7Rumloader
Well-Known Member
It's truely great in my rigs factory tube and all. My new Lilja should be a dream to clean when it gets here! What was the first best GG??
Coppermelt, what am I doing wrong?
- Thread starter Boman
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
goodgrouper,
I understand where your coming from. I was a little testy yesterday too.. sorry. Thanks for the offer but if you think it will work. I'll just go to a med supply store or pharmacy and get a sterilized dropper? As long as plastic is ok?
I think I'll shoot the rifle again soon and give her a try again. I really want the stuff to work. If it doesn't I'll be very dissappointed..
Thanks to everyone that has helped out. I'll give you an update after I shoot it next.
I understand where your coming from. I was a little testy yesterday too.. sorry. Thanks for the offer but if you think it will work. I'll just go to a med supply store or pharmacy and get a sterilized dropper? As long as plastic is ok?
I think I'll shoot the rifle again soon and give her a try again. I really want the stuff to work. If it doesn't I'll be very dissappointed..
Thanks to everyone that has helped out. I'll give you an update after I shoot it next.
kac1345
Well-Known Member
GoodGrouper...I did shoot my Rifle and cleaned with CopperMelt.. but as stated I tried it out first on what I considered a clean bore..and it did nothing, Now when I went to the range I fired 40-50 rounds out of my .308 then cleaned with CopperMelt.. it took me longer to monkey around with wraping patches and stuff than just cleaning the old fashion way..My cleaning regimenet is very simple first I run a wet patch of Shooters choice through then I brush, next dry bore, then flush with denatured alcohole, next go to sweets ...it only takes 3-4 patches of sweets , then dry and flush one more time with Alcohole. this all takes about 5 min after I'm done not even CopperMelt can find copper in my bore. The CopperMelt makes for a great decoration on for my loading bench..other than that I found it to be useless..atleast for me...I know the stuff works I'm not disputing that but wraping patches smaller brushes...making sure you have the right core on your brushes and Not contaminating the stuff is just too much for me. Who knows maybe I'll make a Christmas ornimate out of the CopperMelt Bottle /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Nomosendero
Well-Known Member
Goodgrouper, I also can attest to the quality of Final Finish. I have a Sendero 25-06 that from the factory had a
reasonably accurate barrel but fouled badly,not the first
time that this happened with a Sendero. When I would clean
the bore I would have a sack of patches. After I treated the
bore my group size reduced from 7/8" to 1/2" & the bore
would clean with a fraction of the patches.
reasonably accurate barrel but fouled badly,not the first
time that this happened with a Sendero. When I would clean
the bore I would have a sack of patches. After I treated the
bore my group size reduced from 7/8" to 1/2" & the bore
would clean with a fraction of the patches.
goodgrouper
Well-Known Member
If wrapping patches is too difficult for you, and you consider dealing with multiple bronze brushes and multiple jags and flushing solutions before and after the stinky ammonia as simple, then I must be all bassackwards!
Jeez man, come on.
Jeez man, come on.
goodgrouper
Well-Known Member
Yes, I really testify to the smoothing properties of Final Finish. I just got done with load development on a friends factory 300 win mag that took 9 patches of coppermelt to come clean before FF, now it takes 3! Great stuff-especially for a factory barrel. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
kac1345
Well-Known Member
lol Goodgrouper I was just funnin ya about the patches ...I know my way takes longer...and no wrapping patches is no big deal...I don't know man I guess I'm just more comfortable using my old fasion way. The one thing that I am just not sure about the coppermelt is how easy is it to actually contaminate it? I mean I"m not touching dirty patches with the droper or anything..and what ever is un-used i my dropper I get rid of it ...I do not dump it back in the bottle. Maybe I'm just being to carefull? Dunno. The one Rifle that I would really like to try it on is my .223 Ackley but I really don't want to buy a new Rod in .17cal so thats out for now. Like I said before there is no doubt the stuff works..I guess what turned me off is the contaminating part.
