Any recommended gun safes? Liberty Revere 72 vs Cannon Wide Body 64??

fnlights

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Does anyone have a recommendation on a quality gun safe? I would like to keep it at or below $1,500 and have about 60 minutes of fire protection.

I was looking at a Liberty Revere 72 on the Tractor Supply website, but the reviews are not the greatest. They claim the metal on the door is so thin it will flex when opened and someone could get in with a crowbar (no idea if this is true or not). I was hoping someone on here would have that safe and could confirm? I am also considering the Cannon 64 gun Wide Body - again, about the same reviews as the Liberty (some great, some bad).

I was originally going to spend the extra $100 for the Liberty because it was American made, but I believe this Revere model is not? So at this point, I will consider all brands and all options - I would also like to keep it at a minimum of 48 guns.
 
Watch a few you tube videos. I will tell you none of the lower end safes provide the protection or fire length they claim. I have a liberty and a old none fire Browning. The browning is 3 times the thickness with a real plate door and frame. Also thick panels.
A axe or angle grinder can cut through my liberty sidewalls like it's nothing. Crooks can peel a safe faster than they can slide it and flip it into a truck. Bolt it down!!!
Edit. Mine are old school dials. Wish I would have gotten electronic on my liberty.
 
Watch a few you tube videos. I will tell you none of the lower end safes provide the protection or fire length they claim. I have a liberty and a old none fire Browning. The browning is 3 times the thickness with a real plate door and frame. Also thick panels.
A axe or angle grinder can cut through my liberty sidewalls like it's nothing. Crooks can peel a safe faster than they can slide it and flip it into a truck. Bolt it down!!!
Edit. Mine are old school dials. Wish I would have gotten electronic on my liberty.
Definitely will go watch some YouTube videos. The issue being, I feel like if someone wanted in most safes they would be able to get in.

I would also agree that the build quality on the newer safes seemed to have declined. My dad has a 10-15 year old 48 gun Cannon and the new version of his is equivalent to the 64 gun Wide Body Cannon - so they also seemed to have significantly decreased the interior size of them while increasing the price lol.
 
I had a Browning built to order. Plenty of options and you can choose color schemes, trim, lighting, silk screened images, etc. The safe is solid, highly rated for fire protection and a work of art.

By once and cry once.

And make sure that you can actually get the safe where you want it before you have it delivered. My first Browning was determined to be too big & heavy to actually get it down the stairs "safely". It would have fit by a fraction of an inch and the delivery guys said the risk of someone getting hurt was HIGH. Another consideration: a good safe is at least 1,000lbs "empty". The floor needs to be able to accommodate the excessive weight on a small footprint. Exactly how many floor joists will the safe be sitting on? Floors can sag over time.
 
I had a Browning built to order. Plenty of options and you can choose color schemes, trim, lighting, silk screened images, etc. The safe is solid, highly rated for fire protection and a work of art.

By once and cry once.

And make sure that you can actually get the safe where you want it before you have it delivered. My first Browning was determined to be too big & heavy to actually get it down the stairs "safely". It would have fit by a fraction of an inch and the delivery guys said the risk of someone getting hurt was HIGH. Another consideration: a good safe is at least 1,000lbs "empty". The floor needs to be able to accommodate the excessive weight on a small footprint. Exactly how many floor joists will the safe be sitting on? Floors can sag over time.
Haven't gotten to check out any of the Browning safes, but have heard good things about them.

Safe will be sitting in the basement on a concrete floor - the basement has ground access, so stairs will not be a problem.
 
I am always on the lookout for deals on safes. I've run out of capacity in my current one. Now that is a crises. Finding a quality safe in your price range will be difficult but not impossible. I found a decent quality safe on sale many years ago that was in your range. It was at a Sam's Club and had a some finish issues (scratches) on one side. I got it for under $1k. Retailed for over $2500. Keep your eyes peeled for these types of deals.
 
Here is about all I can help you with about safe's. I always thought those with exposed hinges would be easier to break in to. Bought one with internal hinges (Cannon). Then saw a video of just how easily they are broken into. Get one with exposed hinges. Get one that is exactly twice the size you think you need. If any doubt, get one even bigger. Also, look inside at how it is configured. If you have any shotguns or long barreled rifles they may only fit on the outside of each row without removing a shelf. I have one that is that way and do not like it.
 
