Muzzle brake woes and copper projectiles

[Snowbird]

I've chased my tail for too long. the very first round i tried in my 7mm was a 160gr factory accubond. it shot .2-.34 groups at 100yd. i would have stopped there but i wanted an all copper projectile for hunting. the 139lrx shot an occasional .75 group but wasn't consistent and the 160tsx/168vdl had 2-5" groups at 200yd. the groups opening up seem to be the result of adding a new muzzle brake (jp tank). the factory brake from fierce grouped better and was much lighter weight. after adding the heavier jp tank i was able to shoot a 6" 3 shot at 700 with the lrx, which showed promise. the next time out, the bullets were flying. after trouble shooting scope, mounts, barrel contact, action screws, myself, etc. i went back to the accubond and the factory muzzle brake. it shot a .33" group. i threw on the jp tank and the group opened up to about 2". the first shot was always a flyer with this brake as a cold bore shot. full disclosure, i did bore out the brake to comfortably shoot at 30 cal and sanded down any burrs. i still believe the weight may have affected the harmonics. it's a shame because i had no issue spotting hits at 100 yards with this brake. my factory radial has a bit of flip and plenty of dust blow up to prevent spotting hits.

so, now i'm back to the decision of shooting the accubonds or selling the gun and finding something to shoot a copper bullet. how much lead do accubonds really shed when shooting lungs? my small sample size of 1 cow with an accubond was a double lung pass though with no blood trail.

 

[cohunt]

You could try a brake from mbm-- they are lighter and shorter (closer to you factory brake,)

No guarantee though they wont change the harmonics also.

At this time I'd stick with the accubond, they are good bullets as they are a bonded lead core.

 

[snox801]

Accubonds will be fine. If you can get them to shoot with the brake you should be able to get it with something else. Maybe not just the Barnes.
Would be worth a box of hammers if you want all copper. By far the best Bullets I've ever tried. Really a large step up over the Barnes. So if they shoot it's a win win. If not don't be worried on the noslers they will do fine

 

[ShtrRdy]

To double check -- you're using factory loaded ammo, yes?

 

[Snowbird]

To double check -- you're using factory loaded ammo, yes?

the 160gr accubonds are factory and the barnes 139gr lrx is factory. the berger 168vld-h are reloads and the 160 tsx are reloads. tried h1000 and h4831 in each without doing a ladder test. just a few different conservative loads .5 gr apart.

 

[OhYtD]

I have brakes on most of my large rifles including a couple .300 RUM and .338 RUM rifles. I firmly believe they make you a better shot, both in practice and in the field. I have watched the bullet impact the animal many times while shooting a braked rifle. Instant feedback on whether another shot is needed.

I put electrical tape over the muzzle including the brake to keep the dirt and debris out of the barrel. I also wrap another 12" or so around the barrel near the end of the forearm for replacement of the tape while in the field.

I have used the Vias brake, the Centershot rifle brake and lately I have been using the Straight Shot Gunsmithing brake. The Vias brake keeps the barrel contour and blends nicely, the others are a little larger on the sides than the barrel, but no problems in scabbards. The side discharge brakes seem to work better and don't kick up as much dust when shot prone.

Put a brake on, wear ear protection and enjoy the benefits.

 

[Love a Weatherby]

I've chased my tail for too long. the very first round i tried in my 7mm was a 160gr factory accubond. it shot .2-.34 groups at 100yd. i would have stopped there but i wanted an all copper projectile for hunting. the 139lrx shot an occasional .75 group but wasn't consistent and the 160tsx/168vdl had 2-5" groups at 200yd. the groups opening up seem to be the result of adding a new muzzle brake (jp tank). the factory brake from fierce grouped better and was much lighter weight. after adding the heavier jp tank i was able to shoot a 6" 3 shot at 700 with the lrx, which showed promise. the next time out, the bullets were flying. after trouble shooting scope, mounts, barrel contact, action screws, myself, etc. i went back to the accubond and the factory muzzle brake. it shot a .33" group. i threw on the jp tank and the group opened up to about 2". the first shot was always a flyer with this brake as a cold bore shot. full disclosure, i did bore out the brake to comfortably shoot at 30 cal and sanded down any burrs. i still believe the weight may have affected the harmonics. it's a shame because i had no issue spotting hits at 100 yards with this brake. my factory radial has a bit of flip and plenty of dust blow up to prevent spotting hits.

so, now i'm back to the decision of shooting the accubonds or selling the gun and finding something to shoot a copper bullet. how much lead do accubonds really shed when shooting lungs? my small sample size of 1 cow with an accubond was a double lung pass though with no blood trail.

