is about right for a 20 moa base. You will also find that everything is ultra critical at these ranges. Every mile an hour of wind will probably be in the 30" of drift range and you will have to know to the yard the distance. Looking at you spot try not to shoot with a head or tail wind your success will be much better.

 

[4xforfun]

Hey, Look ma......A math major!!!! 4x20=60 ?????????????????????????



4x20=80lightbulb

80 + 60 = 140 MOA.

If I think about it some more, I may be able to squeez out another 20 MOA or so!!!

Just give me time

 

[bigngreen]

Hey, Look ma......A math major!!!! 4x20=60 ?????????????????????????



4x20=80lightbulb

80 + 60 = 140 MOA.

If I think about it some more, I may be able to squeez out another 20 MOA or so!!!

Just give me time

When my brain is smoking that usually means I over looked the simple sollution. Good call!!!