Long Range Flat shooter??????

Discussion in 'Long Range Hunting & Shooting' started by Curt, Feb 1, 2006.

  1. Curt

    Curt Member

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    Hello, I am new to the board but I have a question. I have a Pre 64 Winchester in 270 that I'm itching to "improve". I would like to go to a 280 Rem AI or 6.5 280 Rem AI. Looking for this to be mostly a long range mule deer round. Looking to rebarrel and restock so that I can restore the winchester to original condition at anytime. Oh yea I'm looking to go to a med to hvy 26" fluted barrel probably Pac-nor but anysuggestions would be great. Also recomendations on synthetic stocks would be good to, I'm familar with the HS precision stocks and like them very much, any others that I should look at? Thanks in advance for the info!
     
  2. Black Diamond 408

    Black Diamond 408 Well-Known Member

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    Bearcat:

    Welcome! You will find all kinds of info on this board, do some searching through old threads. I would say to build a 6.5-06 Use a Lija 3 groove bbl, you will get better life out of it. I have built lots of customs on the pre-64 actions, they make great hunting rifles! Stocks, well look at McMillan, Lone Wolf...there are numerous makers out there. Have fun!
     

  3. Mysticplayer

    Mysticplayer Writers Guild

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    As much as I love the 6.5, I would suggest the 280AI or 7Mystic (see my post elsewhere). Heavier bullets make a difference at extended distances. Also, the 7mm SST and Amax offer some of the highest BC's in a hunting bullet.

    Jerry
     
  4. wapiti13

    wapiti13 Well-Known Member

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    I agree with Jerry that the 280 AI is a great way to go. Do a search as there was a long discussion on the 280AI just a couple of months ago. Basically, a 7mm Mag in an '06 case! Easy to load, great accuracy, and bullet selection. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  5. bjlooper

    bjlooper Well-Known Member

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    Why don't you try rechambering to .270 AI you wouldn't need a new barrel. Also Kevin Weaver Restores pre 64 stocks unless it's in really bad shape he can make it look new.
    A pre 64 in syn stock is just another rifle in a syn stock.

    WEAVER RIFLES
    16850 SAGE CREEK ROAD
    PEYTON, COLO. 80831
    719-683-3024
    kevin@weaverrifles.com
    http://www.weaverrifles.com/
     
  6. royinidaho

    royinidaho Writers Guild

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    What Jerry said.
     
  7. budlight

    budlight Well-Known Member

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    I'm a 270 AI fan. The AI has just enough more powder to really get the bullets moving, but not enough to put it in the 1000 round barrel burner class. 26 + inch barrels are really nice.

    The backwards conversion /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif Why would you spend money to improve a gun and then want to change it back?

    Just look at how beautiful these Allen mags are on this forum. Then look at a pre 64. A functional gun is worth more to me than even some $50,000 dollar Safari grade double rifle.
     
  8. Curt

    Curt Member

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    Thanks guys for all the great advice, but now I have more questions. I've done a search for the 280 AI and turned up some information, but the search is bringing up alot of other stuff too. Anyway it sounds like I should stay with the 280AI since I don't want to rechamber the original barrel. I am leaning towards a Pacnor barrel in the Remington varmint contour and 26" long, I think I need a 1-10 twist for shooting up to 150-160g bullets. Mostly I think I will be shooting 130-140g bullets. Pacnor offers alot of different barrels from 3,5,6 groove and they offer a polygonal rifleing also. What would be the advantage to one of these goove barrels over the polygonal rifleing or visa vesa. Also fluted or no fluted barrel.

    As far as the reverse conversion goes, you never know what may come down the road and if the pre 64 is worth more in its original state than I can always "restore" it to that state if I keep the old barrel and stock. Again guys thats for the info and keep it coming!
     
  9. ILIKA308

    ILIKA308 Active Member

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    I HAVE A 280AI WITH A SCHNEIDER BARREL ON IT. MR SCHNEIDER BUILDS SOME OF THE BEST 7MM BARRELS ON THIS PLANET. 1 IN 10 OR 1 IN 9 WILL DO WHAT YOU NEED TO DO. JUST MY OPINION.
     
  10. Bart B

    Bart B Well-Known Member

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    The most accurate barrels I know of have 4 or 5 conventional grooves.

    And none of 'em are fluted. Fluting a barrel changes its bore/groove diameters; moreso at the ends of the flutes than between the ends. A fluted barrel is less stiff than one of the same diameters and countours than a solid one because metal's been removed from its outside. A fluted barrel of the same weight and basic contour of a solid one is typically less than 5% stiffer; not enough to be critical.

    And fluted barrels don't cool as fast as a coarse sand blasted one. If any barrel is properly stress relieved after rifling it won't bend when it gets hot.

    If one must have a fluted barrel, I think it's best to have the unrifled blank fluted before it's rifled, then cut rifle the bore, then stress relieved and lapped to uniform bore and groove diameters. Krieger and Obermeyer do this better than anyone else.
     
  11. Northman

    Northman Well-Known Member

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    If you are going to shoot mainly in 130-140 grain, I would go 6,5. The new sirrico II 130 grains has a BC of .571..

    Maybe a 6,5-06. Only gives 200 fps more than a 260


    The 7mm is nice from 140-150 in a 7-08 with hunting bullets in .5++ BC. If you want a higer bullet weight, you need to step up to 280. I would go for a 280AI just for the fun of it. You only get 100-200 fps more with a 24"-26" barrel. But thats almost equal of the 7mm Rem Mag with 10 grains less powder.

    But, since you have along action, the 6,5-06 or 280AI, seems to give the best compromise. Where I live, the minimum weight of a bullet is 140 grain, so my pick would be a 280AI.
     
  12. uncleB

    uncleB Well-Known Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    The most accurate barrels I know of have 4 or 5 conventional grooves.

    And none of 'em are fluted. Fluting a barrel changes its bore/groove diameters; moreso at the ends of the flutes than between the ends. A fluted barrel is less stiff than one of the same diameters and countours than a solid one because metal's been removed from its outside. A fluted barrel of the same weight and basic contour of a solid one is typically less than 5% stiffer; not enough to be critical.

    And fluted barrels don't cool as fast as a coarse sand blasted one. If any barrel is properly stress relieved after rifling it won't bend when it gets hot.

    If one must have a fluted barrel, I think it's best to have the unrifled blank fluted before it's rifled, then cut rifle the bore, then stress relieved and lapped to uniform bore and groove diameters. Krieger and Obermeyer do this better than anyone else.

    [/ QUOTE ]I think I could dis agree with almost everything you posted but to keep Len's Living room happy I'll leave it at that.
    UB
     
  13. royinidaho

    royinidaho Writers Guild

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    Yep...
     
  14. Desert Fox

    Desert Fox Well-Known Member

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    If I were you, my choice would be the 280 AI. You'll have better selection on bullets. For long range, Nosler Ballistic Tip 140 or 150 grain are hard to beat. My first long range rig was a rebarreled 1909 Argentine Mauser chambered for 280 Remington. The 24" Douglas in No.4 contour is very accurate. If you preferred Pac-Nor, I suggest get their Super-Match. I have a 25"-3 grove Pac-Nor 1 in 12 twist on my 308 and it's an excellent barrel. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif