I use the RCBS drop tube (~4") with the swirl charge technique too! I started using that method to avoid compressed loads on other guns. I use a 22 cal insert for all calibers. I figured the 22 cal would slow the fill process and be helpful. I'm now wondering if I should try a matching insert for the caliber. Maybe the 22 call in the 6.5 SAUM case is too small a diameter vs. the case width. Just spit balling trying to come up with something else to try.
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MagnumManiac
Well-Known Member
I also use a 22 cal for everything, the swirl appears more consistent.
It is the best method I have ever found, even better than a long 6" or 8" drop tube.
Cheers.
The tube needs to be perfectly vertical, and the inside diameter needs to be smaller than the cartridge neck diameter. You won't get any increase in velocity of kernels impacting in the case if they're running down the side of a 16" tube. If the tube is larger diameter than neck diameter and has a reducer at the end, you might as well pour through a short drop tube. Check out the black powder guys drop tubes.
Not to deviate too much from my original post; I made my 16" drop tube out of 1/4" ID clear polycarbonate. My previous comment was in regards to using it on a 6 Dasher case. Not smaller than neck diameter but close. It does work more on the 338 cases but then again, those cases have 3 times the volume than the Dasher!
I had an old electric toothbrush around somewhere to make a shake table out of settle the powder but I lost it...or the wife threw it away
I had an old electric toothbrush around somewhere to make a shake table out of settle the powder but I lost it...or the wife threw it away
I'd blame the wife. That's what I do when I can't find something...Not to deviate too much from my original post; I made my 16" drop tube out of 1/4" ID clear polycarbonate. My previous comment was in regards to using it on a 6 Dasher case. Not smaller than neck diameter but close. It does work more on the 338 cases but then again, those cases have 3 times the volume than the Dasher!
I had an old electric toothbrush around somewhere to make a shake table out of settle the powder but I lost it...or the wife threw it away
Bob Wright
Well-Known Member
I found I had really bad donuts forming on my 280AI. It happened after first firing of new brass. It also showed on once fired factory Nosler ammo that I used for reloading later.
I noticed at the bottom of the seating stroke, the bullet would "hang" and become stiffer.
K&M neck ream and turn fixed it.
Donuts form on AI type cartridges and other wildcats at times.
It's worth checking for, during your investigation.
I thought it was cold weld....
Pressures were off the charts.
I noticed at the bottom of the seating stroke, the bullet would "hang" and become stiffer.
K&M neck ream and turn fixed it.
Donuts form on AI type cartridges and other wildcats at times.
It's worth checking for, during your investigation.
I thought it was cold weld....
Pressures were off the charts.
Hmm, I though bushing dies were supposed to prevent doughnuts? Hence I never thought to look. I'll check it out but if it was there, wouldn't it have an effect on the rounds I loaded and fired the next day, not just the ones that sat on the shelf?
Nope, bushing dies, without the use of the expander ball create doughnuts.
I still use a FL bushing die but do final expanding with an expanded mandrel.
Bob Wright
Well-Known Member
Primarily, wildcats and Ackley chambers are susceptible to donuts. But, it could show up depending on how they are formed in resizing. I tried using an expander ball to move it out to the neck o.d. then neck turn. Fail.
Bought a K&M neck ream/turn and that worked. But it's something I will have to monitor on my AI chamber. Yours is just "check and eliminate" that possibility in your reloading issue. Some guys here have SAUM donuts.
Bought a K&M neck ream/turn and that worked. But it's something I will have to monitor on my AI chamber. Yours is just "check and eliminate" that possibility in your reloading issue. Some guys here have SAUM donuts.
