Help a Gal new to reloading and LR shooting

[Lethal_Chica]

Ok, so please forgive my newness and lack of knowledge. I have been lurking on this site for a long time and I have enjoyed gleaning information from so many of you. Long time waterfowler here, turned into a rifle hunter the last few years. I just finished an amazing backcountry elk hunt in the Washakie Wilderness in Wyoming that took everything I had. I was lucky enough to tag a 6x6 at 440 yards with a customized Tikka T3 in 270 WSM using a 150 grain ABLR. Amazing hunt.. and has me pining for more.

So when I got home, I ordered a GA Precision 6.5 SAUM. I've shot one a few times and loved it. I intend to reload the ammo, but I am a total novice. I have reloaded thousands and thousands of rounds of shotgun, but this rifle stuff is completely different. I want to make sure I buy the right reloading gear off the bat, so I am not having to buy again down the road. Any recommendations on a reloading press and the associated accoutrements are much appreciated. I figure many of you have determined what works and what doesn't at this point. So please, share a list of Gear I need to purchase. This will be my winter project until my rifle arrives in early spring. I appreciate it! Best, V

P.S. Photos are from my most recent elk hunt! Thanks for looking and any advice you can give.

 

[LaHunter]

Reloading manuals, get several. Nosler & Sierra are good ones.
Also, check out the Sierra website. They go through the various steps of the process and explain it. Also,

Single Stage Press: RCBS & Redding make good ones. I have the RCBS press and have been happy with it. I have read good things about the Hornady press, but have no experience with it. There are others, but not sure one is really better than the other at making precision rifle ammo.

Dies: I use Full Length (FL) sizing dies. I use Redding dies and have been happy with them. RCBS and Hornady are other choices.

Redding Competition Shell Holders: These allow you to use FL sizing dies and not over size the brass. Google Jeff Brozovich (Broz) and he has some youtube videos explaining these. He has other good videos on reloading that are really good.

Redding Competition Seating Die: This is the bullet seating die that allows precise seating depth and precision adjustments. Also, this die helps keep the bullet aligned for proper seating. Fairly expensive, but I think it is worth it.

Powder Scale: There are digital / automatic scales that work well. I use an 'old school' RCBS balance beam scale. The beam scale is slower and more tedious, but I think it is a little more precise.

Brass Cleaning: I use a dry tumbler with treated corn cobb media. Many options here.

Depriming Brass: I use a Lyman depriming die. I treat this as a separate step.

Brass Lube: I use the RCBS lube pad. This takes a little practice. Too much lube or lube on the shoulder area, and you will crush some brass. Some like the spray on lube and it seems to work well for them.

Brass Lube for inside of neck: I use the Imperial Graphite lube. This allows the mouth sizing tool to slide easily through the inside of the case neck / mouth.

Hornady Lock n Load Head Space Gauge: This allows you to measure your brass from the base to the datum line on the shoulder. This is for headspace clearance. There are youtube videos that explain the purpose and instructions clearly.

Hornady Lock n Load Bullet Comparator: This is used for measuring Cartridge Base To Ogive (CBTO). This is the key measurement for bullet seating. Critical factor in load development.

Digital Caliper: Many options here. You can get them from Home Depot or Amazon, or you can get one from one of the reloading suppliers. Not sure one is better than the other.

Brass Trimming: I use an RCBS trimmer, the one with the manual hand crank. It is like a really small lathe. All my brass go through this step.

Priming: I use the RCBS priming tool. There are many option for this.

This should get you started. I recommend reading and watching many videos of how others do it and understand why each step is important. There are many different ways to reload rifle ammo, so you will need to decide what is best for you, this is where understanding what each step is accomplishing and why (or why not) it is important for you.

Hope this helps & Good Luck

 

[cjuve]

I started out with a set like this 20 years ago and other than a few additional tools it is what I use today.

https://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-Rock-Chucker-Supreme-Master-Reloading-Kit/1324071.uts

Probably the tool that has made the most impact on the accuracy of my loads
https://www.brownells.com/reloading...ad-bullet-comparator-basic-set-prod35659.aspx

I also use the headspace gauges as well to get my dies set up.

I have also found micrometer seating dies and bushing dies to be the most useful.

 

[Bob Wright]

Keep your attention on this site in the classifieds and other sites as well. Lots of basic and advanced level items can be had at a decent price.
So,
Loading manual(s) and a good "how to" manual
You'll need a press
Die set
Powder dispenser and scale
A beam scale to monitor/verify charge weights of powder
Powder funnel for your cartridge charging
Primer install tool ( my RCBS press has one installed)
Dial calipers, digital or dial. Starrett or Mitutoyo come to mind.
Hornady bullet comparator and cartridge comparator that attach to your calipers
Hornady modified case for your 6.5 SAUM
Hornady chamber comparator tool that goes with the Hornady modified case.
Cleaning items for brass:
Vibrating Tumblers or stainless pin type tumblers
Cleaning solutions for tumblers
Decapping dies for spent brass

Certainly seek out a buddy that does this a lot and read all you can about general reloading and then more advanced. Safety is paramount!
There's probably many responses coming your way and things I/we miss along the way. But a good reloading how to book is good night time reading and bookmark it as you go along.
Welcome and enjoy your new hobby!

