Difficulty Retracting Bolt

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by .308ltr, Feb 10, 2011.

  1. .308ltr

    .308ltr Well-Known Member

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    Hi All,

    I recently purchased a Remy 700 in .300 Win Mag (used). Inspected it, Cleaned it thoroughly, mounted a scope and hit the range with factory ammo. After firing, the bolt will lift normally (easily) but the bolt won't retract. I have to beat on the bolt handle with the palm of my hand to extract the fired case. I did not see any obvious marks on the brass however the primer appeared very slightly flattened. I checked the bolt and could not find any marks. Rifle shot under an inch with the factory ammo so i am pleased about that but the stuck bolt really bothers me. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
     
  2. TnTom

    TnTom Well-Known Member

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    I'd suggest you check the head space with go no/go gauges and rule out excessive head spacing.
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2011

  3. Coyboy

    Coyboy Well-Known Member

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    Does the bolt handle lift with little resistance and then not draw straight back on fired case?


    look at the gap between the bolt handle and the bolt handle cut out in the reciever. If the handle is closer to the back end of the reciever cut out, then you may be lacking primary extraction.

    Normally we want the bolt handle as far forward in the cut out as possible with maybe a .005-.010 gap the bigger the gap the less the bolt handle and reciever cam contact is made. The cam causes the leverage to "pop" the case lose from the chamber.

    If that is the problem I would have a ptg handle tigged on and timed for maximum extraction.
     
  4. .308ltr

    .308ltr Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for responding. I took the rifle to a local smith who is going to clean, gauge and bore scope it to try and identify the problem. The bolt lifts normally ( easily) then won't retract unless force is applied. I'll let you know what the smith finds if anything. I'm hoping he finds something silly that I overlooked like a base or action screw contacting the bolt but that might be wishful thinking. Thank goodness Kirby is finishing up a 300 WSM for me soon.

    Thanks again....if you can think of anything alse please let me know

    Brian
     
  5. bigngreen

    bigngreen Well-Known Member

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    I looked at a used Rem the other day to see if I could find a downer and I found one that looked good till I checked how much contact it was getting on the primary extraction cam and there was zippo, bolt was touching at the back also so I pulled it and you could see where someone got over zealous with the lug lapping, you could see the taper in the back of the lugs! If some is good more is better kinda deal, I passed on that one!!:D
     
  6. .308ltr

    .308ltr Well-Known Member

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    Hi all, Heard back from the Smith. Bad news. The chamber had several issues that were bad enough that a re-barrel is needed. Buyer beware. LOL. On to up side a 26 inch stainless Hart match grade barrel and having the action tried up will be a good thing. Thanks again for the responses

    Brian
     
  7. TnTom

    TnTom Well-Known Member

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    what was the finding?
     
  8. .308ltr

    .308ltr Well-Known Member

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    Bad burrs in the belt area and pitting in the shoulder area of the chamber. Failed the No Go gauge. Possibly due to the burrs but the smith couldn't be sure. He offered to try and polish the chamber but I don't think I would ever feel comfortable behind the bolt knowing what he found so I opted for the re-barrel. Thanks for all the responses
     
  9. Rustystud

    Rustystud Well-Known Member

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    Was this rifle a factory rifle or had it be rebarreled?

    If it is a factory barrel I would send it back to Remington.

    If it is a rebarrel the first initial and last name of the smith who rebarreled it

    should be found on the cylinder section of the barrel.

    I would locate him and request he fix it. If he refuses to get it right then tell the rest of the world so we can avoid using his services.

    If he is dead or out of business you might be sol.

    Nat Lambeth
     
  10. .308ltr

    .308ltr Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Nat,

    I bought the rifle used online from a LRH member. It is a factory barrel and I don't really know the full history of the rifle so to be on the safe side I think a re-barrel is in order. I really appreciate all the responses to my problem. Ill post again later when the rifle is rebarreled and trued up to let you know how she shoots

    Brian
     
  11. ICANHITHIMMAN

    ICANHITHIMMAN Well-Known Member

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    Same thing happened to a freind of mine on here. Got the rifle from another guy here and it was all messed up. I dont buy from anyone who does not contrubuite from the forum
     
  12. Rustystud

    Rustystud Well-Known Member

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    Measure the gap between the closed bolt and the action. The front side of the bolt handle and the back of the action (near the top). There should be about .010 and .015 gap. If it is more than that you are loosing primary extraction.
    Nat Lambeth
     
  13. Coyboy

    Coyboy Well-Known Member

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    Two different owners of a rifle and how many rounds thru the thing and all of a sudden you blame the guy who barrels it? I've seen owners of rifles ruin chambers because of a case head seperation and they dig the brass out with god knows what, gouged and scratched to $hit.

    I've pulled apart a dozen rifles from different smiths. Some had owner bugars and some had smith bugars. I wouldn't flame any of those smiths for an isolated incedent on the net.
     
  14. Rustystud

    Rustystud Well-Known Member

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    I will agree not enough facts are known. But I see alot of crap coming out of the Big Green Box folks and even more from wantabe smiths.

    Nat Lambeth