I am always on the lookout for deals on safes. I've run out of capacity in my current one. Now that is a crises. Finding a quality safe in your price range will be difficult but not impossible. I found a decent quality safe on sale many years ago that was in your range. It was at a Sam's Club and had a some finish issues (scratches) on one side. I got it for under $1k. Retailed for over $2500. Keep your eyes peeled for these types of deals.
Did not even realized Sam's Club carried gun safes lol, I do not think my local one does, but I will have to double check on that
 
Here is about all I can help you with about safe's. I always thought those with exposed hinges would be easier to break in to. Bought one with internal hinges (Cannon). Then saw a video of just how easily they are broken into. Get one with exposed hinges. Get one that is exactly twice the size you think you need. If any doubt, get one even bigger. Also, look inside at how it is configured. If you have any shotguns or long barreled rifles they may only fit on the outside of each row without removing a shelf. I have one that is that way and do not like it.
Yeah that is what I am thinking - hence the 64 gun and the 72. Which realistically won't hold anywhere near that with scoped rifles.

I will have to watch that video on the exposed vs internal hinges.

Winchester Safes seem to have decent reviews - Another local store has a Sports Afield - no idea about those either, I will have to stop in and check that one out
 
Haven't gotten to check out any of the Browning safes, but have heard good things about them.

Safe will be sitting in the basement on a concrete floor - the basement has ground access, so stairs will not be a problem.

Sounds good. My Browning is in the basement also and it sits on a ceramic tile covered concrete floor. As a precaution; I put the safe on two 4"x4" pieces of PT lumber. This could help if there is a small water leak somewhere and the floor gets wet. A little air under the safe can't be a bad thing.
 
Another consideration - There is more weight in the safe door than anywhere else. It's helpful if the door can easily be removed to facilitate moving the safe up or down stairs, or if the fit around corners is particularly tight.

I have a Diebold safe for other valuables. It has a standard high-end tumbler. My wife can open it with ease. For the life of me, I can't open the darn thing. Even with her looking over my shoulder to confirm that I am rotating the dial correctly it doesn't open. :rolleyes: My Browning has a digital electronic lock with a programable combination for that reason. LOL
 
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Did not even realized Sam's Club carried gun safes lol, I do not think my local one does, but I will have to double check on that
My wife bought one for me on a Black Friday sale @ Tractor Supply of all places. She waited outside before daylight in the rain for hours to get one of two they had in stock. Guess that might be one of the reasons we are still married after all these years.
 
The safes you get a big box store aren't the best in terms of security. They are all about the same - thinner metal than before and thicker drywall to make them look beefier and to add to their fire retardant numbers.

Are they bad? Not necessarily, I have a field and stream from Dicks from about 15 years ago. It's good enough for what I want. Mostly to comply with storage laws and to keep kids/un-educated people away from them. I have several layers to my security though, so theft isn't my primary goal.

So you need to ask yourself, what is really the most important and then be prepared to pay accordingly.

Honestly, check out craigslist and facebook market place. Plenty of businesses that give away safes for free or pennies on the dollar because they don't want to move them.

For my second safe, I worked with a local shop that specializes in safes. They cost more, but I'd rather support a local business and have something that truly meets my needs. They were experts at delivering it safely, right where I wanted it and do bolt down installations too.

As for combo vs electronic. I'll go combo dial EVERY single time. In fact, I gave up on the cheaper safes because they have almost all switched to electronic locks. You used to be able to switch them out for a good S&G dial, but that's getting to me more rare. I never want to deal with a battery dieing when I need in. And I've known several people who have had their e-locks fail on them.

I used to be in the get a giant safe - 2x or 3x what you need right now. But, I'm now in the camp of get a couple of medium safes. If someone does decide to break in, now they have to deal with more than one safe. It also allows me to organize better.

If I do need to move it, then I can move each one with help from friends. A giant safe would need movers every time you wanted to move it.
 
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