 

[sedancowboy]

I would recommend a Rock Chucker press mine has worked for 50 years. Buy a set of Redding Type S Full Length bushing dies with competition seater and be done read the directions that come with the dies. Also get on ADGs list to get some 6.5 SAUM brass on the next run it is the best SAUM brass made. I use a small cheap press to decap with a universal decaping die. It saves on your main press and is easier. Save your money from a tumbler and buy a annealer. To clean brass I simply wipe it off with a rag with Alcohol. Sizing lube is Hornady Unique it is made from lanolin and is good for your hands as well. No mess and Easy to wipe off with a alcohol rag. Priming is easier with a bench primer and RCBS makes a good one. Eventually you have to trim your cases and I use a RCBS bench trimmer. My largest improvement to low ES was purchasing a quality powder scale. Buy good set of Calipers. You will need a Deburr tool again RCBS. The rabbit hole is huge and the investment can be to. If you are having a custom gun built in a Long range cartridge then do it justice and provide it with quality ammo that will preform at distance. PM me some time for load data I have 2 6.5 SAUMs and they both are both hammers.

 

[SergeantD]

Great photos and congrats on the elk. I have never shot one... yet!

Redding T-3 turret press. Holds 7 dies at once.

Redding, Hornady or RCBS dies.

Redding or Hornady case trimmer.

21st Century or Frankfort Arsenal hand held primping tool.

Lyman flashhole, chamfer, deburr and primer pocket uniformed.

Frankford Arenal load blocks.

RCBS Chargemaster Lite.

Calipers.

Load manuals.

 

[yoteslayer]

I would buy rcbs or Redding if you guy a kit saves you a little money and has most of the stuff you need then you can just buy odds and ends as you need it me personally I wouldn't buy Hornady anything some off there stuff is alright and many have great luck with it but I have people bring equipment to me to try to fix and 99 percent of the time it's a Hornady product good job on the elk and good luck

 

[ShtrRdy]

There are many opinions on this topic. I have some RCBS equipment from the 70's, but these days I like to use Redding or Forster equipment. This would be for the press, the dies, case lube, and possibly a few other things like powder funnel, powder trickler, case trimer and powder dispenser - (disregard if you want to accurately measure how much powder for each load). An accurate scale - either beam or electronic. Get a good dial caliper. Oh, and a neck chamfering tool.

You might want to get some way to clean the cases but these days I'm just cleaning the outside of the neck with fine steel wool and the inside of the neck with a poly brush.

 

[Will Gray]

Double check everything. Don't visit with others while doing the work. Have only one type of powder on the bench at the time. After powdering look into each case with a flashlight to verify all appear to be the same level. Beware of loads where double charge is possible. As Yogi Berra said "you don't want to make the wrong mistake!" Enjoy the hobby!

 

[Orange Dust]

Best advice I can give you is to seek out a successful long range shooter in your area. F class, 1k bench, PRS, doesn't really matter, to be successful in any of these you have to know how to load precision ammo. Almost all the competitive shooters I know will willingly share all their secrets to someone new to the sport. They can save you a fortune in learning to load and in load development.

 

[CatShooter]

WOW... you guys sure are good at spending her money.

 

[rsbhunter]

I would think about how long you'll be reloading, and to what degree of "accuracy" matters....I have for many years used regular press, dies, etc. to load ammo that was totally acceptable, accuracy wise. If you're chasing the ultimate accuracy potential, or really just enjoy reloading (like the rest of us) , then that may require different choices..Whidden, Forster, Redding Competition dies, Hornady comparator tool, coaxial press will be worth the extra $$$ now. The value of used reloading tools drops pretty fast after buying them, unless they are upper tier tools. Read the loading manuals, stick to the info, and read the forums ....rsbhunter

 

[Revolting Peasant]

Nothing to forgive. We ALL started somewhere. None of us know it all. Some know more than others. Welcome to the rabbit hole.
YouTube, videos, DVDs, you can do it on your own but I still recommend finding a mentor if possible. Even if you can only find someone reloading regular rifle and pistol rounds, go watch and load a few with their equipment and method. Gun folks are generally the most giving and helpful you will ever meet. Some gun shops and stores will do weekend seminars on basic reloading. It is a lot easier to shop and set up if you understand the basic process already.
Take everything with a grain of salt. Find an expert already doing what you want to accomplish and emulate.
A lot of folks just wing it with the internet and make it work. It can be done.
All just my opinion and what works for me. You are in one of the best places to learn from some of the best. Good luck.
Long live Remmy700.

 

[DSheetz]

All responses are good so far . I bought an RCBS rock chucker kit a few years back and they come with pretty much every thing you need to get started . Dial calipers and comparators as well as head space gage are very useful . I like to hand seat my primers and a hand primer comes with the kit as well most of the time , so I can feel the primer seat . Good manuals are a must about all of the bullet manufactures produce them some better then others . If you watch youtube be aware that some of the sites aren't as good as others as we are all humans and express our opinions not always the facts . My powder trickler was given to me to me 40 years ago by an older guy that had made it by soldering a penny to the base of a 30-06 case he also gave me an old Herters balance beam scale . I use a Lee precision case trimmer for my cases they come for each caliber case and are consistent in trimming to the same length . I at times will still use 0000 steel wool to clean just the neck of my brass if I'm loading a few rounds and a bore brush to clean the inside of the neck . Inspect your brass for cracks around the base , neck and shoulder areas they usually look like a dark line when they first start .