Help a Gal new to reloading and LR shooting

The Hock's last bullet point is important: find or make your own flow sheet that documents every step of your reloading process, with blanks that you fill in as you work a group of empty cases through the steps. That way, if you are interrupted before completing the rounds, you will know where you left off. On this flow sheet have a place to document the brand of brass, number of times fired, bullet mfr and type (I record the bullet model number from the box), the primer brand and type, powder brand and type as well as the charge weight(s) used, trimmed case length, total length of the completed cartridge ("COAL") and results of firing each powder charge: Muzzle velocity of the rounds (individually or in strings), mean, standard, extreme spread. Some people also save the targets and label them, so they can look back and see the grouping of the bullet holes.
The one very important tool I haven't seen mentioned so far: a chronograph! Almost everybody is using Magnetospeed or Lab Radar these days. There are numerous discussions on here comparing the merits of the two.
 
LaHunter said:
Reloading manuals, get several. Nosler & Sierra are good ones.
Also, check out the Sierra website. They go through the various steps of the process and explain it. Also,

Single Stage Press: RCBS & Redding make good ones. I have the RCBS press and have been happy with it. I have read good things about the Hornady press, but have no experience with it. There are others, but not sure one is really better than the other at making precision rifle ammo.

Dies: I use Full Length (FL) sizing dies. I use Redding dies and have been happy with them. RCBS and Hornady are other choices.

Redding Competition Shell Holders: These allow you to use FL sizing dies and not over size the brass. Google Jeff Brozovich (Broz) and he has some youtube videos explaining these. He has other good videos on reloading that are really good.

Redding Competition Seating Die: This is the bullet seating die that allows precise seating depth and precision adjustments. Also, this die helps keep the bullet aligned for proper seating. Fairly expensive, but I think it is worth it.

Powder Scale: There are digital / automatic scales that work well. I use an 'old school' RCBS balance beam scale. The beam scale is slower and more tedious, but I think it is a little more precise.

Brass Cleaning: I use a dry tumbler with treated corn cobb media. Many options here.

Depriming Brass: I use a Lyman depriming die. I treat this as a separate step.

Brass Lube: I use the RCBS lube pad. This takes a little practice. Too much lube or lube on the shoulder area, and you will crush some brass. Some like the spray on lube and it seems to work well for them.

Brass Lube for inside of neck: I use the Imperial Graphite lube. This allows the mouth sizing tool to slide easily through the inside of the case neck / mouth.

Hornady Lock n Load Head Space Gauge: This allows you to measure your brass from the base to the datum line on the shoulder. This is for headspace clearance. There are youtube videos that explain the purpose and instructions clearly.

Hornady Lock n Load Bullet Comparator: This is used for measuring Cartridge Base To Ogive (CBTO). This is the key measurement for bullet seating. Critical factor in load development.

Digital Caliper: Many options here. You can get them from Home Depot or Amazon, or you can get one from one of the reloading suppliers. Not sure one is better than the other.

Brass Trimming: I use an RCBS trimmer, the one with the manual hand crank. It is like a really small lathe. All my brass go through this step.

Priming: I use the RCBS priming tool. There are many option for this.

This should get you started. I recommend reading and watching many videos of how others do it and understand why each step is important. There are many different ways to reload rifle ammo, so you will need to decide what is best for you, this is where understanding what each step is accomplishing and why (or why not) it is important for you.

Hope this helps & Good Luck
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The above is an outstanding outline and list of what it takes. Read it, study it and the recommendations, then make the decision on what you want to use. IMHO opinion, if you are precision reloading, a single stage press gives you the most control over each step. I use a digital powder dispenser and then use a beam balance scale to verify it. Once they agree - the BB taking precedence, I recheck every ten rounds for consistency. Good luck and enjoy!
 
I use a check list to make sure I do the same thing every time, and so I don't skip something. I keep a log of every load - filing each checklist. I update or modify as I learn more, or someone comes up with info of I like. Starting off - IMHO you should use a reloading manual, not other people load data, at least until you have a little experience under your belt, even better is having more than one to bounce against each other, to get YOUR specific loads. My goals: consistency, safety and have fun!
 
Bill Hamilton said:
Most important: reloading manuals - I have most of them and particularly like Hornady and Lyman. All the basics are covered. Google "reloading presses" - there are good comparative tests; I think the RCBS was near the top in one of the tests. Just buy basics to begin and then see what you might want to add after loading and shooting some ammo for a year or two.
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I agree with alot of what has been said here. One place you can watch for comparing 14 different presses was Ultimate Reloader as he compared many presses. He also has alot of tips. I personally started on my own and have up graded alot and have learned alot over the years. I started with a Hornady sinlge stage and also a Hornady Progressive but I sold them and I now run a Redding T7 turret press. I have used different dies but now mainly run Redding, Foster and some RCBS dies. If you have a chance I to would recomend a mentor(s). There are several good You tube videos but as you gain in knowledge you will find the ones who are more professional. Any piece of equipment will have videos on how to use them. Reloading manuals are very good as well. I buy the new Hogdon manuals every year as hey keep up with new calibers and a full of info. Start slow and becarefull and you will fully enjoy this new challenge. If you are buying a new Ga Precision rifle I would asume you have money so shop around. You will upgrade as you gain knowledge as we all have. Nice elk and great pictures. Enjoy your new endeavor.
 
