FireNock on TAC15 arrow

[Mike K/NJ]

I'm having the same problem with the fletching, It kind of defeats the purpose of having the drop away rest if the arrows are hitting the cables. I think this is a design flaw that PSE needs to look into.

 

[altonsvnnh]

I asked for help (thanks for suggestions) in the removal of the factory nocks from my TAC15 arrows and here is how I solved my problem. I found a video on YouTube where the guy buys a 1/8" x 4' steel rod from Lowe's and cuts it in half. He then removes the broad head from the arrow and shoves the rod inside the arrow until it makes contact with the nock. He then holds the arrow with the steel rod inserted in one hand and gently taps the exposed end of the rod with a hammer and slowly drives the nock out of the arrow. I tried it and it works without damaging the arrow shaft or the factory nock. The nocks were not glued in place which made them easier to remove and they look to be reusable.

I also found that the FireNock nock is a little warped or oval shaped (not perfectly round) when it is assembled to the light circuit board making it difficult to install in the arrow shaft. I very carefully compressed the open end of the arrow just slightly with a pair of pliers making it oval shaped also which made it very easy to insert the assembled FireNock. The FireNock seems to fit very tightly without having to install the Bulldog collar. Tomorrow is the big test to see if I have a successful assembly or not.

I tested the FireNock operation by dropping it nock first about 6" onto my work bench top and the light turned on solid for about 6 seconds and then started flashing. I dropped it a second time about 6" on the work bench top and turned it off. I could not find a test anywhere on the FireNock instructions for turning the light on. I discovered it accidentally while assembling the arrows. Hope this info helps others.

 

[BKM]

OK, here is what I did. Cut the picatinny rail off back to where the HHA optimizer just has room to attach. You won't need it anyway as long as you intend to leave the optimizer on the bow. This will give you plenty of room for fletching clearance. Now strip your arrows and refletch them with 3 fletch low profile 3 inch vanes. Turn the cock feather up. You can also put a high degree of twist in the fletching. This will do wonders to stabilize your arrows. I did this to my Elite and it's working great. Paper tuned in only a few shots. No clearance problems between vanes and cables either. Not sure the 3 inch vanes will stabilize a fixed blade broadhead though. I shoot 85 gr mechanicals so I can't say about the fixed blades. I doubt it. I also have a drop away on my Elite. No more torn up shabby looking fletching. Hope this helps. Let me know.

 

[netman]

Im not sure if it makes a difference but I have Lumenocks rather than Firenocks. I picked them[arrows w nocks] up a couple days ago. I have yet to shoot them however upon reading some of these responses I better shoot the lumenocks and make sure they fly true.
It would suck with the rut approaching to have a 'last shot of a roman candle' type of accuracy when ol big boy shows up.

 

[vinceau]

The issue is not if I they will fly straight, it's whether they will embed into the shaft.

I finally got mine shooting straight but only after it blew up in my hand and had to be rebuilt. I also switched to the trophy ridge ultimate steel broad head which stopped the arrow planing issues. Now dead on out to 60. Haven't had a chance to try out farther but my hha tape only goes to 80 so I may have to use a blank strip.

We discovered that arrows are already starting to spin before they leave the bow. We believe that is the reason they are hitting the cable in the right side.

 

[netman]

Sorry... I said Lumenock they are actually Firenocks.

 

[netman]

vinceau, we are shooting the Ramcat 100 gr broadhead with very good accuracy. It was suggested by two PSE reps. I have killed two does with mine this year. One at 60 and one at 31 yds. Both were swift clean kills.