Lathe Accuracy Testing?
- Thread starter Mram10us
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
You can't just tell the maintenance department to take care of that? Haha
Are you just talking concentricity between the tailstock and headstock? So if you had .0001" or less runout on a 4 jaw chuck what would your runout be on something that you had dialed in on and turned concentric within .0001"? What distance are you talking between? You said alignment but I you could be concentric but not square to the machine travel.
Example being runout < .0001 but Being shifted a few thou in an axial direction.
Are you just talking concentricity between the tailstock and headstock? So if you had .0001" or less runout on a 4 jaw chuck what would your runout be on something that you had dialed in on and turned concentric within .0001"? What distance are you talking between? You said alignment but I you could be concentric but not square to the machine travel.
Example being runout < .0001 but Being shifted a few thou in an axial direction.
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
Doing a accuracy check for a lathe doesn't take long as long as there is nothing wrong, so I try to check it every time I start a new project. Although I may not do it ever time I try. If I find something off then I don't start until EVERYTHING is checked. This may take several hours, but fixing a problem on a build normally takes much longer and can get expensive.
I don't know if there is a normal time/schedule to check your machine, I would think it would depend on the quality of the lathe. If something stupid like leaving a chuck key in the chuck and turning the lathe on, I would Highly recommend a complete set up and
alignment check before any work is done.
J E CUSTOM
I don't know if there is a normal time/schedule to check your machine, I would think it would depend on the quality of the lathe. If something stupid like leaving a chuck key in the chuck and turning the lathe on, I would Highly recommend a complete set up and
alignment check before any work is done.
J E CUSTOM
birdiemc
Well-Known Member
I'm gonna be doing this sometime in the next couple weeks on my new lathe once I get it leveled.
I've not done enough precise work for it to matter on my old one so it had been about 2 years before I ran a test bar last month in preparation for cutting my first chamber. It was out by just under .002...so definitely needed a tune up.
I've not done enough precise work for it to matter on my old one so it had been about 2 years before I ran a test bar last month in preparation for cutting my first chamber. It was out by just under .002...so definitely needed a tune up.
Gwine
Well-Known Member
A little off topic but involves the keys. We have a client that builds hyd cylinders and has 4 large lathes. I built them key holders that will not allow the machine to start without the keys in them.
birdiemc
Well-Known Member
That's pretty slick. That should just be standard on every lathe. I've never left one in, because everybody I've ever been around has beat it into my head never leave the key in the chuck ever. the guy I've learned from the most throughout my life brings it up in every discussion we have about lathes. And it has served me well
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
They also make a spring loaded key that will not stay in the chuck without depressing it with your hand and if you take the pressure off it will disengage from the chuck. I personally don't like the spring loaded chuck and don't use one, but it is a good tool for someone just starting out.
https://www.google.com/search?q=spr....1.69i57j0.18245j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Being old school Like others have said i remove the chuck key after the work is secure and never take my hand off of it to prevent a disaster.
J E CUSTOM
https://www.google.com/search?q=spr....1.69i57j0.18245j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Being old school Like others have said i remove the chuck key after the work is secure and never take my hand off of it to prevent a disaster.
J E CUSTOM