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Hatrick said:
V, Did you shoot competition in shotgun?
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I did for a brief time as a young person. I shot some competition sporting clays and skeet. I have been teaching advanced pistol and shotgun instruction for 20+ years now. I did 8 years as a state trooper and nearing the end of my career as a federal agent. Spent a lot of time behind the pistol... still fun, but not near as fun as reaching out to the distance rifles offer. Best, Victoria
 
Lethal_Chica said:
No issues there. I have lived all over the US with my career. I prefer the politics of the south and the west. Just suits me better. I travel to Wyoming a few times a year and it has been my favorite place of all the states I have spent time in.
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-15 today in Rawlins but beautiful place to live.
 
So much good information here, I'll add a couple small variations that I haven't seen listed that work for me.

FYI, I bought an RCBS Supreme kit and still use most of the pieces.

Here's my process

-Decap with a decapping die
-Sonic clean in cleaning solution (1st deviation from what I have seen listed) this gets most of the carbon out of the primer pocket and inside of the case.
-anneal to maintain consistent neck tension, preserve brass, and dry. I use an Anealeez. It's cheap, it works, and it sounds like you are going to shoot enough that it will pay for itself in a few years by increasing your brass life.
-lube
-neck size with Redding full length bushing dies bump shoulder as necessary
-Prime
-graphite neck lube for better bullet seating
-charge
-seat bullets with Wilson dies and Arbor press (2nd variation in the process) these seating dies are comparably priced to other premium seating dies, the only additional investment is the arbor press and that is relatively small. I feel that I get better concentricity with these dies and you have more feel for neck tension than you do on a press with more mechanical advantage. It's also small enough that you can have it on the bench with you at the range to do seating depth testing.
-measure concentricity with Sinclair gauge
-Bang
 
Lethal_Chica said:
No issues there. I have lived all over the US with my career. I prefer the politics of the south and the west. Just suits me better. I travel to Wyoming a few times a year and it has been my favorite place of all the states I have spent time in.
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Lethal_Chica said:
Now that is funny...
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On a more serious note, WELCOME! Long over due and much needed! I hope you will jump in and help us guys do a better job in making this sport more appealing and open to gals. And those photos, seriously, amazing. Thanks again
 
stljc2 said:
1st and foremost..A good reloading manual..no matter who's. Sierra, Hornady, Berger...best to buy one that is the manufacturer of the bullets you want to utilize. Most all will have some info on the internet for reference...powder makers also. Then READ...READ it ALL cover to cover in the preface about reloading. Then research can be done for the twist needed to make the bullet weight desired stabilize properly.

As far as a press go's I utilize a Forster Co-Ax. It's a little bit more than a RCBS rock chucker, of which I used for 30 or so years, but I find I really like the set up. No screwing in the die every time you want to reload. Set it up once and start working....need to switch dies...just do it. If your other die is set ya just slip it in and away you go, no base to buy either. It's true they recommend you using their rings in lieu of the ones that come with the die, Forsters' are aluminum...the others are steel. They explain why with the set. In al reality...a single stage is best, imo, to start out with.

Dies...almost any die will give good service. I like the Redding 3 die sets. Full sizing or neck sizing die and a micrometer adjustable seating die in the set.

A good quality caliper. I like digital but some don't..your choice of course.

Good set of bullet comparators, I utilize Hornady but any QUALITY manufacturer is good.

An overall bullet length gauge...of good quality..use every time you change a bullet weight, type.

A modified cartridge case...some make their own..some buy them You tube is your friend if you decide to make yours.

A Good beam scale..A auto throw dispenser is quicker and usually has a trickler mode. I still use a beam to check my loads every 1st run of a weight and every time I change powders or caliber.

Champhering / deburring tool, primer pocket cleaning brush, neck cleaning brush, sizing lube and pad if your using one that requires it.

Good quality brass, at the least a vibratory tumbler with walnut or corncob grit.

At the least a bullet puller...hammer type works well...dies are better..your choice.

A chronograph to record bullet speed, Sd, Es and average velocity. IF you want consistency in your handloads at a speed that optimizes your bullets potential.


This should help get you started
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P.S. Where in the world are my manners...Welcome Victoria...Glad you decided to join in the conversations.
 
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