 

[Wolf76]

I've chased my tail for too long. the very first round i tried in my 7mm was a 160gr factory accubond. it shot .2-.34 groups at 100yd. i would have stopped there but i wanted an all copper projectile for hunting. the 139lrx shot an occasional .75 group but wasn't consistent and the 160tsx/168vdl had 2-5" groups at 200yd. the groups opening up seem to be the result of adding a new muzzle brake (jp tank). the factory brake from fierce grouped better and was much lighter weight. after adding the heavier jp tank i was able to shoot a 6" 3 shot at 700 with the lrx, which showed promise. the next time out, the bullets were flying. after trouble shooting scope, mounts, barrel contact, action screws, myself, etc. i went back to the accubond and the factory muzzle brake. it shot a .33" group. i threw on the jp tank and the group opened up to about 2". the first shot was always a flyer with this brake as a cold bore shot. full disclosure, i did bore out the brake to comfortably shoot at 30 cal and sanded down any burrs. i still believe the weight may have affected the harmonics. it's a shame because i had no issue spotting hits at 100 yards with this brake. my factory radial has a bit of flip and plenty of dust blow up to prevent spotting hits.

so, now i'm back to the decision of shooting the accubonds or selling the gun and finding something to shoot a copper bullet. how much lead do accubonds really shed when shooting lungs? my small sample size of 1 cow with an accubond was a double lung pass though with no blood trail.

Accubonds are a very good all around bullet. They usually retain 60-70% of their original weight. IMO some fragmentation is a good thing (Berger bullets demonstrate this).
That said, mono bullets also get the job done. I've not had them shoot as accurate, but haven't tried them all. Hammers are on my"try soon" list.
Elk are a little tricky when it comes to blood tails. The big chest cavity can and does hold a lot of blood before it starts to spill.
Muzzle brakes: your gun sounds like a fickle -itch. Sometimes that's just the cards your dealt. The good news is you found a great load. Sell the other brakes and take a sigh of relief.

 

[Love a Weatherby]

OK I think I know your problem no 1 it could be your scope , rings bases , loose number 2 your floor plate screws, no 3 your rifle bedding check your rifles bedding , it may be it doesn't have any not sure what make or model you have , no 4 if it's just one of the cheap synthetic stocks not a bedding block , or if it's wood and pressure point take a dollar slide it under your barrel to the pressure point , if it slides under it you need to have it looked at , I had these problems once or twice and I re bed the rifles , making sure I had the right fit for my actions from the inlet all way down barrel channel , no rocking forward abd back motion in the stock , if it has a bedding block in it , it need bedoing in it really do it the bed remove it and start over fresh let it setc for a week or 2 and cure don't put it together if you feel you don't untill then , then torque your screws 30 inch pound from rear to front then up to 60 inch pounds on both screws with a bedding block free floated rifle, point to remember it's best to use stud sscrews in the front I use the them in front or you can use your stock screw in rear , but make sure to hold your action nice and snug in Stock use a clamps to hold in place and get a good straight barrel down the stocks barrel channel with equal room , your accuracy will come to the rifle after it process is cured ,

 

[Snowbird]

Weatherby,

The rifle is a fierce fury and sure does seem fickle. It's always shot well with the accubonds and seemed to shoot ok with the lrx w/o muzzle brake. I like the accubond but was looking for a non toxic alternative. Hammers might work well but I'm honestly tired of testing this rifle. I has a nice carbon stock with pillars and action bedded. Action screws are at 58lbs, scope rings are 20 in lb, bases are 30in lb and everything seems right. Not seeing any crown damage either. The fact that it shoots the factory accubond load so we'll is perplexing. I'm half tempted to sell this one and buy 2 tikkas with brakes and call it good. My Tikka 270wsm shoots fine but wanted to try something new with similar qualities. Decisions.

 

[TwoMore]

forgive me for asking, I hope I am not to presumptuous but who installed the brake, and was it bored concentric to the bore of the barrel?

 

[Snowbird]

forgive me for asking, I hope I am not to presumptuous but who installed the brake, and was it bored concentric to the bore of the barrel?

That's a possible issue. I installed it with a jam nut and had to bore it out. I did that in the field without my drill press. I guess I should clean that up.

Any other suggestions on lite weight brakes with side baffels that reduce muzzle flip as well as the jp tank?

 

[TwoMore]

I use side ports on all of my rifles, even my smaller rifles. but I single point bore the brakes on the barrel in the lathe with the barrel bore running as close to 0 TIR as I can get. its important that the bullet comes thru the center of the brakes bore.I would bet if you cleaned that up it would shoot as well with or without the brake

 

[Snowbird]

I use side ports on all of my rifles, even my smaller rifles. but I single point bore the brakes on the barrel in the lathe with the barrel bore running as close to 0 TIR as I can get. its important that the bullet comes thru the center of the brakes bore.I would bet if you cleaned that up it would shoot as well with or without the brake

I bet it would help. The reloads did not shoot well without any brake and with a factory radial.