Bushing die (worth it for the non-long range, non-bulk shooter)?

Bigeclipse

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I have been reading about bushing dies and im just not sure it makes sense for me to buy them. I will be reloading for my 6.5prc rifle using either barnes TTSX or hammer bullets and ADG brass which are already expensive. This is for a dedicated whitetail hunting rig which will never see more than 400 yards and will not see a ton of shooting either so I don't need my brass to last 6+ times each firing. I will be buying 100 pieces of brass. I will once fire the brass with cheap bullets and then I will do a quick load work up with the hammers or barnes. As soon as I hit a stable/consistent sub 1 MOA I am calling it good and loading all 100 which will likely last me a decade or two or until I get bored and buy another rifle lol. Is it really worth it for me to get a bushing die and competition seater die or should I just get a regular Redding die set? A regular die set is like 75$ while the bushing/sizer die set with bushings will be 170-200$. Thanks!
 
Bushing dies work best with tight neck chambers and neck turned brass. Below they are using honed Forster full length "non-bushing" dies and have less neck runout.

Weekly Gear Update - 036 Forster Honed Dies
 
Bushing dies work best with tight neck chambers and neck turned brass. Below they are using honed Forster full length "non-bushing" dies and have less neck runout.

Weekly Gear Update - 036 Forster Honed Dies

Ok if not getting a Forster due what would be the next best?
 
Neck tension is a tuning tool that's where bushing dies shine.
I dont run any tight neck chambers on any of my 15+ rifles and 12 probably have bushing dies.
Over working your necks are the biggest culprit when pulling the expander through your necks along with no lube.
I turn necks on some of my rifles because I choose to and some I dont.
 
I haven't invested in bushing dies and I don't feel like I'm handicapped by my dies at all. I have not had a problem with obtaining sub 1/2 MOA groups and great brass life. Yes the bushing dies are technically better, but I don't see them gaining much more than what I have now. Just my opinion
 
I'm on the fence on this one. I guess it's cause I consider 400 yards kinda a long way. I have reading bushing dies for all my 6.5s, but use regular RCBS dies for everything else. I look at it this way - Lets say you're MOA at 100 with the PRC. That's 1/2 the diameter of the kill zone on a whitetail at 400 yards. If controlling your neck tension better gets your ES down and you can get that down to only deviating 1/4 to 1/3 the diameter of the kill zone at 400, I'm inclined to say it's worth it.
 
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I'd get fl dies and spend the rest on a Sinclair mandrel die and mandrel.

Might as well just order a Lee collet die.

My bushing dies sit on the shelf.

I have Forester honed dies, some I've honed myself and standard RCBS sets. They all have their place. After I put the concentricity gauge away My life got more simple. Don't overthink it.
 
If cost is a concern then I would go with a Redding body die and a Lee collet die set. Reason I say a Lee collet die set is ,I feel , that the Lee DL seater that comes with the set is a very good standard seater die. JMO
 
Might as well just order a Lee collet die.

My bushing dies sit on the shelf.

I have Forester honed dies, some I've honed myself and standard RCBS sets. They all have their place. After I put the concentricity gauge away My life got more simple. Don't overthink it.
Or buy a mandrel so he can use it for any 6.5 he might reload for.
 
Full length dies without bushings are fine for mid range hunting ammo and you will be happy. But if you get bit by the long range bug you might want to figure out what size neck your going to do and have it honed to the correct dia. This will help keep necks from splitting. So does annealing. I believe that a honed die will give straiter ammo. The seating die that normally comes with a fl are not great. Yes we all have made great ammo with the 20 dollar dies. I personally use bushing dies. And I never neck size brass. I have one Lee collet die from 1990 and it worked ok. Just no sense to neck size anything.
Shep
 
Prolly not. If you are getting good enough accuracy and consistency then don't fret over it. I use bushing dies and a Sinclair mandrel to reduce run out to sub .002 thou. I also use this method to help reduce neck tension related sd/es. A lot of the issue discussed in precision and precision reloading don't really show up sub 500 unless you are trying to shoot bug holes at 500. If you are moa of deer or yote, you get away with a lot as long as the rifle is consistent.

So in the end, for the range you describe, I wouldn't go with 200.00 dies if your wallet doesn't want to.
 
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