LongRange Demon TacKac,
A few of your concerns are unfounded,you dont need to use a whimpy 17cal rod just use a normal 22cal rod and sand down a 22cal brush (nylon ) so that a patch is not too tight in the bore. as for contamination it is a non-issue as long as you dont touch any thing with the tip of the dropper , if you are throwing the excess away ,you are needlessly wasting it. bottom line is if you give it an honest try and try and do the procedure correctly it is the best product on the market (if you can leave preconcieved bias's behind you)
B
A few of your concerns are unfounded,you dont need to use a whimpy 17cal rod just use a normal 22cal rod and sand down a 22cal brush (nylon ) so that a patch is not too tight in the bore. as for contamination it is a non-issue as long as you dont touch any thing with the tip of the dropper , if you are throwing the excess away ,you are needlessly wasting it. bottom line is if you give it an honest try and try and do the procedure correctly it is the best product on the market (if you can leave preconcieved bias's behind you)
B
gonehuntingagain
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
The one Rifle that I would really like to try it on is my .223 Ackley but I really don't want to buy a new Rod in .17cal so thats out for now.
[/ QUOTE ]
Take a nylon 22 cal brush, chuck it up in your drill and run it against some sandpaper or preferably a grinder to make it smaller. both 4ked and I did this and the resized brush works well. Just be careful not to grind it down too far.
As for the coppermelt's effectiveness, I cleaned my Dad's 338WM with it because everything else I tried just polished the copper - you could clearly see it at the end of the barrel. The first patch looked like something out of the back end of a baby, then the next 5 or so patches with coppermelt were NAVY BLUE!!! After 25 patches (20 strokes each patch) it was clean.
The one Rifle that I would really like to try it on is my .223 Ackley but I really don't want to buy a new Rod in .17cal so thats out for now.
[/ QUOTE ]
Take a nylon 22 cal brush, chuck it up in your drill and run it against some sandpaper or preferably a grinder to make it smaller. both 4ked and I did this and the resized brush works well. Just be careful not to grind it down too far.
As for the coppermelt's effectiveness, I cleaned my Dad's 338WM with it because everything else I tried just polished the copper - you could clearly see it at the end of the barrel. The first patch looked like something out of the back end of a baby, then the next 5 or so patches with coppermelt were NAVY BLUE!!! After 25 patches (20 strokes each patch) it was clean.
kac1345
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys I will do that...I will give it a try again...so your saying if I have any left in my dropper I can go ahead and squirt it back in the bottle?...I just did not want to kill the enzimes in the bottle....I'm not hacking on the stuff just trying to figure out how delicate the stuff is...my bottle really didn't come with much instructions.
Thanks brian b for the tip on the grinding the jag down.
Thanks brian b for the tip on the grinding the jag down.
ss7mm
Well-Known Member
Cleaned with Coppermelt after 30 rounds. I use a 6mm nylon brush for my 7mm bore. One thing I've found is that some of the 6mm brushes are different sizes by a little, and you may need to reduce them as needed.
One thing is that I only use about 5 or 6 strokes on the first patch. There's something about knowing how dirty the first will be that won't allow me to use 15 strokes on the first patch.
Sometimes if I've fired more than I should without cleaning I will run a patch wet with Coppermelt on a jag through and let it set for a couple of minutes and then do the wrapped patch routine. After that it only takes a few minutes and you're done.
One thing is that I only use about 5 or 6 strokes on the first patch. There's something about knowing how dirty the first will be that won't allow me to use 15 strokes on the first patch.
Sometimes if I've fired more than I should without cleaning I will run a patch wet with Coppermelt on a jag through and let it set for a couple of minutes and then do the wrapped patch routine. After that it only takes a few minutes and you're done.
lead lobber
Member
Goodgrouper,
How tight is too tight? I am using a 22 cal brush on my six ackley and it is snug. I tried a 6.5 brush on my 308 and it was easy to push back and forth, but both seemed too work. Which is better? One caliber smaller or two? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
How tight is too tight? I am using a 22 cal brush on my six ackley and it is snug. I tried a 6.5 brush on my 308 and it was easy to push back and forth, but both seemed too work. Which is better? One caliber smaller or two? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
goodgrouper
Well-Known Member
A 22 caliber brush needs to be ground down a bit to clean a 6mm. Or you can use a 17 caliber rod and brush and it works fine but is a little hoaky.
Generally, you want to go down 3 brush sizes from your bore size (not counting the weird Euro and forgotten calibers) so that you can run the patch in and out of your bore up to 40 strokes without it shredding the patch. It should "sing" when it is the right tightness while you run it down the bore.
Generally, you want to go down 3 brush sizes from your bore size (not counting the weird Euro and forgotten calibers) so that you can run the patch in and out of your bore up to 40 strokes without it shredding the patch. It should "sing" when it is the right tightness while you run it down the bore.
