Cheek weld and scope height

If you don't want drill/mill and install a proper cheek weld gizmo you can use other parts of your face as a consistent reference point. It is does tend to induce muscle hold control tho. Using your chin, or jaw etc is not uncommon. ME, I just install a solid and functional cheek riser as I usually don't buy and turn rifles often. I usually build or buy a rifle I plan to keep and I set it up for me. LOP and cheek rest are basic fundamentals that are user specific and paramount for long range repeatable precision.
 
One of my rifles I can't get consistent cheek weld and I'm realizing the scope seems a bit high. Pull gun up (empty and pointed in a safe direction) mount stock with eyes closed open eyes and I'm lower than the scope.

I'm using a picatinny rail and nightforce medium rings 4screw and the scope is an x5i so 50mm. The bell of the scope isn't all that high off the barrel, maybe 1/4" maybe a tad more. I feel like I need to come down that much to get a good sight picture.

I don't know that the nightforce low rings will get me enough.
I guess my options are to get a stock pad to raise my head or try a different ring. I had some talleys on the rifle but they came loose on me (300 rum) and I got weird about trusting them.
Any suggestions?

thanks
Jmack

Everyone has had good suggestions.
Are you shooting this rifle primarily from the prone position or from the sitting position (bench and or tri-pod)?
Adding to what others have already said you can get consistent eye centered on your optic everytime, by just slightly pulling back, until you see the very beginning of a black ring on the out side of you FOV. If, you keep that centered, then even if your parallax is slightly off, your shots will be spot on, since you are perfectly centered on each shot.
What I use to shoot distance with the majority of time, does not have a buttstock.
Still, if possible, I would bring the scope down and I would get a raised cheek piece/pad.
 
Everyone has had good suggestions.
Are you shooting this rifle primarily from the prone position or from the sitting position (bench and or tri-pod)?
Adding to what others have already said you can get consistent eye centered on your optic everytime, by just slightly pulling back, until you see the very beginning of a black ring on the out side of you FOV. If, you keep that centered, then even if your parallax is slightly off, your shots will be spot on, since you are perfectly centered on each shot.
What I use to shoot distance with the majority of time, does not have a buttstock.
Still, if possible, I would bring the scope down and I would get a raised cheek piece/pad.
Use this rifle for hunting so it's being shot from all sorts of field positions. I'll probably modify the stock. I hate to give up the reliability of the rail and ring setup that's currently on it. I also really like the scope.
 
Use this rifle for hunting so it's being shot from all sorts of field positions. I'll probably modify the stock. I hate to give up the reliability of the rail and ring setup that's currently on it. I also really like the scope.
Sounds like you have it figured out. Let us know what kind of stock modification you come up with. Your scope is a good one for sure-I like mine.
 
With my scope I HAD to use high rings, so that meant raising the cheek pad to get a good cheekweld. As a further "bonus" is I am much more comfortable with my head a bit higher and my neck less "scrunched."
 
Use this rifle for hunting so it's being shot from all sorts of field positions. I'll probably modify the stock. I hate to give up the reliability of the rail and ring setup that's currently on it. I also really like the scope.
I like karsten for a easy quick solution. There are others who make a similar product. I also really like KMW logger head risers but they are very involved to install. Top is a KMW install and bottom is a karsten.

IMG_0310 (1).JPG



300prc.jpg
 
With my scope I HAD to use high rings, so that meant raising the cheek pad to get a good cheekweld. As a further "bonus" is I am much more comfortable with my head a bit higher and my neck less "scrunched."
I agree. Gets your head in an upright more natural position
 
FYI. I use a press and drill the small hole through both sides. I use the small hole for the guide to drill the larger hole. You can do it free it hand if you feel comfortable with a drill. It's a pretty basic gig tho. I've done a couple dozen karsten installs. Most go on without paint but when I'm feeling fancy I cerakote them. I use a texture base, paint, clear coate. Turns out bad@$$ in my opinion. Other view points may differ..... ha ha
 
I also have been frustrated trying to get the correct cheek weld with a larger objective. If you do try to lower the scope height it can be a real pain finding the right scope ring. Ordering what you think might work can get expensive. If you have a local gunshop they should be able to help you.

While I can see the usefulness of a picatinny rail for proper fore and aft placement, they often add the height for a poor cheek weld. IMO, go with a solid mounting system without a rail. My 300 RUM has a 50mm on a model 70. I used the double dovetail Leupold base and rings. The cheek weld is perfect.

If you cannot get satisfaction then you will have to go with a cheek riser or perhaps a stock pack like this one

I have been tempted to add my own material to the cheek piece. Roughing up the area and adding some fiberglass mat and resin to build up the area then sanding down to get the height required for the correct cheek weld is a possibility.

Recently I acquired a Nightforce with a 56 mm objective. It just so happened that the rifle also needed a better stock. I ordered the Stocky's M50 which has an interchangeable cheek piece. Adding the high insert made a perfect cheek weld!


Curious to know where to look into finding these ?
 
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