Barrel Crown

I have a Russian .22LR Position rifle with a crown that clearly shows the saw blade marks. The lands are beveled at the muzzle, but that doesn't extend past the bore diameter.
 
Perpendicularity and concentricity are what is most important no matter what the configuration as far as accuracy goes. Everything else is just preference.
 
I assume when you say "recessed" crown you mean a typical factory crown that is rounded over. I've had a couple of rifles that didn't shoot well until I put an 11 degree target crown on them. I don't think the type of crown was an issue, but that the crown was not concentric. I don't care for the recessed crowns. I don't think they protect the end of the barrel any better than a target crown. Additionally, they make it more difficult to assess damage to the crown so that the problem can be addressed.
 
I assume when you say "recessed" crown you mean a typical factory crown that is rounded over. I've had a couple of rifles that didn't shoot well until I put an 11 degree target crown on them. I don't think the type of crown was an issue, but that the crown was not concentric. I don't care for the recessed crowns. I don't think they protect the end of the barrel any better than a target crown. Additionally, they make it more difficult to assess damage to the crown so that the problem can be addressed.
See the pictures in Post #3.
 
I've always wondered where 11° came from. Why not 10° or 12°? Why is 11° such a magical number and who came up with that?
Probably like a lot of other random things in this world. Someone did it once, it worked well and they told everyone else that it was better and everyone else believed them.
 
IIRC it was Red Cornelison that first popularized or used it. Supposedly high speed video of expelled gas angle they used to calculate it.

I have no idea the validaty of this.

I have read posts by numerous smiths/shooters tried various angles and properly executed saw no difference. It's what I would expect.

I would say from a accuracy standpoint the one easiest to do right which would be 90° flat muzzle. Hard to get wrong.
 
Five nice pretty points over the lands.
crown.jpg
 
Really like the 2 previous pics of the muzzle end. In the past after I did a muzzle crown job I would take white out and put it on the end of the muzzle and then fire it and you can clearly see the points. Let you know if you did a good job or not pretty quickly
 
Yep...Recessed crown is my choice!
Also like the slight bevel on outer edge of barrel as seen on the pics above.
Less chance of being damaged... which as you all know will affect bullet flight.

Lots of 11 degree crowns are done and skip the outer bevel because its cheaper, faster and easier to do!

With that said... I have 11's that shoot great as well.
 
I remember when I was about 5 or 6 years old, I went into a closet on the second floor of my grandmother's house. I found several rifles and remembering that they were a "Rust-Brown" Color and the muzzle end was FLAT with the HOLE having several distinctly square "LANDS & GROVES" in the HOLE. I was young then, but my father had me shooting for a few years and the first thing he taught me was SAFETY then CLEANING! So I remember what components of a firearm looked like. These rifles had to be from the late 1800s or early 1900s. I think that the "Groves" may have been cut deeper on earlier barrels.
I just received a new "Shooting Illustrated" Magazine from the NRA. See the new Semi Auto Pistols with Match Heavy Barrels and they are Degree Crowned. I have been collecting and "renovating" pistols for many years - the Crowns go from Deep Recessed on Wheel Revolvers - most older pistols to Target Recessed to Degree Crowns for most Match (thick) barrels. A lot I think has to do with "looks" and the thickness of the barrel.
Wheel guns have an exposed barrel to having damage to the Lands & Groves especially when holstering. Semi Autos have the Slide to extend and help protecting the Lands & Groves.
I just love machining firearms!!!
 

Recent Posts

Top